An evening with friends at Blue Hill

It's fun to visit Blue Hill every few months to see how the seasonal changes in produce are reflected in their tasting menus, and it's particularly fun to do it with food-loving friends who've never had the full-on Blue Hill experience. It's even more fun to spend part of the day scouring the extensive wine list and putting together an eclectic sequence of wines. The champagne I had originally chosen was no longer available, but the somm found a more-than-adequate replacement.

The meal and service was, as always, exceptional. Standouts for me included the chestnut puree, the "farm tacos" with scallops, the sweet potato crisps, and a final savory course of venison that was just superlative; I don't know if it's possible to improve on that meat. And, as always, the whole-grain bread and warm farm ricotta: it may sound a bit like a throwaway course, but there is a reason this is always part of the tasting menu. How about the wines?

• 2010 Jérôme Prévost Champagne La Closerie Extra Brut Les Béguines 93 Points

  France, Champagne

  Pale gold in the glass with a very slight pinkish tint. On the nose, a mix of apples and yeast. On the palate, full-bodied with apples transitioning to lemons, and a crisp, clean finish. A nice champagne to pair with a range of bite-size courses.

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• 2012 Aubert Chardonnay UV-SL Vineyard 94 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

  We had this a few months ago, and I enjoyed it so much I wanted to try it again, and nothing has changed; slightly cloudy appearance in the glass, a very elegant hybrid of floral and citric notes, and a follow-through on the palate of those same notes, coupled with a pleasant creamy texture. No discernible oak whatsoever. This is a fine Chardonnay.

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• 1982 The Eyrie Vineyards Pinot Noir South Block Reserve 94 Points

  USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley

  In the glass, auburn at the rim, shading to dark maroon at the core; this wine looks older, but not 30 years older. On the nose, crushed cherries and dried apricots. On the palate, cherries and a bit of brown sugar on the attack, shifting to more citric acidity coupled with some sour (but not tart) apple on a medium-long finish. The fruit is still quite lively; I don't see this falling apart any time soon. This was a special experience.

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• 2000 Château Beausejour (Duffau Lagarrosse) 92 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

  This was decanted for an hour, which wasn't quite enough: three might have been about right. In the glass, no signs of age; dark, deep, purplish red. On the somewhat muted nose, crushed currants and suggestions of cedar. On the palate, currants, cassis, graphite, and secondary notes of coffee and cocoa, coupled with a rich mouth-filling texture and a long finish. It would be nice to see where this is in another five years.

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• 2005 Domaine Huet Vouvray Cuvée Constance 95 Points

  France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray

  In an evening of interesting wines and vintages, this was perhaps the most interesting of the bunch. In the glass, pale-to-medium orange-gold. On the nose, a mix of honeysuckle, anise, and tarragon; almost more like vermouth than a dessert wine. The palate, however, is another story. Silky and unctuous texture, with cream, pears, lychee, mango, and marzipan all making appearances, as part of a constantly shifting flavor profile. A really engaging and high quality wine.

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You know you've had a good time when you look at your watch, thinking you've been at it for four hours, and realize you've been at it for nearly six hours! Thank goodness for flexible babysitters...