EWS -- Cote Rotie Tasting

All wines were tasted non-blind. As always, it is very difficult to form a lasting impression from just a small pour. Having re-tasted some of the wines after the event, it was easy to fill in the nuances missed originally. In general, most of the wines were simply excellent -- despite their unique profiles, I would be very content to enjoy a bottle of almost every wine in this tasting. Some were clearly more traditional, where as a good number of wines, while showing excellent fruit, structure and outstanding wine making, could have been easily tagged as more 'international' in flavor. In fact, I preferred several of such wines in the tasting -- in part perhaps because they may have reminded me of other varietals I enjoy. Also, many of these wines can be enjoyed now or in a very near future -- I would not be surprised to see some of these opulent wines to close down quite a bit in a few years. Wines in each flight are arranged from my most to least favorites.

• 2009 Jean-Michel Gerin Côte-Rôtie Les Grandes Places

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  Muted nose. Explodes in the mouth -- rich, velvety, ripe blueberries, some medicinal or nutty notes. Sweet and remarkably extracted, this wine is so easy to enjoy now, though the hint of tannins suggests future improvement. Rich extraction reminded of youthful single crus from Aldo Conterno. Certainly more 'international' in style, but absolutely delicious. Excellent.

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• 2009 Patrick & Christophe Bonnefond Côte-Rôtie Les Rochains

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  From a magnum. Oak on the nose, followed by a rich aroma of crushed berries. Viscous, extracted wine that also shows plenty of minerality. Excellent contrast between the sweet and jammy blackberry fruit and tangy notes of wild berries. Had a chance to re-taste it later and this wine was just blossoming in the glass -- revealing additional layers of complexity and quality winemaking.

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• 2009 Mathilde et Yves Gangloff Côte-Rôtie La Serène Noire​

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  More typical syrah nose -- iron, dried blood, earth and leather. Less opulent, and seemingly more advanced that one would have expected for an '09. Racy, showing some tannins still, more traditional but less sensual wine.

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• 2009 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie Château d'Ampuis

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  Touch of oak on the nose, and then just red, fragrant fruit. Sexy, young and gorgeous; cassis, pure wild berries, hint of mint, dark chocolate, plum. Thought of Macchiole. Touch tannic in the finish. Absolutely delicious now. Very not-Rotie but irresistible now.

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• 2009 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Mouline

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  Deep, dark and aromatic, more masculine and serious than sexy d'Ampuis. Layers of flavors reveal coffee, roasted nuts, cherry, chocolate, swirled smoke. Not in love with the nose -- hint of cooked fruit. Believe this to be 100% syrah. Excellent, but by no means a perfect. Needs time.

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• 2009 Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  Traditional northern syrah nose; ripe fruit mixed with some dirty socks. Deep color with hints of purple. Still very young. Mineral and balanced. Hints of olives, earth, grilled bread crust.

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• 2010 Tardieu-Laurent Côte-Rôtie

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  Sour components of ripe fruit mixed with some barnyard aromas. Bit closed, made for aging. Dark chocolate, animal notes. Thinking Italy -- Maremma maybe. Great, mineral mouthfeel, Delicious now.

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• 2010 Michel & Stéphane Ogier Côte-Rôtie

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  Some traditional aromas mixed with blueberry jam and smoke. Mineral, more focused and energetic than previously tasted '09s. Meat, leather, animal aromas mingled with black raspberry liquor. Slightly alcoholic finish.

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• 2010 Clusel-Roch Côte-Rôtie La Viallière

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  Kirsh cherry nose. Cola like aftertaste. More monolithic and the least nuanced wine of the flight. Finishes short -- feels perhaps new wood overwhelms the underlying dark red fruit at this time.

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• 2010 Bernard Levet Côte-Rôtie La Chavaroche / La Péroline

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  Aroma of syrah, cocoa, leather. Tannic wine, finishes with a bit of green bell pepper streak of cab franc.

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• 2010 Domaine Georges Vernay Côte-Rôtie Maison Rouge

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  Some viognier in the blend. Great body and balance -- full bodied, extracted, velvety dark rich fruit. Tastes modern, delicious, with a touch of wood and mint -- Tua Rita perhaps.

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• 2010 M. Chapoutier Côte-Rôtie La Mordorée

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  Some oak and chocolate, mineral and quite tannic -- gritty tannins, vanilla cocoa evoke young sagrantino. Ripe, tangy dark fruit; long and persistent. The wine to put away.

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• 2010 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie La Landonne

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  Mute nose. Rich and spicy mouthfeel. The fruit is somewhat lacking for me. Nutty, darker aromas dominate. Hint of apricot jam. Abrupt finish. Other tasters found a more unique expression of the soil here -- I could not connect with this wine.

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• 2010 Delas Frères Côte-Rôtie La Landonne

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  Nose of dark cherry and coffee grinds. In the mouth, feels short and lacking structure. Too sweet on the attack, yet finishing with a hint of bitterness. Not mineral, tannic now. Not showing well tonight.

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