Rieslingfeier 2015 Seminar: "Saar Diversity"
The Modern (Manhattan, NYC)
Tasted Friday, January 30, 2015 by Seth Rosenberg with 576 views
Introduction
As the name suggests, the purpose of this seminar was to explore the diversity of the Saar. Moderator David Schildknecht, opened by discussing how diversity in various wine-growing was shrinking, and how the Saar was one area where there was a wide variety of styles still being made.
Flight 1 - Hofgut Falkenstein (2 Notes)
Young Johannes Weber - exuberant and sporting a near afro of curly hair, has taken the reins at Falkenstein. They are a small producer with a cult following in Europe. Johannes is carrying on the methods of the previous generation, while adding tweaks of his own. He says they use the Pradikat designation along in order to assure their customers that they are not chapitalizing the wines. He spoke about the use of natural and non-interventionist techniques. The wines are a very elegant, precise and clear style of Saar Riesling.
Flight 2 - Van Volxem (2 Notes)
Roman Niewodniczanski is an heir to the Bitburger beer fortune. He looks like a particular German archetype - tall, fit, well-dressed, hair pulled back in a ponytail with thin glasses. He looked to buy vineyards in the Wachau first, and then Tuscany, but couldn't afford either. When he bought, many of the historically best plots in the Saar were not being properly utilized and the price was right. He ended up with a portfolio of some of the best sites in the Saar, and has worked hard to bring them back to their prime. He knows a great deal about the Saar and its history and is a forceful salesman for Saar wines. He spoke of how he was trying for a more powerful and extracted style when he first started making wine (think austrian - Hirtzberger Smaragd), but that over time, through learning from the masters of the Saar, he pulled back to a more balanced and elegant style. The wines are still bigger than Falkenstein, but they are now harmonious and excellent expressions of the terroir.
Flight 3 - Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken (2 Notes)
Hanno Zilliken was the old-school representative on the panel. Mature and imposing - he presented as the classic grower-farmer-maker. Making classic Pradikat wines from the great Saarburger Rausch site.
Closing
Overall, this was a pretty enlightening seminar which accomplished its goal. Three different producers, 3 very different styles. All showing Saar terroir. And some tasty wines as well!
2013 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Sonnenberg Riesling Spätlese trocken 91 Points
Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Crushed stones and slate on the racy nose with dry tart lime, white flowers, a touch of spice, and subdued stone fruit - peach. Very lean, light and clear. Wicked dry on the palate - lean, tart citrus, pulverized stone and slate. Super focused and light. Really tart and acidic finish which ends with more slate. This is a very elegant and precise rendition of Saar Riesling - it's not my favorite style, but I can respect the purity and beauty. Nose - 5/6, Palate - 5/6, Finish - 4.5/6, Je ne Sais quoi - 1/2 = 15.5/20.
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2013 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese feinherb #4 93 Points
Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
10 g/l acid, 25 g/l RS. Subdued nose - stony, lime, spice, a touch of heat, broth. Great on the palate - lively and light, balanced, exciting and vibrant. Juicy citrus, powdered stone, gripping, nice light sugar/acid balance. Lovely lime/stone/slate finish. Both of these 13 Falkensteins were very light and pretty - a nice introduction to the house style. Nose - 4.5/6, Palate - 5.5/6, Finish - 5.5/6, Je ne Sais Quoi - 1-1.5/2 = 16.5-17/20.
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