Small producer in Fleury-la-Rivière, only 20,000 bottles annually. This Cuvée de Réserve, produced with mainly Pinot Noir, was aged sur lattes for five years. Rich fruit, quite forward in spite of its long lees-ageing, silky-smooth and stylish, elegant rather than really profound but a wonderful aperitif.
From vines planted in 1850, allegedly the oldest vineyard in France. Deep colour, full yellow with a golden touch; volatile nose, hint of glue, nuttiness, apple; apple flavours, remarkably fresh and mineral, has retained its structure and grip; good length.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
A flawless Bâtard, wonderfully rich yet remarkably elegant, perfectly integrated spicy oak, ripe but subtle fruit (orange), soft but firm acidity, not for the really long term but with some bitters that still need resolving, excellent intensity and length.
Very gravelly nose but no lack of fruit; medium weight, creamy and soft, not austere at all, bright but well-integrated 1996-acidity; good length. A pleasant surprise.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
Nuts and cherries on the nose, mineral, slightly nervous Pinot Noir on the palate, quite tannic, medium weight, good intensity and length, old fashioned, sturdy.
Amazing nose, incredibly exotic, rich and lifted, fruit and flowers, slate, almost Pinot Noir like; relatively light weight, mineral, fragrant, touches of tea and slate; lovely length. An essence of its terroir.
Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
Quite the opposite in style to the Barbarine 2007 it was paired with, little nose but rich and big palate, hint of heat (15% ABV), powerful, ripe fruit, structured, no lack of minerality or energy, impressive but still a bit monolithic.
Old-fashioned, rich, quite oxidative nose, nutty, warm, concentrated and with more than a hint of hint of volatility, powerful but mature, rich tannins, not as impressive as I remember from my previous tasting in 2005 but a very solid, impressive Ribeira del Duero.
Much cleaner and more modern style than the 1989 it was paired with, marked difference, richer than the 1996, excellent intensity and length, hints of vanilla and spice, ripe but rich and fresh fruit, cloves, beef stew, powerful but beautifully balanced and elegant. A wonderful symphony of balance and power. Long life.
The label does not mention a grape variety, but what's in the glass clearly indicates that this is Riesling. Rich amber gold, tawny core; very rich and expressive nose, Firne, flowers, honey, caramel, wonderful depth and complexity, Grande Champagne Cognac; lovely freshness and energy, medium weight, lively bitters, intense and concentrated; excellent length.
A blend of Grüner Veltliner and Chardonnay, 10% ABV. Jolly good Eiswein, green apple and Apfelstrudel on the nose; sweet and pretty on the palate but not profound or structured, light but energetic and with bright acidity; good length.
NV Yannick Vauthier Champagne Brut Cuvée de Réserve 91 Points
France, Champagne
Small producer in Fleury-la-Rivière, only 20,000 bottles annually. This Cuvée de Réserve, produced with mainly Pinot Noir, was aged sur lattes for five years. Rich fruit, quite forward in spite of its long lees-ageing, silky-smooth and stylish, elegant rather than really profound but a wonderful aperitif.
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2004 Weingut am Stein Würzburger Innere Leiste Riesling Spätlese trocken 88 Points
Germany, Franken
Open and mature nose, decidedly honeyed, spicy ripe fruit, good mineral depth; soft palate, ripe and mature, good flavours; decent length.
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2000 Domaine de la Charmoise Romorantin Val de Loire "Provignage" vigne pré-phylloxérique 87 Points
France, Loire Valley, Val de Loire
From vines planted in 1850, allegedly the oldest vineyard in France. Deep colour, full yellow with a golden touch; volatile nose, hint of glue, nuttiness, apple; apple flavours, remarkably fresh and mineral, has retained its structure and grip; good length.
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2009 J.M. Boillot Bâtard-Montrachet 94 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
A flawless Bâtard, wonderfully rich yet remarkably elegant, perfectly integrated spicy oak, ripe but subtle fruit (orange), soft but firm acidity, not for the really long term but with some bitters that still need resolving, excellent intensity and length.
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1996 Les Secrets de Lafon-Rochet 89 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
Very gravelly nose but no lack of fruit; medium weight, creamy and soft, not austere at all, bright but well-integrated 1996-acidity; good length. A pleasant surprise.
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1998 Domaine Christian Clerget Echezeaux 91 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
Nuts and cherries on the nose, mineral, slightly nervous Pinot Noir on the palate, quite tannic, medium weight, good intensity and length, old fashioned, sturdy.
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2007 Mathilde et Yves Gangloff Côte-Rôtie La Barbarine 93 Points
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Amazing nose, incredibly exotic, rich and lifted, fruit and flowers, slate, almost Pinot Noir like; relatively light weight, mineral, fragrant, touches of tea and slate; lovely length. An essence of its terroir.
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2005 Mitolo Shiraz G.A.M. 92 Points
Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
Quite the opposite in style to the Barbarine 2007 it was paired with, little nose but rich and big palate, hint of heat (15% ABV), powerful, ripe fruit, structured, no lack of minerality or energy, impressive but still a bit monolithic.
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1989 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único 93 Points
Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero
Old-fashioned, rich, quite oxidative nose, nutty, warm, concentrated and with more than a hint of hint of volatility, powerful but mature, rich tannins, not as impressive as I remember from my previous tasting in 2005 but a very solid, impressive Ribeira del Duero.
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1998 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único 95 Points
Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero
Much cleaner and more modern style than the 1989 it was paired with, marked difference, richer than the 1996, excellent intensity and length, hints of vanilla and spice, ripe but rich and fresh fruit, cloves, beef stew, powerful but beautifully balanced and elegant. A wonderful symphony of balance and power. Long life.
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1976 Weingut Josef Milz Serriger König-Johann-Berg Riesling Beerenauslese 92 Points
Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
The label does not mention a grape variety, but what's in the glass clearly indicates that this is Riesling. Rich amber gold, tawny core; very rich and expressive nose, Firne, flowers, honey, caramel, wonderful depth and complexity, Grande Champagne Cognac; lovely freshness and energy, medium weight, lively bitters, intense and concentrated; excellent length.
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2011 Weingut Nekowitsch Eiswein 90 Points
Austria, Burgenland, Neusiedlersee
A blend of Grüner Veltliner and Chardonnay, 10% ABV. Jolly good Eiswein, green apple and Apfelstrudel on the nose; sweet and pretty on the palate but not profound or structured, light but energetic and with bright acidity; good length.
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