Milziade Antano Visit

I love the rusticity of Milziade Antano, if not the wines themselves at all times then at least the estate. While we were tasting, one family member was working a capsuling machine, another was manually applying DOC labels to the capsuled bottles, and yet another was placing bottles in cases. We felt a bit invisible, in a good way—like we were seeing what life at this family estate is really like.

Interestingly, Antano describes the 2014 vintage as being great—high quality and quantity. This is in stark contrast to Paolo Bea, which essentially lost the 2014 harvest due to poor weather conditions. Unfortunately I didn't how Antano was able to avoid the same fate.

• 2012 Fattoria di Milziade Antano Montefalco Rosso

  Italy, Umbria, Montefalco, Montefalco Rosso

  70% Sangiovese, 15% Sagrantino, and 15% Merlot. This is a nice, light wine—lacking the wildness typical of Montefalco but enjoyable nonetheless. Aromas of pine, tart red fruits, and fresh flowers. You only get a sense of the Sagrantino in the blend in the mouth, where the tannins make your cheeks pucker. Medium acidity. If I had to guess, I'd say that this is best drunk in the next 2-3 years as the tannins will outlive the fruit. Rated 0 on a scale of -1 to 3.

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• 2011 Fattoria di Milziade Antano Montefalco Rosso Riserva

  Italy, Umbria, Montefalco, Montefalco Rosso

  65% Sangiovese, 15% Sagrantino, 15% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. This compares favorably to the Rosso, with bigger, more concentrated fruit, but also herbaceousness typical of the region. Aromas of prunes, savory herbs, and clay. Good acidity gives this a pleasing freshness, and the finish lingers with red fruits and minerals. The tannins aren't extreme enough to demand a piece of meat, which makes the wine a bit more flexible. Rated 1 on a scale of -1 to 3.

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• 2011 Fattoria di Milziade Antano Montefalco Sagrantino

  Italy, Umbria, Montefalco, Montefalco Sagrantino

  A very good wine: balanced, intense, multi-layered, and—most importantly—delicious. Wild red berries, wild herbs, intense bramble, graphite, lead, and hints of game and earth. Excellent concentration of flavors that evolve with each sip. Only medium acid, but the immense tannins beg for at least five years of aging (the wine should continue to evolve for at least ten years). Hints of licorice, candied red fruits, and slate/graphite on the long finish. Rated 1 on a scale of -1 to 3.

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• 2010 Fattoria di Milziade Antano Montefalco Sagrantino Colleallodole

  Italy, Umbria, Montefalco, Montefalco Sagrantino

  This single-vineyard bottling, made from the estate's oldest vines (30-40 years), is a clear step up from the basic Montefalco Sagrantino. An "A" nose of roasted figs, plums, raspberry liquor, clove, and sweet black fruits. Very expressive for such a young Sagrantino. In the mouth, the tannins are absolutely tongue-burning; the label should carry a warning not to drink the wine without food. Cellar for five years. Only 1,300 bottles produced. Rated 2 on a scale of -1 to 3.

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• 2011 Fattoria di Milziade Antano Montefalco Sagrantino Passito

  Italy, Umbria, Montefalco, Montefalco Sagrantino

  From 375ml. Very herbal bouquet with medicinal red berries and wood spices. Not terribly sweet, even by Montefalco Sagrantino Passito standards. A tad bitter on the finish. I find myself torn about this wine: I want to like it, and indeed there are many things to like, but I'm frustrated by the obvious influence the aging in barrique (none of it new, but they're small barrels nonetheless) has had on the purity of the Sagrantino. I bought a bottle to give it another try in the near future. Not rated.

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