A 60th Birthday Dinner

• 2000 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut

  France, Champagne

  Based upon 2 bottles which were very consistent. Light color. Gentle, transient mousse. Dry, ginger, some vanilla and lemon, great acidity, and essence of stone on the finish. Very fine.

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• 2000 Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile

  France, Alsace

  Based upon 2 bottles which were very consistent. Full yellow. Classic aromas of peach and some fusel. Full bodied, totally dry, more lemon than stone fruit, long mineral finish. Fantastic.

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• 1985 Domaine Huet Vouvray Moelleux Clos du Bourg

  France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray

  Medium yellow. As someone said, unmistakable Loire valley Chenin-clean quince and flowers. Medium weight. Not that sweet, no botrytis, crisp acidity, voluptuous feel. Just a beauty at a perfect point.

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• 1985 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Viña Real Reserva

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

  Incredibly even ruby. Prominent American oak signature. Medium weight, some texture but dominated by the wood, and not nearly as youthful fruit as the last bottle. This finished too lean and green for my enjoyment.

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• 1970 Franco Fiorina Barbaresco Riserva

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  Light red. Some VA on the nose. Lighter weight with a brief spark of fruit, but mostly dry and earthy. Drink up.

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• 1970 Graham Porto Vintage

  Portugal, Douro, Porto

  Decanted 4 hours prior. Light ruby throughout-very robust look for 45 year old Port. Poised, plummy, gently spicy, beautifully balanced and woven together, not too sweet, excellent acidity, still some residual tannin. Outstanding showing with another 10-15 years in hand and should become even more alluring.

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What, no '55s?!? Hardly worth attending...