Hommage A Jacques Perrin dinner - 89, 90, 00 and 10, also 02 Salon, 02 Carillon BBM, 89 Constance and etc.

A few of us got together to drink HJPs. There were a few wines that flirted with perfection. The commonality among them was that they were all beautifully balanced and displayed perfect precision.

The Krug showed well as usual. The 02 Salon which I had for the first time was excellent but not quite in the same league as the 96.

• NV Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée 93 Points

  France, Champagne

  IMO, the style of MV is fresher without much oxidative note. I appreciate how consistent they show. Fresh apple, yellow fruits, spicy spices, white pepper and mineral. Good concentration, sweet spicy yellow fruit driven palate impression, slightly coarse mousse, bright acidity and sweet medium finish. This particular bottle could benefit a few more years of cellaring but already delicious.

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• 2002 Salon Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut 96 Points

  France, Champagne

  As I recall Alan Weinberg posted on WB how perfect the 96 was by using his binary scale which meant the wine was rated 1. The 96 at release showed perfect precision, incredible mineral expression and piercing acidity. My first bottle of the 02 Salon and the style was very different from the 96. It is surprisingly delicate and approachable. Vinous nose, reminds me a young Chevalier Montrachet. Myers lemon, fresh ripe apple, a hint of spearmint, chalk and white flowers. Medium concentration, fine mousse, delicate and airy palate, sweet citrus driven palate impression, limestone, good acidity and lovely clean finish. It is really enjoyable but not in the same league as the 96.

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The Magis was really impressive. The Carillon BBM was flirting with perfection.

• 2002 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Côte Bouguerots 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  No sign of premox but soft and subtle. Ripe yellow fruits, lemon and mineral. Good concentration, a bit fat and slightly lacking the precision. I like Fevre young with opulent fruits.

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• 2009 Marcassin Chardonnay Three Sisters Vineyard 94 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

  I thought Very Marcassin. I was surprised to read my last note from August, 2014 which also noted very Marcassin and also rated 94 pts. Consistent with the last bottle. Ripe yellow fruits, lemon curd, banana, pineapple, toasted oak and mineral, Excellent concentration, sweet ripe yellow fruit driven palate impression, sweet and sour, good acidity and sweet spicy finish.

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• 2009 Rotem & Mounir Saouma Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Magis 96 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Quite shy initially, lanoline and subtle white fruits. With air, honey, lanoline, white peach, almond paste, honeysuckle and lime stone which reminded me a great Saumur Champigny blanc rather than a CDP blanc. Very precise palate impression, mineral, saline, good acidity and lovely clean finish. Very clean, subtle and fresh wine. Very unique and interesting. Although two years apart, my impression closely mirrors sjwshiraz. this is a polar opposite to the 10 Beaucastel VV Blanc served next.

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• 2010 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Cuvée Roussanne Vieilles Vignes 97 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  I typically am not a big fan of ripe tropical fruits but this was incredibly delicious. Intense and expressive nose displaying pink grapefruit, candied orange, pineapple, coconut, pina colada, sweet spices and limestone. Excellent concentration, creamy texture, pina colada, bright acidity, strong mineral presence and lovely long finish. Despite very ripe tropical fruit driven palate impression, it shows nice balance. Really hedonistic wine but don’t look for Dauvissat here.

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• 2002 Louis Carillon Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet 99 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

  Consistent with the last bottle drunk in August, 2013. Expressive nose displaying ripe yellow fruits, lemon, lemon curd, a hint of fresh pineapple, lanoline, custard, mint and mineral. Excellent concentration, unctuous yet airy and weightless, intense yet very precise and detailed, intense sweet yellow fruit driven palate impression, bright acidity and incredibly long finish. Once again deeply toned and more Batard than Chevalier. Very serious wine with formidable scale. Just an incredible experience. I must thank Barry P for generously sharing the both bottles.

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I served this blind and it showed very well. The expression is different from the 90 Rayas. Nevertheless, really enjoyable.

• 1990 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Pignan Reserve 94 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  I double decanted at home and served blind. Pretty positive responses. Ripe black and red fruits, cherry, kirsch, tobacco, fruitcake, baking spices, root beer and earth. Good concentration, very ripe dark fruit driven palate impression, bright acidity and still noticeable tannins that give slightly dry finish. For my palate, I would cellar for five to ten more years to gain more tertiary notes.

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All three were fully mature showing slightly Burgundian palate. The 78 was a bit dirty.

• 1978 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape Flawed

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Initially thought corked but just off, dirty damp cellar. Red fruits, garrigue, leather and etc. Soft and round.

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• 1983 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 93 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  The 83 was the first Beaucastel I drank twenty some years ago. Still alive and kicking, very Burgundian, raspberry, dry cherries, tobacco, Asian spices, a hint of licorice, leather, smoke and earth. Medium concentration, tobacco and dry cherry driven palate impression, bright acidity giving the freshness, nicely integrated tannins and long finish. Although the 78 was a bit off, all three had very similar expression of old school CDP. Really enjoyable.

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• 1981 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 94 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  I may prefer the perfect/clean bottle of the 89 but I prefer the 81 for consistency. Mostly dry red fruits, cherries, kirsch, mineral, strong smoke note and garrigue. Fully integrated palate impression, subtle wild game, soft and round but good freshness due to bright acidity, no noticeable tannins and sweet red fruit driven finish. Really enjoyable but I bet this would be incredible in magnum format. No need to wait.

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Perhaps the most intense yet also most precise and balanced CDPs I have ever encountered.

• 1989 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape Hommage à Jacques Perrin 99 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  The beauty lies in the balance and precision. Expressive nose displaying ripe black fruits, fruit cake, tobacco, only a hint of leather, licorice, lavander and limestone/earth. Exceptional concentration but very precise, silky and polished palate, sweet slightly dried black fruit driven palate impression, good acidity and lovely long finish. Perhaps the most balanced CDP of my life. Great showing.

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• 1990 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape Hommage à Jacques Perrin 98 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Riper and bigger than the 89, intense sweet black fruits, black berries and black cherries, a hint of espresso, dark spices, black pepper and dry limestone/dust. Excellent concentration, ripe yet cool overall fruit impression, strong presence of mineral, good acidity, nicely layered fruits, nicely integrated tannins and incredibly long finish. Extremely impressive and enjoyable but still need further cellaring.

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• 2000 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape Hommage à Jacques Perrin 96 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Expressive nose displaying black and blue fruits, blackberries, blueberries, blueberry jelly, tobacco, leather with only a hint of garrigue. Another very precise and balanced wine. Excellent concentration, cool blue fruit driven palate impression, good acidity, nicely integrated tannins and long finish. Not as concentrated as the others but still exceptional concentrated. Great showing.

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• 2010 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape Hommage à Jacques Perrin 99 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  For such a young wine with incredible concentration, the fruit is incredible pure which makes the overall expression very fresh. Contrast to the newer super cuvees, this shows the perfect balance and freshness without ever being too heavy. Intense black fruit driven nose, blackberries, kirsch, licorice, smoke and lavender. Incredible concentration yet also displaying incredibly freshness, unctuous yet airy, bright acidity and no noticeable tannins due to the incredibly layered fruits, This is an immortal wine, truly a grand vin!

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Ethereal and weightless.

• 1989 Domaine Huet Vouvray Cuvée Constance 99 Points

  France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray

  What an incredible wine. Bright amber. Subtle yet incredibly complex nose displaying apricots, cranberries, tarte tatin, honey, red tea, orange zest, sweet and spicy spices and strong presence of mineral. Excellent concentration yet airy and weightless which I only find in great wines, intense sweet red fruit driven palate impression, strong presence of mineral, sweet spices, bright acidity and lovely long finish. This is all about incredible weightless texture. Wow!

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Another incredibly night with great friends. We started at 6:30 but some of us stayed until 1 in the morning.