Roulot Meursault/Roumier Bonnes Mares Lunch at La Paulée

Daniel, New York
Tasted Thursday, February 26, 2015 by drwine2001 with 466 views

Introduction

A wonderful lunch with both Jean-Marc Roulot and Christophe Roumier in attendance and superb food prepared by Daniel Boulud, Michel Troisgros and their teams.

Flight 1 - Roulot Meursaults (7 Notes)

Many of these were poured from large format bottles. They varied quite a bit in style, with some that shouted Meursault while others called to mind other Cote de Beaune appellations.

  • 2011 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Luchets

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

    Light color. Toasty aromas. Medium weight, lovely feel without showing as much wood as the nose does. Leesy pear and apple fruit, good acidity and length. Excellent village level wine and unmistakably Meursault.

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  • 2010 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Luchets

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

    Magnum. Light yellow. High toned, forward orange and a bit of more tropical fruit. Lighter weight, faint hazelnut, very bright citrus (even some white grapefruit), and as it blossoms, some creamier lees elements. Racy, stony finish. While it was my personal favorite of the 4 Luchets, I would have never guessed Meursault.

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  • 2009 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Luchets

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

    Magnum. Light yellow. Backward but eventually guava and bitter citrus aromas. Bigger, rounder, woodier, and more lees than the 2010. Really silky, lush, and long with a good rocky core. The wine most expressive of the appellation amongst the Luchets flight.

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  • 2004 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Luchets

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

    Yellow, youthful looking. Funky sulfury, lactic nose that never really improved but some stunted lemony notes came through. Medium weight, muted fruit, almost cheesy flavors with some nuttiness in the background. Dry style compared to the rest. Best in its creamy feel, but then the finish was dilute, hard, and short. I'm suspicious this was just not right, but at any rate, well behind the other Roulots today.

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  • 2004 Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Charmes

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

    Healthy yellow appearance. Fragrant multilayered nose-flowers, citrus, and a trace of green herbs. Orange really explodes with air. Elegant light to medium weight with a trace of wood. Good attack with more intensity and acidic drive than the Luchets, but it fades in the middle and finish. In the end, more exciting to smell than to taste.

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  • 2000 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Tessons Clos de Mon Plaisir

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

    Jeroboam. Slightly fuller yellow. Mellow light hazelwood and fennel aromatics. Medium to full bodied, really the only heavyweight in the line up. Over time, orange peel comes up and there is distant pear skin, but this is not primarily about fruit. Creamy, deep, and very long with excellent acidity. More akin to a Grand Cru Cote de Beaune such as Chevalier-Montrachet. Wow, is this impressive! Easily outshone the Perrières that followed.

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  • 1999 Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

    Magnum. Remarkably light yellow for its age. Little in the way of aromatics. Elegant middle weight, almost delicate for this cru. Subdued bitter citrus, real sense of stoniness, and rising almond/hazelnut. This unfolds and improves in the glass but is still well short of being an outstanding Perrières.

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Flight 2 - Roumier Bonnes Mares (3 Notes)

Served out of magnum, all of these would have benefited from many more years of aging.

  • 1996 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

    Magnum. Even ruby. Slightly sweaty, stemmy nose at first, and then the scent of freshly baked cherries. Medium weight, subtle ripe black and red fruit complemented by anise, spice, and powerful acidity. The only thing wrong with this wine is that it needs several more decades; it is just beginning to creep out of its hard shell. It opened marvelously, suggesting to me anyway that it might ultimately be the best of these 3 fantastic wines.

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  • 1995 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

    Magnum. A tad less saturated than the '96 before it. Wild, "animale" aromatics with a strong dose of menthol. Medium weight. Lots going on here, but not yet integrated-sweet, heady red fruit, some smokiness, licorice, high acidity, strong soil, and an even more tannic finish than the '96. It feels harsher in a way that makes me wonder if all of these components will eventually mesh. My least favorite of the Bonnes Mares flight.

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  • 1990 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

    Magnum. Medium red center, fading edge. Highly fragrant in a stalky way at first. This receded to reveal cinnamon spice and candied red fruit. Not a big wine at all, but plenty of flavor impact and authority. Slightly peppery, naturally sweet fruit with voluptuous texture, great acidity, and a long, soil filled finish. This continued to expand in the glass and balanced suppleness that makes it wonderful now with enough in reserve to carry it forward for some time. Absolutely delicious and a great way to finish a memorable afternoon.

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