La Paulee de New York 2015 "Les Petits des Grands Seminar"
City Winery, NYC
Tasted Saturday, February 28, 2015 by SteadyEddy with 424 views
Introduction
The "Les Petits des Grands Seminar" was structured as a guided tasting of six "entry level" wines made by both well-regarded and up-and-coming Burgundy producers. The wines were described generally as offering affordable options for consumers interested in authentic Burgundy from producers committed to high standards despite the limited economic gain from selling such wines.
Daniel Johnnes's participation on the panel spoke volumes of his commitment to promoting the wines of Burgundy at all price points and places of origin within the region. Another highlight was the participation of Dominique Lafon, who spoke not only of his own Vire Clesse but also of other wines from producers intent on making wines of integrity. Dominique was very engaged and offered in-depth explanations and opinions in response to a range of questions from the audience.
A minor nit is that the panel seemed unaware of average retail prices for the six wines. I'm willing to concede that five out of the six wines, at $25 to $35, represent decent value. But the Arnaud Ente Alligote, at an average price of $70, didn't seem to fit the occasion.
I found this seminar to be very informative, and I appreciated the ample time given for the audience to taste and consider the wines. While none of the selections would be confused with premier crus, the seminar encouraged me not to give up on searching for "affordable" quality burgundy.
2012 Arnaud Ente Bourgogne-Aligoté
France, Burgundy, Bourgogne-Aligoté
Nose is fresh, bright and inviting with notes of honeydew. Nice mouthfeel, a bit honeyed but not fleshly like a chardonnay. No oak. Good fruit, acidity and minerality, although not highly complex. According to Dominique Lafon, who described this wine, Ente is careful to reduce the yield of its Aligote grapes (Aligote is highly productive), with the result that the wine shows distinct personality.
Based on a quick search, this appears to retail for approx $70, which I found shocking given that this was presented in the "Les Petits des Grandes" La Paulee seminar as an "affordable" gem. The wine is of good quality, but not a good QPR at this price point.
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2012 Domaine Frantz Chagnoleau Saint-Véran Clos à la Côte
France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Saint-Véran
Nice, sweet fruit aroma, like honeydew with a hint of musk. Very inviting. Good acidity and minerality. This wine has terrific poise and refinement. Crisp. According to the winemaker, this spent one year in barrel with no battonage. Not a blockbuster, but classy.
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2012 Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon Viré-Clessé 90 Points
France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Viré-Clessé
Of the six wines presented at the La Paulee "Les Petits des Grands" seminar, this was my favorite. Slight, but inviting nose of white flowers, citrus and white peaches. Just a hint of reduction. Supple mouthfeel, excellent balance, fresh acidity, wonderful finish. While not at the same level as a Puligny Montrachet, I found the flavors and finesse of this wine to be reminiscent of a P-M. At approx $30 / bottle, this offers a good QPR if you like the restrained style. I tracked this down later and bought half a case for use as a "house white".
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2012 Domaine Roulot Bourgogne Blanc
France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc
Odd note of sesame seeds on the nose. Bracing acidity, very fresh. A very pleasant wine, although seemed a bit one-dimensional and lacking in minerality.
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