Domaine Zind Humbrecht
Tasted Saturday, March 21, 2015 by PanosKakaviatos with 1,647 views
Many of these wines have not hit store shelves yet, so consider this a first look - at least on Cellar Tracker - of Zind Humbrecht in 2013.
I posted a detailed opinion from this tasting in early March in Harpers Wine & Spirit. You can read it by clicking on the link below.
Basically, wine lovers should take note: many Domaine Zind Humbrecht 2013 wines exude crispy freshness, purity of fruit, delectable mid-palate sap, medium to full body, and often long and pleasing finishes.
http://www.harpers.co.uk/opinion/panos-kakaviatos-domaine-zind-humbrecht-2013s-just-bottled-and-delicious/515587.article
Smooth, rich and racy at the same time. Flavorful with with an aromatically dry finish, even if a touch short.
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Keep in mind that this - and the other higher end 2013s - tasted in March 2015 are but babies, and that in this case the point score reflects future development more than current state of affairs. So, the Riesling Rangen de Thann Clos-Saint-Urbain Grand Cru 2013 has the following "figures": alcohol 12.5°, residual sugar 5 g/l, total Acidity 4.7 g/l, yield 9 hl/ha (!), optimum drinking period 2018 - 2038+, average age of the vines 51 years. The dark rocky volcanic soil combined with extremely steep south-facing slope helps the vineyard catch up late in the season and acquire superb physiological ripeness. Yields were extremely small, even smaller than 2012 and the result is a “vineyard concentrate” Rangen wine. It was like biting into a ripe and juicy pear, with plenty of stone fruit freshness. Long finish! A must for any Riesling lover.
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Well, well. This is a terrific Pinot Gris. Harvested by 15 October, the estate would have liked to have picked even later but the situation did not permit it. I think the relatively low 3.7 pH with its dry aspects - 13.4 per cent alcohol and 12.9 grams of residual sugar (not too high for this Pinot Gris) just make it a gorgeous wine. Flinty and smokey aromatics and Olivier Humbrecht's notes are revealing: "The palate demonstrates how elegant a wine can be if harvested at a very low yield (in this case, 20 hectoliters per hectare), yet still carrying obvious ripeness." Rounded mid palate, strong mineral character and brisk acidity leading to a lifting finish. Bravo!
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I loved the cool precision of this wine (alcohol 12.5°, residual sugar 8 g/l, total acidity 5.2 g/l, yield 34 hl/ha, optimum drinking period 2018 - 2038+, average age of the vines 39 years). Clos Windsbuhl is located on top of a small hill attached to the Vosges forest, just above the village of Hunawihr so the high location explains a late ripening climate, enhanced by the calcareous (Muschelkalk) soil. Olivier Humbrecht’s tasting notes are on target: "The nose shows racy aromas: fruits, wet stones and is already very elegant. There is no extra weight and the palate feels razor sharp, with a mineral acidity that is unique to this vineyard."
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Interesting to compare the 2012, also at the tasting, with its younger sibling. At over 13˚ alcohol, almost a full degree more than the 2013, with almost four more grams of residual sugar at 11.5. The body and richness of the 2012 was impressive, as it seemed almost exotic by comparison. With plenty of contour on the mid palate and a long finish. But I preferred the finesse and elegance of the 2013.
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A very expressive nose (honied and fruity, rich yellow apricot). But indeed, given the vintage character, the palate is almost surprising by comparison: very brisk acidity and freshness, with excellent focus on the rounded and full bodied palate. Once again, a truly fine Pinot Gris, balanced and coming off dry, although with 14.5% alcohol and 10 grams of residual sugar. The low pH of 3.4 balanced things nicely. Bravo!
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Wow! A triple whammy from this great cooler terroir, this time for the aromatically appealing variety that is Gewurztraminer. I could not believe it was 34 grams of residual sugar. Very little noble rot, given the aforementioned difficulties for late harvesting in 2013, and the acidity (pH of 3.5) brings fine structure to balance the weight. Really lovely old rose aromas, and touch of ginger. Just delicious and even subtle.
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A delicious Zind – a blend of 65% Chardonnay and 35% Auxerrois – which makes for excellent summer (or any) party wine. At 13.4% alcohol with just 3.1 grams of residual sugar and a low pH of 3.1, it has a limestone like freshness, but a medium plus body coming from the Chardonnay. The vintage character shines through in the form of "juicy saline acidity," as Olivier Humbrecht stressed. A great deal, and bravo!
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From the get go, a juicy green melon aspect that beckons drinking. Had to buy of this, as I do not have that much high quality Muscat in my cellar. And you should too ;-). The fruity aromatics set the stage for a dry and elegant palate, classic acidity from the terroir, and a long lingering finish. About the best expression of Alsatian Muscat one can buy. 12.6 percent alcohol, 6 grams of residual sugar and a low pH of 3.2.
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Here we have a grand cru that underwhelmed just a bit. While the Gewurz Clos Windsbuhl had almost 15 grams more of residual sugar, this wine seemed to come off as sweeter! Viticulture manager Alex Guth called it a more "feminine" style but I have not clue about that metaphor. For me, it just seemed to lack the verve of most of the other grands crus that I so enjoyed in this tasting. Having said that, there is no denying this wine's rose and floral aromas and rich texture on the plainly full bodied palate!
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Yet another successful Zind Humbrecht Riesling from 2013, exuding wet stone and ripe citrus expressions on both the nose and medium plus body palate. A lovely Riesling, crisp and pure and long on the finish.
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Well, now, the nose and palate were really tight and reduced, so it took time to ascertain the intrinsic qualities in glass. Marl-limestone soils in a smallish 7.5 hectare vineyard of which Zind Humbrecht owns over 4 hectares. Finished bone dry like so many others in this vintage, as 12.7 percent alcohol with 3.6 grams of residual sugar and a low pH of 3.1, the reduction prevents its full fruit expression at this stage just after bottling but excellent salinity and acidity, with medium plus body and a long finish.
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Here we go again, in a good way... High acidity, complex and rich. Another fine Pinot Gris in 2013. The full bodied palate has a density that one gets from this variety, especially as the vines get older (here we have an average vine age of nearly 30 years), but with a brisk limestone terroir influenced salinity that lifts the long finish. Lovely!
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Tasted just after the Heimbourg and it just got better with this slightly cooler feeling wine, coming from vines grown on poor rocky red calcareous mother rock. Even more of a "limestone" like freshness albeit slightly higher alcohol - 14 as opposed to 13.8 for the Heimbourg. The difference may lie in lower residual sugars with Rotenberg: at 5.3 grams as opposed to 6.9 for the Heimbourg. Very citrus like on the nose and palate, full bodied, although slightly reduced. With aeration, very flinty and almost Riesling like. Just delicious!
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Well, here was just one wine in the entire 2013 series I did not like that much. Made mainly from the young vines of Hengst, along with a vineyard near the Goldert, I felt as if the residual sugar dominated the wine, leading to a sensation of monolithic sweetness overall. It is a wine that one can enjoy but lacks the verve of so many others from this vintage at Zind Humbrecht.
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Here we have a textbook Gewurztraminer of high quality: both high ripeness and freshness. Although I clearly prefer the Clos Windsbuhl as more elegant, the Hengst - with more residual sugar and a slightly higher pH - will please those who seek opulence in their Gewurz. A velvety and rounded texture and yet the 2013 vintage character keeps it from ever being over-rich. Nice job!
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What Chutzpah! Really this wine is amazing in that it manages to integrate a whopping 68 grams of residual sugar to come across as balanced and savory. Is it the deep, rich marl gypsum soil that remains cool and fresh? Does that engender the excellent acidity and freshness? I have not clue, but I can just say that any Alsace Pinot Gris lover (and non lover for that matter) must try this. As Olivier Humbrecht wrote in his detailed notes for this tasting: "there is no sense of heaviness." Cheers to that. Full bodied, long finish, high flavor intensity. Go for it!
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All in a all, 2013 Zind Humbrecht is a strongly recommended purchase across all price points.
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2013 Zind-Humbrecht Muscat 90 Points
France, Alsace
The first of the wines I tried - and a fine (positive) tone setter. Taken from the gravel/granitic soils section. Just under 12 percent alcohol, barely noticeable residual sweetness (3.1 grams per liter) and a low pH of 3.1, this wine gave off expectedly grapey scents with a touch of pleasing floral aspects. The brisk acidity was refreshing and makes this a great buy.
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2013 Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Herrenweg de Turckheim 89 Points
France, Alsace
As said in opening remarks as published by Harpers Wine & Spirit, I am not a super Pinot Gris d'Alsace fan, but this was setting a positive tone with brisk acidity, so I was "pleasantly surprised" with this achieving lower than expected sugar maturity, finishing fully dry in 2013. Stone fruit and a touch of nutmeg. The palate is fresh and brisk. Nice job!
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2013 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Terroir d'Alsace 91 Points
France, Alsace
Made mainly from declassified parcels from the Herrenweg and Brand vineyards, this wine's first vintage was 2008. Crisp and clean with a "vin sec" on the label! I like the stoney aspects, and even though dry, it exudes ripeness and weight. 12.6% alcohol with 3.3 grams of residual sugar and a low pH of 3.2. Lovely!
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2013 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Brand 95 Points
France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru
Always interesting to compare the Riesling Brand Grand Cru with the Rangen de Thann. As expected, slightly higher alcohol at 13 but residual sugar about the same at 5.1 g/l and total acidity not much less at 4.2 g/l . The yield was higher at 22 hl/ha with an estate recommended optimum drinking period of 2017 - 2033+. The average age of the vines is 63 years. Brand is a very solar vineyard. It benefits from exceptional sun exposure (steep south facing slope) and warm well drained granite soil that brings richness and maturity. Compared to Rangen de Thann, a greater sense of ripeness and maturity and yet the Brand remains elegant and very complex – and was fermented perfectly dry.
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