Paul Pernot 2014's Out of Barrel

What a highlight it was to meet and taste with the venerable Paul Pernot. The range of wines was very fine too, suggesting that 2014 will not disappoint acid lovers. The Bienvenue-Batard in particular justified the view that this is underrated and one of the great values remaining in Grand Cru white Burgundy.

• 2014 Paul Pernot et ses Fils Bourgogne-Aligoté

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne-Aligoté

  Barrel. Really quite beautiful lemon and minerality in a medium weight package.

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• 2014 Paul Pernot et ses Fils Bourgogne Blanc

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc

  Barrel. Bright ripe citrus. Good bitter pit finish. Not as much minerality as the Aligoté. Very good for its level.

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• 2014 Paul Pernot et ses Fils Puligny-Montrachet

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet

  Barrel. Very floral, so Puligny. Sweet ripe fruit, lovely feel. Great balance of richness and acidity. Quite impressive village.

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• 2014 Paul Pernot et ses Fils Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru La Pièce-sous-le-Bois

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru

  Barrel. Lovely citrus. More oak showing than in the Puligny AC but still great purity.

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• 2014 Paul Pernot et ses Fils Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champs Canet Clos Jacquelotte

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

  Barrel. The first vintage Pernot has made wine from this subplot. Fine, high toned floral nose. Floral in the mouth as well. Excellent acidity. More refined than the village Puligny.

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• 2014 Paul Pernot et ses Fils Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chalumeaux

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

  Barrel. Lower pitched citrus nose and palate than the others. Relatively full and round, not as prominent acidity. Long and powerful with a bit of cyanic citrus pit on the finish.

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• 2014 Paul Pernot et ses Fils Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Garenne

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

  Barrel. Here more citrus than florality. Ripe entry, strongly mineral finish, slightly lower acidity than some of the others. Delicious combination.

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• 2014 Paul Pernot et ses Fils Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos des Folatières

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

  Barrel. Nose is already complex. Mouth coating ripe fruit with a gentle wood overlay. Great texture and very well balanced. Again, the acidity does not stick out. Rather forward and showing very well.

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• 2014 Paul Pernot et ses Fils Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

  Barrel. After the Folatieres, this is back to a more high pitched, perfumed set of aromas. Lighter than that wine with a little more wood evident. Backward, higher acidity, and overall brighter. I really liked this a lot despite my usual oak aversion.

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• 2014 Paul Pernot et ses Fils Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

  Barrel. More deeply pitched aromatics and the first wine to show a lactic side. Real liveliness, palate presence, and persistence. Great rush of orange fruit at the end and some almost tannic austerity. Not a big Grand Cru but a beauty.

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• 2014 Paul Pernot et ses Fils Bâtard-Montrachet

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

  Barrel. Oh man, now here is a Cote de Beaune Grand Cru nose-creamy, lactic, yellow fruit. More toasty oak is noticeable. Perfectly ripe fruit with pear rather than citrus. Not as backward and zesty as the Bienvenue. It may just be a function of tasting a barrel sample at this juncture, but I must say I have my doubts about all of the wood being resorbed. That said, it has superb material and balance otherwise.

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