Horizons of Marlborough Winemaking
SITT 2015
Tasted Monday, February 23, 2015 by andrewstevenson.com with 336 views
Introduction
This masterclass was presented by Marcel Giesen. Marcel Giesen is not only Giesen’s co-owner and Chief Winemaker, but also the winemaker at Bell Hill Wines, Canterbury’s boutique winery with cult status.
A soil horizon is a layer generally parallel to the soil surface. Three or four of these layers make up the soil, the foundations. There are many horizons shaping Marlborough winegrowing and making. The valleys are a unique mix of climate, topography and soils which creates fascinating sub-regions and micro ‘single vineyard’ regions. Marcel Giesen decided to call this diverse terroir home over twenty years ago and has since, contributed greatly to laying the region's wine foundations. While continuing to celebrate Sauvignon Blanc versatility in style, depth and complexity, this masterclass aimed to broaden participants' perception of Marlborough through tasting some of Giesen's numerous cuvées of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
2013 Giesen Sauvignon Blanc Small Batch 89 Points
New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough
Classic gooseberry with a hint of passion fruit, pea and asparagus nose. Good, open palate. Fairly powerful flavours. I like it and pretty decent value.
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2011 Giesen Sauvignon Blanc The August 92 Points
New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough
Actually called "The August 1888" on the label of this bottle: August was the name of the Giesen's grandfather back in Germany. This is made in an old world style, with no temperature control, natural yeasts using a starter they make in the vineyards, fermented on its lees, then aged still on its lees for 11 months in old barriques.
A very pleasing nose: there's sauvignon blanc fruit, with a good layer of smoky oak. Very attractive palate. Lovely round character, with the oak smoothing out the extremes of the sauvignon blanc grape. I really like this: it's very impressive. Great length.
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2012 Giesen Sauvignon Blanc The Fuder Matthews Lane 87 Points
New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough
"The Fuder" name comes from the use of 1000 litre German Fuder barrels imported from Germany. The full lees solids go into the fuders and the juice is fermented using natural yeasts from the vineyard. The aim, says, Marcel Giesen, is to show "what's possible with less winemaking."
It has a very interesting nose, with asparagus and some spirituosity. Very rounded and integrated.
Very smooth and rounded on the palate: almost starting to lose character, but it's an interesting wine in an attractive style. Possibly "more Marlborough" than the 2011 "The August 1888"
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2012 Giesen Chardonnay The Fuder Clayvin Vineyard 85 Points
New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough
Fermented in 1000-litre German Fuder from fruit grown on their own 38 acre Clayvin Vineyard, which is certified organic.
For a wine brought up in a large Fuder, there's a lot of oak on the nose: lots of oak dominsates the chardonnay fruit, but oddly it doesn't feel intrusive. Initially - but only initially - it's lighter on the palate than expected. Quickly feels quite viscous and almost chewy on the palate. It has a big, fruity, chunky, clunky chardonnay character that's failing to charm me. It could maybe do with some more time.
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2012 Giesen Pinot Noir Clayvin Vineyard 88 Points
New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough
Lovely nose. Earthy, remarkably black fruit, with beetroot leaves and some cherry. There's almost a hint of fleshiness.
Very attractive attack. In the mouth it feels open and reasonably elegant, but also fairly simple. Delicate maybe. Very soft tannins accompany some cherry-raspberry fruit on the finish. Nice precision.
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2012 Giesen Pinot Noir Ridge Block Single Vineyard 87 Points
New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough
A rather more serious nose than the Clayvin pinot noir. It has a richer feel than the Clayvin, with less polish and delicacy. Much juicier, riper feeling fruit on the palate. Then it becomes quite chunky with firmish tannins.
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