Date night at Blue Hill

Just the two of us for an indulgent evening out. As always, BH@SB never fails to impress, and still manages to surprise. The highlights this time around: a 'beet' hot dog on a fresh wheat roll with cucumber relish and whole grain mustard, cooked over pork bone charcoal; soft-shell crab 'burritos' in a shaved kohlrabi tortilla; grilled asparagus with fresh yogurt and 'borscht' sauce; and perhaps the single best dish, two kinds of pork: loin and belly. Unctuous goodness. Tonight's surprise (spoilers ahead):

Midway through the meal, the candle at our table was replaced, without comment, with another candle. A little odd, we thought, but it seemed brighter than the first candle, and the daylight filtering into the dining room was waning, so perhaps more light? Several courses went by, and then we reached the final beef course, two lovely slices of medium-rare grass beef. A second server arrived, with small heads of fresh picked lettuce. "A salad to go with your beef course, dressed with beef fat, from the beef tallow candle you've been enjoying this evening," at which point she picked up the candle (and now I see the spout on the candle jar, a ha), and poured clear molten fat over the lettuce. Ingenious. And delicious.

• 1998 Ruinart Champagne Dom Ruinart Brut Rosé 93 Points

  France, Champagne

  In the glass, clear, pale copper shading to pink. On the nose, orange zest and a faint hint of wood smoke. On the palate, a quick burst of yeasty effervescence all over the palate, followed by a mix of strawberries, oranges, slate, and secondary notes of sherry. Paired well with a wide range of vegetable courses.

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• 2000 Château Cheval Blanc 96 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

  From a 375, decanted three hours before service. The nose on this is spectacular: currants, plums, truffles, tobacco, graphite, crushed white pepper, all integrated into a beguiling mixture. We spent more time with our noses in the glass than we spent drinking it. On the palate, this is still very young - no secondary notes that come with aging, just lots of pure fruit. Cassis and plums, on a very smooth texture. There are tannins here, but they are very fine. This has many years ahead.

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• 1989 Trimbach Riesling Clos Ste. Hune Vendanges Tardives 91 Points

  France, Alsace

  In the glass, clear honey colored. On the nose, apricots, peach, and petrol, but the impression is much more sweet than dry. On the palate, however, this comes across as a kabinett, still quite dry, with a full dose of minerality and mouthfilling texture. Listed under dessert wines, but this would have found a much better home at the beginning of the meal. With oysters, this would have been amazing.

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Another fine evening of food and wine. It's all good.