Hairy Crab Night 2014

Hairy Crab season rolled around again, and it was time for a BYO at Capital again. Unsurprisingly, the Auslese was the best pairing by some distance.

• 2010 Plantaže Krstač 89 Points

  Montenegro, Podgorica, Lake Skadar Valley

  In spite of having had this in Montenegro a few months ago (and having enjoyed it quite a bit), I had absolutely no idea what it was when it was served blind. It was pretty good again though. The nose had a rather neutral white-fruitedness to it along with a touch of citrus lime zest and some chalk notes. The mid-bodied palate had a nice fullness of flavour, with a riper white fruited character than the nose. Clean acidity and a sprinkling of acidity gave the wine a nice sense of cut as it moved into the finish. Simple, undemonstrative, but quite pleasant and food-friendly.

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• 2004 Nicolas Potel Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs-Gain 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

  Decently good, if not quite the style of white Burg that I like. This was rich and oakey on the nose, with lots of buttery accents and honeyed aromas wafting about dried earth notes and slightly oxidative scents of kumquat skins and Salak (aka snake-skin) fruit. With time, some floral notes started coming out as well. The palate was creamy and toasty, with sweet white fruit and nutty flavours at the fore, along with a lick of smoky, toasty mineral at the finish. Like the nose, some time and air allowed more floral components to show after awhile. It was all just a bit too toasty and in-your-face for my tastes, although some others may like this particular expression of Chardonnay. Good thing that the wine showed some quality in the way it came together, with a good bit of bright, lemony acidity cutting through all its flavours and giving it a sense of clean balance throughout. In spite of not rocking my world, this was actually a pretty decent wine that was drinking quite readily on the night. Not sure it will improve much, so drink up.

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• 2006 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 92 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  JJ Prum WS Aus 2006. This was served a bit warm straight out of the bottle and came across a bit muddled, but it grew with time and air until it showed really nicely. On first pour, the nose was dominated by honeyed aromas and sweet stone fruit. Over the evening though, more subtle shades of orange blossoms and nectar, the white chocolate and vanilla that were typical of the vineyard, and then some gentle mineral tones started emerging to make a nice little bouquet. Likewise, the palate came across very creamy and rich at first, full of sweet flavours of honeyed stone fruit – almost a bit too sweet. However, while this always lacked the cut and drive and some of the stirring acidity of greater vintages, it began to show a nice balance as it cooled down and opened up, displaying depth without weight and some power without heaviness. There were more little nuances as well, with shades of vanilla and white tea and acacia honey, then spicy mineral notes and just the tiniest little prick of citrus towards the finish. This is not quite as thrilling as the best examples of JJ Prum’s WS Aus, but it is a very well-made wine, especially in the context of its vintage. It needs time, probably another 6-8 years, but should do well when it sheds it puppy fat and the more complex nuances start coming to the fore. 92+

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• 2000 Nicolas Potel Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Boudots 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru

  I did not quite know what to make out of this wine. If I could put it this way, it was very “Potel” – well-made enough, drinkable enough, clearly showing 1er Cru quality, but somehow a bit pedestrian, as if the wine was somewhat less than the sum of its parts. The nose had a lot of earthy, savoury aromas of sous bois and umami chicken stock playing against a dark fruited background, with a little drift of dark flowers floating alongside. The mid-weight palate had a decent depth of black-fruit flavours held in slightly powdery tannins and good enough balance, with earthier, spicier notes then coming in at the finish. This had the sinewy, muscular feel that one would expect on an NSG, but I also thought it seemed to be rather on the rustic side. It lacked a bit of clarity, missing the transparency of flavours that I look for in great Burgundy and actually coming across a bit murky. Overall, decently good, but uninspiring. About time to start drinking as well.

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• 2002 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 90 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Julien

  Pleasant, but not fantastic. I liked the nose – its shades of sweet cassis, tea leaves and herbs playing against a backdrop of damp earth were classic Ducru-Beaucaillou. The palate was surprisingly soft and forward though, with a slightly muddled structure of cottony tannins and soft acidity framing otherwise pleasing, mid-weight flavours of cassis, tobacco and earth. Notes of spice and earth and tea leaves then trialed away in a finish of decent length. This was enjoyable – a fresh, elegant expression of St Julien, but it lacks the quality of the better Ducrus. One for early drinking I think.

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