BORDEAUX 2005 / Cabernet rules

Bordeaux
Tasted Wednesday, April 5, 2006 - Monday, April 10, 2006 by PanosKakaviatos with 800 views

Introduction

TASTING NOTES PART III
THE MEDOC: WHERE CABERNET RULES

Please take note, that these are older notes from barrel back in 2006, that I just felt like publishing 10 years on, to see how they compare to more recent impressions.

These final notes on wines from the Medoc
represent wines with the most Cabernet Sauvignon, albeit with exceptions. Indeed, the northernmost (St. Estephe) and innermost vineyards (Moulis, Listrac) to the left of the Gironde River, have high proportions of Merlot, because soils there tend to be heavier (more clay) and colder (further away from the river). Indeed, the closer one gets to the river, the more temperate the micro-climate and the greater the logic of using a later ripening grape like Cabernet Sauvignon. You do not want to grill your Merlot, now, do you? Of course this is simple logic, as there are exceptions, such as certain plots where Merlot does well – even if it is hotter – but the axiom is a good general rule. We will start with the mid range (Moulis, Listrac and Medoc) and end on higher notes with the major league appellations (Margaux, Pauillac, St. Estephe, and St. Julien), symbolized by the beautiful châteaux that accompany the
wines, such as the above photo of Château Pichon Baron, at the entrance of Pauillac.
Following a blind tasting of Pauillac, St. Julien and St. Estephe wines at Château Talbot, fellow journalist Florence Varaine – a veteran of blind tastings – told me that she had never had such pleasure tasting Bordeaux en primeur. Though 2005 is a uniform vintage, in that all appellations had success, I feel that the appellations with more Cabernet Sauvignon did best, just by a hair. The high ripeness of the vintage brought perhaps one slight risk, especially for those who harvested late, and that was over-ripeness of Merlot. Paul Pontallier of Château Margaux, for example, felt that the high alcoholic content in some Merlot was not suited for his first wine. Going back to the Merlot-majority Rive Droite tasting, some of the wines did taste over-extracted and alcoholic. On the other hand, almost all Cabernet-dominated wines seemed at least good. For me, Pauillac is the appellation of the vintage. If we are going to split hairs, because the others, particularly Margaux, were also of very high quality. Interestingly, some of the lower-ranked St. Estephes – with more Merlot – were less successful. Pauillac’s Château Latour gets my nod as wine of the vintage (tied with Pétrus, which is almost 100% Merlot, so it is not black and white) and both Rothschilds are very nice. In the blind tasting of Pauillacs, almost all wines were terrific with only a couple of exceptions, I re-tasted both and stayed disappointed with one, but reassured from the other. Nowhere else does one reach such heights, I think. Perhaps in Margaux

Flight 1 - Medoc, Listrac and Moulis AOC (10 Notes)

Tasted blind at Chasse Spleen

  • 2005 Château La Tour de By 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc

    (4/5/2006)

    Nice suave nose of forest strawberry and oak-derived toast, vanilla and hints of coffee. The palate is ripe and fresh with plum notes, but ripe plum. Tannins are granular; there is a good texture, but slight drying off at the back end. Overall, quite nice indeed! 89-91+

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  • 2005 Château Greysac 86 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc

    (4/5/2006)

    Commonly sold in U.S. supermarkets, Greysac has a nice nose of cherry and tobacco but the palate, while fruit-driven, is metallic and monolithic. Lacks breed... but aging in oak will likely lift it up. 86-87+

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  • 2005 Château Fonréaud 88 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Listrac-Médoc

    (4/5/2006)

    A slightly wet dog nose and quite oaky, too. But the palate is thankfully better. Full and fruity. An improvement from the above, at least. 87-88

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  • 2005 Château Fourcas Hosten 87 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Listrac-Médoc

    (4/5/2006)

    Slightly green notes, with some red fruit on the nose and a hint of plum. The palate is medium bodied and fruity but nothing very substantial either. 86-87+

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  • 2005 Château Fourcas Dupré 88 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Listrac-Médoc

    (4/5/2006)

    Slightly fuller nose than the above though still a tad green! Palate is tighter if fruity, with hints of chocolate on the better finish. Will likely improve with time in barrel. 87-88+

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  • 2005 Château Clarke 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Listrac-Médoc

    (4/5/2006)

    Oaky and creamy like Baileys cocktail on the nose – the most interesting in a while actually... The palate is like chocolate liqueur and quite full and tannic. Nice job! 87-90+

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  • 2005 Château Maucaillou 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Moulis en Médoc

    (4/5/2006)

    White flower, very toffee like, too. The palate is smooth, espresso-like, though there are also some drying tannins, but very good lift on the back end. Dominated by oak but not overwhelmed either. The palate has nice texture and a good finish. 89-91

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  • 2005 Château Chasse-Spleen 87 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Moulis en Médoc

    (4/5/2006)

    Smells almost like a Sauvignon Blanc, with bourgeon de cassis aromas, strangely bordering on green! The palate is tight and hard, but will soften with time in barrel. Normally a very fine estate!

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  • 2005 Château Poujeaux 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Moulis en Médoc

    (4/5/2006)

    The nose is fairly closed, but what lovely subtle expressions of cocoa and creamy cassis. The palate has a fine tannic texture and a good smooth finish. 90-92

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  • 2005 Château Potensac 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc

    (4/5/2006)

    A Medoc AOC made by the owner of Château Léoville Las Cases in St. Julien, Potensac is a very well known Medoc wine, and it did very well in 2005. A bit closed at first, then reveals good palate intensity, with fine grained tannins, deliciously fruity on the palate. Nice job. 89-91+

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Flight 2 - Haut Medoc AOC (10 Notes)

Tasted blind at Chateau Talbot

  • 2005 Château de Camensac 87 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc

    (4/5/2006)

    A cherry and cinnamon sweet nose, but the palate is slightly tasting like cherry cough syrup and the texture is a tad dry and alcoholic. 86-87+

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  • 2005 Château Coufran 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc

    (4/5/2006)

    Closed nose at first but then shows some wintergreen freshness. The palate is “wetter” than the above with a pleasing Indian Tonic like freshness, though a tad too tight? 88-89

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  • 2005 Château La Lagune 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc

    (4/5/2006)

    Warm apple and spice with some black currant jam on the nose. The palate has nice texture and is warm, not hot with nice underlying tannins and freshness, too. Smooth entry, smooth finish. Quite nice indeed! 90-91+

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  • 2005 Château Malescasse 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc

    (4/5/2006)

    Closed nose but palate reveals flavors of jammy cassis and possesses a pleasingly smooth texture, if not as corpulent as the above. Still, very smooth! 89-91

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  • 2005 Château Beaumont 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc

    (4/5/2006)

    A lush nose of blueberry jam! Palate is also very inviting and shares smoothness of the two previous entries though a tad dry on the back end and a shorter finish. 89- 90

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  • 2005 Château Citran 87 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc

    (4/5/2006)

    A woody nose and the palate is somewhat angular. There is fruit, but the tannins are also a bit dry and the tannins tough. Cross your fingers with aging. 86- 88+

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  • 2005 Château Cantemerle 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc

    (4/5/2006)

    Red cherries on the nose, then black cherries. Some vanilla spice, too. A very nice nose. Palate is medium- to full-bodied and initially quite attractive but perhaps thin on the finish and even some disturbing hints of green. 88-90

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  • 2005 Château La Tour Carnet 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc

    (4/5/2006)

    Blackberry jam Merlot nose with some minty freshness too, but also oddly synthetic. The palate is fresh, wet! With nice tannins and a fresh finish, this has a better palate than nose at this very early stage. 88-91

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  • 2005 Château de Lamarque 87 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc

    (4/5/2006)

    very espresso nose, oak-driven, precedes a palate with nice tannins but a bit drying on the finish, leaving an impression of excessive oak and also slightly alcoholic. 86-87+

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  • 2005 Château Belgrave 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc

    (4/5/2006)

    ubtle black fruit liqueur nose precedes a tightly wound palate, which is also full of meaty character – the tannins are brooding, leaving also an overall flavor of ripe plum-like fruit and a good finish, too. 90-92

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Flight 3 - Margaux AOC (18 Notes)

Tasted blind at Chasse Spleen

  • 2005 Château Monbrison 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    (4/5/2006)

    Nice, profound color, with a nose dominated by violets. The palate is has a choppy feel, but cherry flavors dominate. Finish is good. 89-91

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  • 2005 Château Rauzan-Ségla 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    (4/5/2006)

    At first tight and even a tad astringent with some unripe plum notes, but on the palate develops very pure dark cherry flavors and the texture shows quality tannins, a nice palate feel, if tight now. A wine that needs time and shows promise... 89-91+

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  • 2005 Château Ferrière 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    (4/5/2006)

    Nice, deep oak-derived but also violet and white flower aromas, very floral indeed, though the palate is a tad choppy and a bit hot on the back end. Still, a nice flavorful wine. 89-90+

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  • 2005 Château Labégorce 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    (4/5/2006)

    A dark cherry flavored palate, and a good one at that, rich and suave, with some chocolate notes on the finish. Nice! 91-92+

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  • 2005 Château Dauzac 88 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    (4/5/2006)

    An overly oaky nose... The palate is better, more fruit showing though there are drying tannins on the back end. 87-88

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  • 2005 Château Kirwan 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    (4/5/2006)

    A fruit basket nose of strawberry, cherry and raspberry; the palate at first a bit sour, showing tannic presence, but alive (not drying). Needs time to fill out. Nice. 89-91+

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  • 2005 Château Prieuré-Lichine 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    (4/5/2006)

    Nose of licorice, subtle. Palate a tad metallic, tightly wound. Sweetness of fruit but also a bit drying and woody... 88-90?

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  • 2005 Château d'Angludet 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    (4/5/2006)

    First nose of cinnamon, a bit musky, but palate has corpulence and a good tannic edge. A certain austerity but shows pleasing freshness as well. Overall very nice. 88-90+

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  • 2005 Château Siran 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    (4/5/2006)

    The nose is forest strawberry, and the palate is marked by rich plum flavors, with a full and nuanced texture. Later has some minerality and freshness and a very good finish! Excellent and a wine price conscious consumer’s must buy! 92-94

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  • 2005 Château Cantenac Brown 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    (4/5/2006)

    A tobacco and menthol nose, but the palate is tight and shows promising freshness and quite a bit of red – almost citrus like – fruit! Pleasing... 90-91

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  • 2005 Château Marquis de Terme 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    (4/5/2006)

    Very ripe black cherry nose with a hint of violets, and the palate is rich while also retaining freshness. A tad high on alcohol with a hint of synthetic flavors on the mid palate... but this is happily overshadowed by a nice texture. 90-92+

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  • 2005 Château du Tertre 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    (4/5/2006)

    Smells of espresso and milk chocolate! Palate is also rich, even voluminous, coating over the tongue, with oaky (sweet oak) flavors... Also somewhat hot and the alcohol is present. But not bad, depending on your taste. 88-90

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  • 2005 Château Giscours 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    (4/5/2006)

    A hint of green on the nose turns to fresh mint with some cookie dough. The palate is at first metallic but fills out on the mid palate, with ripe strawberry ripeness and some plum. A bit understated for the vintage. 89-90+

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  • 2005 Château Rauzan-Gassies 87 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    (4/5/2006)

    Agreeable nose of red cherry precedes a sweet attack on the palate, but which then turns tight and tannic. Despite some pleasing chocolate notes on the finish, the texture is angular. May likely round out with barrel aging... 86-88+

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  • 2005 Château Brane-Cantenac 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    (4/5/2006)

    Very pleasing nose of strawberry and ripe black cherry. Palate is fresh and rich, more rich, perhaps. A very long finish, very full-bodied, but retaining again a nice freshness – and intensity. Bravo! 91-94

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  • 2005 Château Malescot St. Exupéry 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    (4/5/2006)

    At first a rather closed nose, but then fragrant rose aromas precede a plum-like and rich palate, which seems just a tad alcoholic on the finish. Overall, quite nice. 91-92+

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  • 2005 Château Marquis d'Alesme 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    (4/5/2006)

    Hint of just ripe enough plum with some spice on the nose precedes a frank attack on the palate, which turns fresh and plum-like. Has a slightly hard edge however and also some alcoholic excess on the back end. Still, retains a freshness which balances it for the most part... 88-91

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  • 2005 Château Durfort-Vivens 88 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    (4/5/2006)

    A nose straddling the thin line between green and menthol... Thankfully also exudes a pleasing – to me at least – sweet cherry blossom/cherry cola flavor as well on the palate. In the end, the sweetness is slightly cloying, and the mentholated notes do not quite balance it out. And there is some green here. 86-89+

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Flight 4 - Chateau Margaux / 1st Growth (3 Notes)

Tasting with Paul Pontallier and owner Corinne Mentzelopoulos at Chateau Margaux / 1st Growth

Paul Pontallier said that 2005 belongs to “the family of the very best vintages.” He pointed out that he would like “nature to stop here” because the alcohol levels were at the very limit of what he likes from his terroir – and stressed that the highest alcohol Merlots (some reached up to 15.5°) either were not used at all or used in the second wine, Pavillion Rouge.

  • 2005 Pavillon Rouge du Château Margaux 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    (4/5/2006)

    Clocked in at ... 14%
    alcohol, with 48% Merlot, 48% Cabernet
    Sauvignon and 4% Petit Verdot, this wine showed a deep color and exuded plum-like fruit, with a fairly full body but also a tad simple in profile, and some drying tannins on the back end. Not one of my favorite second wines, actually. Left an impression of being one dimensional, but not without some appeal! 87-90+

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  • 2005 Château Margaux 96 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    (4/5/2006)

    Paul Pontallier said that 2005 belongs to “the family of the very best vintages.” He pointed out that he would like “nature to stop here” because the alcohol levels were at the very limit of what he likes from his terroir – and stressed that the highest alcohol Merlots (some reached up to 15.5°) either were not used at all or used in the second wine, Pavillion Rouge.

    A typically Cabernet dominated blend (88% Cab, 8% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot – which did very well in 2005 – and 10% Cabernet Franc), this wine hovers at about 13% alcohol – and Pontallier was at pains to say that anything 13.5 and above “could not be a fine wine here at Margaux” as excessive alcohol robs wine of nuance, he explained. A nice, deep color with a licorice nose. At first, I thought I caught some hollowness on the mid palate, with a certain just ripe enough plum-like austerity, but that was just a fleeting moment, as the wine literally enveloped the palate with rich red and black fruit flavors, from red cherry to black currant). Subsequent sampling with plenty of swooshing and slurping revealed a wine with freshness and flavor, with lots of perfumed floral elements as well, and never too thick – as I had found the 2003 en primeur – but also savory and with a long finish. Not my favorite First Growth (that honor goes to Latour) but living up very well to its status (and high price) 95-98

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  • 2004 Château Margaux 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    (4/5/2006)

    We also revisited the 2004 vintage, which I remember being rather (too) austere en primeur. Happily, one year later, it has filled out. Though dominated by oak at this stage, lovely violet aromas also emerged. Pontallier called the 2004 a “very good vintage.” I concur, though admit to being somewhat overly excited last year en primeur... 92-94+

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Flight 5 - Château Palmer (2 Notes)

Tasting with Bernard de Laage de Meux, development director
3rd Growth, officially, but often of higher quality (and price) than its rating...

  • 2005 Alter Ego 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    (4/10/2006)

    I normally get annoyed with this estate’ s Spiel about how Altar Ego is “not” a second wine. It is. It is made at least partly from grapes not selected for the first wine, which makes it a ... second wine. Enough of my rant. In 2005, Altar Ego gets my nod as one of the nicest second wines of the vintage I tasted. Despite its 14.2% alcohol – and 57% Merlot – this wine was fresh and round and tasty. The nose did show a hint of marmalade and slightly overripe plum, but not much, and it was actually quite peppery and spicy with a good round quality. If you must go after relatively high priced seconds, go for this one to get your money’s worth. 89-92

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  • 2005 Château Palmer 96 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    (4/10/2006)

    What a lovely nose. Its floral (violet) expression reminded me of the excellent 2004, but the nose was more complex than last year’s, with hints of fine licorice, plum and cherry pit plus mocha elements. On the palate, it is rather powerful – and despite the high atmospheric pressure of the day – it was tasting very nicely. Hats off to one of the best wines of the vintage, without question. 94-97

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Flight 6 - Saint Julien AOC (8 Notes)

Tasted blind at Chateau Talbot on April 5

  • 2005 Château Langoa Barton 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    (4/5/2006)

    Nuanced, lovely cassis nose precedes a delicate palate, yet possessing underlying depth and power, plus fruit flavors and minerality. Very nice – and more immediately pleasurable than the Leoville Barton – but not as complex! Tasted again at the chateau, with comparable notes. 91-93

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  • 2005 Château Beychevelle 87 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    (4/5/2006)

    A slightly licorice nose, but very closed. The palate is tight, then turns somewhat angular in its pleasant expression of black fruits, but not saying much at this stage! 86-88?

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  • 2005 Château Talbot 88 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    (4/5/2006)

    Slightly green aromas initially, then turns a little mentholated: close call! The palate is like fields of hay – in a good sense, and slightly herbal. The palate has a warm and supple feeling, but overall this wine is ho-hum within the context of the vintage. 87-89+

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  • 2005 Château Lagrange (St. Julien) 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    (4/5/2006)

    Nice red fruit nose with lots of strawberry; a tad tight on the palate yet shows substance lacking in the two prior wines – still tight and foreboding. Will likely open up with barrel aging, and I tend to be positive about this wine. 89-91+

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  • 2005 Château Gruaud Larose 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    (4/5/2006)

    very cinnamon and spice, with a smooth palate and solid tannic presence. Not incredible, but very good expression of fruit, though slightly metallic, with a fine finish. 90-92

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  • 2005 Château Léoville Barton 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    (4/5/2006)

    Red, brambly fruit with a fine tannic presence finishing on pleasing chocolate notes, but what impresses most in this wine is a brooding depth that promises much delivery with time, if not yet accessible. Tasted again at the chateau, with comparable notes. 92-93+

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  • 2005 Château Branaire-Ducru 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    (4/5/2006)

    Tasted at the chateau in early March and it was already very impressive, as tasted with the 2004 and 2003. Like a mélange of the two actually, with the evident bigness of the 2003 and the lovely and fresh elegance of the 2004. A real achievement for owner Patrick Maroteaux (92-94). Tasted blind at this tasting: I got a more tobacco nose, with notes of chlorophyll and a palate with “energy” plus plum-like fruit, finishing with a refreshing Indian Tonic like flavor. Intrigued by this wine! 91-93+

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  • 2005 Château Léoville Poyferré 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    (4/5/2006)

    A lovely nose of cassis and cedar precedes a smooth palate (malolactic fermentation in barrel helps for better barrel tastings), with nice “wet” tannins and a fine mineral aspect, showing both elegance and power. Very nice. 92-94

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Flight 7 - Chateau Léoville Las Cases (2 Notes)

At the chateau on April 10

  • 2005 Clos du Marquis 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    (4/10/2006)

    One should note that the day had high atmospheric pressure and it was fairly cool – not beneficial to tasting barrel samples. So the nose was expectedly closed! But the palate was “wet” with brambly fruit, yet focused. It also showed fine freshness – like the 2002 which I like so much – yet greater corpulence, and a good finish. Less than 50% Cab and with over 37% Merlot. Highly recommended second wine: far better than Pavillion Rouge, for example. It also has less alcohol, at 13.45%... 89-91+

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  • 2005 Château Léoville Las Cases 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    (4/10/2006)

    What a subtle nose of pure cassis!
    One detects the ... 87.6% Cabernet Sauvignon! Also hints of flowers. The palate has a smooth and subtle entry, then turns very fruity, again cassis, with tannins more noticeable than Latour, but one can compare the two neighbors, favorably. Not as sublime as the Latour, but very nice, with a long finish (bottle in photo,
    at left). Very nice! 93-94+

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Flight 8 - Chateau Leoville Barton (2 Notes)

With Lilian Barton on April 10

  • 2004 Château Langoa Barton 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    (4/10/2006)

    Nice color, nose of strawberry and black currant. It fills out on the palate, with a very thirst quenching quality I like so much in the best 2004s: very cranberry, very delicious. 90-92

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  • 2004 Château Léoville Barton 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    (4/10/2006)

    arker color, shows the natural concentration that comes from this wine’s better terroir, which includes the vines of the original Leoville estate: on deep gravely soil closer to the river... First nose is black currant, and second nose adds a dimension of spice. The palate is more ‘focused’ than that of Langoa, with more layers of flavor and greater stuffing on the mid palate. A lovely dark chocolate finish. Anyone who bought this will be happy. And if you have not, do not hesitate, now. I may go out and buy some when it becomes available on store shelves, probably a bargain, between the 03 and the 05 vintages... 92-93

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Flight 9 - Pauillac AOC (10 Notes)

Tasted blind at Chateau Talbot on April 5

  • 2005 Château Haut-Bages Libéral 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    (4/5/2006)

    Pure cedar like aromas and lovely fruit expression. Wet tannins, flavorful juice, with both corpulence and persistence and a linear focus of flavor with a fine finish. Lacks perhaps the depth and sublime finesse of the greats, but what a wine! When I found out it was HBL, I could not believe it. Let’s wait for the bottle tasting but from barrel, this is a wine to buy. 92-94+

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  • 2005 Château Croizet-Bages 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    (4/5/2006)

    A pleasing mixture of green tobacco and licorice. The palate is sweet and almost luscious, but also tannic. A tad hard perhaps. But it echoes the previous wine. Not as fine... 90-92

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  • 2005 Château Lynch-Moussas 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    (4/5/2006)

    Mint and cherry aromas, with a slightly metallic palate, but there is body here. Turns to notes of dark chocolate with mouth-coating tannins, though the finish is a tad short. Overall, good! 89-91+

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  • 2005 Château Pontet-Canet 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    (4/5/2006)

    An Oreo cookie nose! Then black currant, very ripe cassis. Palate is sweet, rich and wet, with some very ripe plum and an added freshness, with underlying depth, too. Very, very nice wine! 92-94+

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  • 2005 Château Batailley 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    (4/5/2006)

    Mineral, plum and cherries on the nose. The palate is supple with soft tannins, though it lacks some power compared to some others. Still, it has a mouth- coating quality that pleases and a fine finish. 90-93

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  • 2005 Château Clerc Milon 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    (4/5/2006)

    Wintergreen aromas with fine expression of cassis. The palate is mint-like with ripe black fruits and possesses a good tannic presence. 92-94

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  • 2005 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    (4/5/2006)

    A rather closed nose that with coaxing shows licorice elements. The palate is a bit austere in its expression of fruit, but shows brooding power underneath. Give this one time? 88-91+

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  • 2005 Château Grand-Puy Ducasse 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    (4/5/2006)

    Tasted like cassis fruit juice, sweet, with some ripe red cherry, too preceding a lovely, elegantly full palate with just nice enough tannic austerity for the long haul. Another surprise! 92-94

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  • 2005 Château Lynch-Bages 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    (4/5/2006)

    A deep violet nose with blackberry fruit, brambly. Palate is rich in its sweeping broadness! Very ripe fruit but with fine underlying tannic power, deceptively soft at first, but then shows really fine grip and good length. Bravo! 92-95

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  • 2005 Château d'Armailhac 85 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    (4/5/2006)

    A... vodka-like nose! Yes, alcoholic. Some licorice but this wine is not saying much, rather closed and ho-hum. 84-86.

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Flight 10 - Chateau Mouton Rothschild & Lafite Rothschild / 1st Growth (8 Notes)

Chateau Mouton Rothschild / 1st Growth
A lovely April 10 morning tasting at Chateau Mouton Rothschild / 1st Growth
I re-tasted the majestic Clerc Millon (shown at right) – the Pauillac to buy from the same owner of Mouton Rothschild (at left), if the price is right...

Lafite Rothschild / 1st Growth
Morning tastings continued on the right foot, next at Chateau Lafite Rothschild with winemaker Charles Chevalier (at right). Just as in 2004, the grand vin was not very expressive. Could have been the high pressure of the day, but he joked about critics sometimes going overboard with the adjectives en primeur. “A marathon runner will not reveal everything in the first 10 meters,” Chevalier said.

  • 2004 Château Mouton Rothschild 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    (4/10/2006)

    Just was fined (egg whites placed in barrels to reduce sediment), so a little weary. Will be bottled in June. Nose is dominated by oak- derived aromas, with hints of caramel. Palate is a tad reticent, a far cry from the fruit driven sumptuousness when tasted en primeur last year. Still, very fine! 92-95

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  • 2005 Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild 88 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    (4/10/2006)

    Tasted better at the chateau, but still slightly alcoholic. The nose is pastis/ouzo like, with similar flavor on the palate. 87-88

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  • 2005 Château Mouton Rothschild 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    (4/10/2006)

    A beautiful nose, spicy, cedar, with a concentrated yet also racy palate and lingering finish. A lovely Pauillac, made from vines averaging 50 years (no green harvesting in 2005) and made under the direction of my host at this morning’s tasting, Monsieur Polaert, who came from Lynch Bages to work at Clerc Millon in 2002. Lots of Merlot, but very flattering in its mid-level alcohol-level (13.1%) expression: 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot and 1% Carmanere! One of the Pauillacs of the vintage: 92-95

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  • 2005 Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild 86 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    (4/10/2006)

    First time tasted en primeur. Rough nose, some licorice, and a hint of wet sock. Choppy on the palate, though fresh. Not the best second wine this vintage... 85-87

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  • 2005 Château Mouton Rothschild 96 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    (4/10/2006)

    Another great Pauillac, with 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Merlot (last year’s only had 69% Cabernet Sauvignon and 13% Cabernet Franc), it had a more discrete nose than usual en primeur, much more discrete than last year. High atmospheric pressure perhaps restrained the wine’s expression. The palate was very solid, very concentrated, yet with velvety tannins and a very long finish with a note of dark chocolate. Just 13% alcohol, up one-tenth of a degree from last year. 94-97+

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  • 2005 Carruades de Lafite 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    (4/10/2006)

    clocking in at a mere – for this day and age – 13.2 degrees of alcohol and being all the fresher for it. I preferred this to Pavilion Rouge, the second wine of Chateau Margaux, for example, which was heavy handed in comparison, in its high octane Merlot – and slightly drying finish ... This wine has lots of Merlot, but the level remains at 13.2:48.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45.5% Merlot, 4.5% Cabernet Franc and the rest Petit Verdot. A refreshing second wine, showing substance with a medium-body, infused with fruit and freshness. Not the best of the top second wines (a tossup between Forts de Latour and Alter Ego), but a very good one! 89-91

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  • 2005 Château Duhart-Milon 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    (4/10/2006)

    Very Cabernet (71%) and also cool calm and collected. A subtle nose of mineral and licorice, not outspoken but very present, with a smooth palate and long finish. Time in glass reveals fat, but this wine is marked more by structure than exuberance. I give the edge (by a rather wide margin) to Clerc Millon! 90-92+

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  • 2005 Château Lafite Rothschild 95 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    (4/10/2006)

    A very delicate aroma of cedar and black currant emerge from the glass, but 20 minutes in glass bring forth light chocolate notes as well. The attack is discrete but enveloping. What impresses most is the sheer silkiness of this wine’s texture. There is richness, too, but not the brambly and somewhat obvious richness by comparison from the 2003, when I tasted that one en primeur two years ago. The 2005 is superior to the 2003 because – and this goes for many wines tasted in 2005 – there is greater nuance, elegance and especially freshness, but the richness is there, too. Chevalier said that the 2005 reminds him of the classicism of the 2004 and the “harmonious quality” of the 1996, but that the 2005 is fresher than either one. Only 12.9% alcohol. Very likely to improve in barrel. For now, 94-96

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Flight 11 - Chateau Pichon Longueville Baron (4 Notes)

Afterwards, I tasted the wines of Christian Seely – managing director of Pichon Longueville Baron, Pibran (cru bourgeois) in Pauillac, Suduiraut in Sauternes and Petit Village in Pomerol, at Chateau Pichon Baron. Later had lunch with Bill Blatch and a group of merchants.

  • 2004 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    (4/10/2006)

    The nose is dominated by subtle oak-derived notes of cedar, but with fresh fruit lurking as well. The palate is fresh and more approachable than he 2005, but one notices a slight thinness when compared to the 2005. Just a touch. Still, a very nice 2004! 90-93

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  • 2003 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    (4/10/2006)

    Matignon then let me taste the 2003, as I was interested in re-tasting it. ‘A vintage Americans like,’ he said. I certainly did... Very licorice, but also showing juicy fruit, cherries and black currant. The palate had a nice texture with added notes of cinnamon and even ripe red apple! Matignon, who has been making wine at Pichon Baron for at least 20 years, compared the 2003 to the 1989, while the 2005 is more like the 1990 and 2000. This wine is really sexy in its approachability but remains nicely structured, and shows no annoying marmalade notes from other wines of this vintage. No hesitation! 92-95

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  • 2005 Les Tourelles de Longueville 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    (4/10/2006)

    One of the very nice second wines in this vintage (which makes me think even more that the first wine will taste very nicely when in bottle), this Merlot-dominated (60%) wine showed nice texture, with finesse and flavors of ripe plum and cherry plus licorice. Nice! 89-91

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  • 2005 Château Pibran 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    (4/10/2006)

    This is a really nice Pauillac at the cru bourgeois level and a definite buy for price conscious buyers... With 65% Cabernet Sauvignon – the most in a long time from the vineyard which is half Merlot – this wine shows a lovely expression of fruit, plus freshness (no press wine used). The palate is slightly choppy, but very flavorful and certainly thirst quenching. A great wine for its class. 90-91+

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Flight 12 - Visit to Chateau Latour / 1st Growth (3 Notes)

  • 2005 Château Latour Grand Vin 98 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    (4/10/2006)

    tasted at the chateau at 3 p.m. after lunch with Frederic Ardouin, technical director, who compared the 2005 with the finesse of the tannins of the 2000 and the ‘rigorous style’ of the 2004, and perhaps with the ‘pure mineral quality’ of the 1985. Only 44% of the harvest was used to make Latour, very subtle in its expression of cedar, cassis and floral elements. Tasted unfortunately on a high pressure day, which rendered the wine a little less expressive than normal,
    something I noticed also at Chateau Lafite Rothschild and Mouton Rothschild, the same day... Anyhow, later I detected ultra fine milk chocolate notes, conveying a somewhat sweet palate – an added dimension to the 2004. Very ripe Cabernet was used for the wine (87% in the first wine, with 12% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot), but only at 13.35% alcohol. The texture on the palate is extremely polished, without being polite! This wine is the real deal, but extremely fine – like a Hermes tailored suit. The tannins are so finely cut; this wine is a synonym for smoothness. It also reminded of the 2004, also impressive for its pure linear expression of flavor, but with more opulence – that lovely chocolate finish. Quite a wine indeed. My selection for the Bordeaux of the Left Bank, if not for the entire vintage (Pétrus is the other worthy challenger)... 96-100

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  • 2005 Les Forts de Latour 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    (4/10/2006)

    the second wine, tasted better than some classified growths in Pauillac, it is that good. The 76% Cabernet Sauvignon is very ripe and expressive with strong notes of mineral and licorice. The chateau just recently bought 8 hectares of vines, four hectares averaging 40-50 years old near Larose Trintaudon and four near Grand Puy Lacoste, to incorporate into the second wine, which will gain in complexity. The palate is very fruity, with forest strawberry elements and more licorice. ‘We never had such high levels of alcohol at Latour,’ Ardouin remarked. Funny how relative the word is: 13.2% for this wonderful second wine. 90-93

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  • 2005 Pauillac de Latour 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    (4/10/2006)

    Because even the second wine is likely to be expensive, Latour produced one of its best third wines ever. The wine simply labeled Pauillac* exudes forest fresh aromas, brambly fruit and a slight hint of ripe green pepper – just enough to add complexity. The palate has structure but it also delectably rich. A wine to look out for, when on a budget! 88-90+

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Flight 13 - Tasting at Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse (2 Notes)

With winemaker Xavier Pallu

Facing Château Pichon Baron, just at the entrance to Pauillac and adjacent to Latour, is the Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse. The two Pichons were once owned by the same family, but have long since been divided into two separate estates. And the wines are made differently. The Comtesse is more feminine, aptly. Typically made with more Merlot, the wines here tend to be softer, but also of very high flavor intensity. Both Pichons were classified in 1855 as 2nd growths, just behind the top tier in the Medoc.

  • 2005 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    (4/10/2006)

    In 2005, the château used slightly more Cabernet than usual, about 64% plus 6% Cab Franc and 29% Merlot (1% Petit Verdot). Rather subtle inaroma, the wine builds up in the palate to reveal fine structure, depth and richness married with freshness, an archetype of the vintage. At this early stage, bordering on classic austerity, but I noted lovely licorice, violet and dark red fruit aromas and flavors, with a full bodied feel and a lingering finish. This is going to turn out special. 92-94+

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  • 2004 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    (4/10/2006)

    More forward than the 2005, this wine is going to be ready to drink sooner, and already reveals greater richness and pleasure on the palate than its younger sibling, but is not as complex. Lots of plum fruit with cedar aromas and flavors, but not quite as focused as the 2005. Still, because this vintage is somewhat forgotten between the freaky 03 and the super fine 05, this wine is worth looking for once in store shelves, if you are seeking higher end Bordeaux (53% Cab, 36% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot, 4% Cab Franc). 91-93

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Flight 14 - Tasting at Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste (2 Notes)

With Jean Xavier Borie, owner of both GPL and Haut Batailley

  • 2005 Château Haut-Batailley 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    (4/10/2006)

    Haut Batailley was good, but I was not overwhelmed. Made from cooler soils inside the appellation, this wine is traditionally more gently vinified to avoid extracting hard or even green notes in difficult years, thus earning a reputation of softness, more like a gentle Saint Julien rather than a robust Pauillac. This year, Haut Batailley’s cold soils were a good match for the dry weather, and the Cabernet Sauvignon was able to ripen properly – so much so that the wine is made up of 76% Cabernet, when it is usually around 65%. Exudes aromas of ripe black currant and just ripe enough plum, and is also flavorful if a tad edgy on the palate. 87-91

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  • 2005 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    (4/10/2006)

    a wine which I buy regularly for its moderate prices (in an expensive high-end Bordeaux sense) and fine expression of Cabernet Sauvignon, in a robust Pauillac fashion, was very good. A subtle nose of licorice and a hint of cocoa on the finish, like a mini Latour. I thought I detected a bit of alcoholic heat, but the second nose of flowers gave this wine a fresh lift as well. Overall, a very nice GPL with a typical blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon and 22% Merlot. 91-93+

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Flight 15 - St. Estephe AOC (6 Notes)

It is always a pleasure to drive up the hill leading to St. Estephe, as one sees the oriental style palace that is Château Cos d’Estournel. An impressive building, and an impressive wine: one of the two Super Seconds of St. Estephe (the two châteaux classed 2nd growths are Cos and Montrose). While I was very impressed with these two properties, the rest left me a tad under whelmed. But I did not get a chance to taste as many cru bourgeois (a class of wine that is officially just below the “classed growths” which go from 1st growth the 5th). Indeed, St. Estephe’s power comes from its multitude of cru bourgeois, which did so darn well in 2003. I was expecting similar glory from the ones I tasted in 2005, but that was not to be.
Tasted blind at Chateau Talbot

  • 2005 Château Lafon-Rochet 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

    (4/10/2006)

    Nose is cedar-like with menthol, very fresh. Palate also good, nice feel if not really supple. Still, good tannic grain and a nice finish. 89-92

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  • 2005 Château Phélan Ségur 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

    (4/10/2006)

    Heavy almost rubber-like nose... Palate is also hard and tannic on the attack though smoothens out later with a cherry drop taste and not too astringent overall. 88-90+

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  • 2005 Château Ormes de Pez 87 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

    (4/10/2006)

    A “diluted” nose, somewhat closed with hints of strawberry. The palate is okay, with notes of chocolate, but also a bit metallic with a choppy feel and a short finish. 86-87

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  • 2005 Château Ormes de Pez 86 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

    (4/10/2006)

    A “diluted” nose, somewhat closed with hints of strawberry. The palate is okay, with notes of chocolate, but also a bit metallic with a choppy feel and a short finish. 86-87

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  • 2005 Château Cos Labory 88 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

    (4/10/2006)

    Tobacco nose with hints of green, however. Palate is a tad aggressive with its tannins, which may settle down later. Good overall. 87-88+

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  • 2005 Château Beau-Site 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

    (4/10/2006)

    Probably the best St. Estephe I tasted outside the two stars (alas, I did not get a chance to taste Calon Segur, the well-known 3rd growth). A nice cassis nose precedes a fruity strawberry palate. A nice feel on the palate, with integrated tannins. Also, a very good price/quality ratio. 91-92

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Flight 16 - Château Cos d’Estournel (3 Notes)

Château Cos d’Estournel at the château on April 10
Tasted with Jean-Guillaume Prats, owner

  • 2005 Château Marbuzet 85 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

    (4/10/2006)

    This was like some of the other St. Estephes I tasted blind, a bit hard and tannic with a nose that was somewhat off putting (nail polish). Also alcoholic. 84-85

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  • 2005 Les Pagodes de Cos 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

    (4/10/2006)

    The “second wine” of Cos, and successful. Half Merlot, half Cabernet, it revealed plum fruit and violets with even a citrus like freshness and a sprightly feel on the palate. A very good second wine. 88-90

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  • 2005 Château Cos d'Estournel 96 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

    (4/10/2006)

    More Cabernet than is
    usual for this estate (78%), this vintage is going to be
    really special – and probably counts among my top ten Bordeaux of the vintage. A closed first nose reveals (after swirling in glass) an elegant nose of cassis and cedar with very ripe blackberry and violet once tasted. A rich palate, opulent, with mouth coating tannins and a velvety finish. Top stuff. 95-97

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Flight 17 - Chateau Montrose (2 Notes)

Chateau Montrose at the château, April 10
With winemaking director Philippe de Lagarigue

  • 2005 La Dame de Montrose 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

    (4/10/2006)

    A very nice second wine, made from 54% Cabernet and 46% Merlot, it is plum-like and smooth, with an intriguing ashes like aroma and good finish. 89-91

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  • 2005 Château Montrose 95 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

    (4/10/2006)

    What a difference between the Montrose and the Cos, the two stars of St. Estephe. Montrose tends to be less showy, less velvety when young, but more brooding. This was a case in point. The first impression was of tannic bite, but then I realized the sheer power of this wine with a focus not unlike that at Latour. With 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 31% Merlot (plus a bit of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot), this wine showed backbone, and will certainly turn out to be something special after its barrel aging. Still, not as impressive as the Cos this year. 93-96

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