Weekend Whites

Tasted Saturday, February 26, 2005 - Sunday, February 27, 2005 by The Wine Bum with 595 views

Introduction

Over two dinners sampled the following White Burgundy's, concentrating on the Maconnais with a Puligny as comparison.

Flight 1 (4 Notes)

  • 1999 Olivier Merlin Mâcon La Roche-Vineuse Vieilles Vignes

    France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Mâcon La Roche-Vineuse

    (2/27/2005)

    Wow, this is a revalation. Bought for £7 a while back and a steal on this showing. Old vine depth and fruit concentration - honey, peach and lemon - a swathe of minerality and delicious bright acidity. The real revelation is the length of this, it persists well above its stasion. Head and shoulders above the other Macon tasted and on a par with the Puligny.

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  • 1999 Domaine Cordier Père et Fils Pouilly-Fuissé Au Metertiere

    France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Pouilly-Fuissé

    (2/26/2005)

    I bought a case of this that seemed like a good idea at the time, it tasted great in late 2000, but everyone of the bottles from this case has not been up to scratch. It seems to have fallen apart in a couple of years. This is jot me first experience with Cordier not delivering, his 1998's also stared out great but were all dead and subsumed by oak by 2001, I think the 1999's are heading the same way based on this experience.
    The first bottle was oxidized (the second from the case) the second bottle despite being the best I've tasted as still very poor, disjointed, overbearing oak, hollow fruit and an unpleasant bitter finish. It could be a weird phase but I'm not convinced. Give me the Merlin everyday of the week, and the Bret Bros Vinzelles on weekends.

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  • 1999 Verget Pouilly-Fuissé La Roche Terroirs de Vergisson

    France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Pouilly-Fuissé

    (2/27/2005)

    This was perfectly decent without being exceptional, probably a little disappointing given the quality of the vintage in the Maconnais and the fact this is one of Guffens, gold labelled 'top' cuvees. It was just a tad lean and dull with one-dimensional fruit and no 'vergissons' identity. It was perfectly drinkable, but i just felt it needed more stuffing and verve.

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  • 2000 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Perrières

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

    (2/26/2005)

    After an underwhelming Maconnais performance (the Merlin excepted) it was good to see the pride of the Beaune punching its weight. This was proper white Burgundy, clean, focused, mineral infused deliciousness. It stared out quite tight, crisp and citrussy before blooming after half an hour with some outrageous melon and tropical fruit notes that seemed more Californian than Burgundian. Girardin does like a bit of oak, but thankfully stays away from the dark side by not over-doing it. A great bottle that would probably benefit from another year in the bottle.

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Closing

In conclusion, Merlin is Macon magician and the overall winner his Vineuse VV is a case purchase wine. Whilst Girardin confirms his place as one of the better value Burgundian producers as well as one of its more talented winemaker, both red and white.

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