Saturday night with friends

Dinner with one other person and then four others joined us after. In all, spent more than 4 hours at the restaurant.

Shrimp and avocado tower, veal meatballs and escargot - all good.

• 1989 Hans Kramp Riesling Cooper's Wine

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Swirly enjoyed and appreciated for its old school style Riesling character. A touch of balancing sweetness, mellow, vibrant acidity and mature fruit. Lovely to sip and excellent with a variety of dishes and cheeses.

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• 2005 Domaine J Coudray-Bizot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

  At first I thought this was just tight but as it unwound it became bizarre. The nose was dominated by ash. There was an occasional glimpse of the quality of this vineyard but it never sustained.

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Duck in a red wine mushroom sauce (a bit dry and flabby skin) and rack of lamb with pistachio crust

• 1994 Azienda Agricola Montevertine Le Pergole Torte Toscana IGT

  Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

  Cork slightly raised. The fruit remains strong, forward and youthful. Ample acidity but even more tannins that clamp down until sufficient aeration. Structure is formidable. In time, earth and more secondary flavors intermix. I am inclined to think this can improve but will the tannins ever recede? Nonetheless, this was at least very good.

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• 2004 Fattoria Le Pupille (Elisabetta Geppetti) Saffredi Toscana IGT

  Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

  First bottle was flawed. In need of more time, dense and redolent of olives. Didn't budge much through the night but suggested more terroir than I get from most non-indigenous Italian varieties.

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Roquefort (too sharp), aged goat and pecorino supposedly truffled

• 2002 Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru

  France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru

  Lovely unctuous body. Short finish at first, in time it spread out and showed less overt honey. This was nice with cheeses but was a delight to sip on its own even after all the evening's food and wine.

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