2013 Comte de Vogüé Masterclass Tasting at La Paulée

This was a wonderful chance to taste through 4 of the 2013 Vogüé wines with expert commentary provided by Jean-Luc Pépin from the domain. I have kept these notes separate from the rest of my notes on the 2013's from today's Grand Tasting since we were able to spend a full hour assessing them, a much more in depth, contemplative experience than the somewhat frenzied, speed tasting later in the day. I must say that the Vogüés set a very high bar in terms of interest, refinement, and complexity for the wines that followed them.

• 2013 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

  Clear ruby. Cranberry and floral tones are joined by a touch of fennel, spice, small red berries-really aromatic with the most fruit in all 4 wines. Red and blue fruit rise in the nose. Medium weight, a fine sheen of soil, and the only wine in which the fruit approaches frank sweetness. Very tart due to mid to late palate acidity but lovely body and feel. Pretty substantial and mouth coating despite retaining some Chambolle lightness. Over time, the acid and earth dominate the moderately long finish. Give this one at least 5 years.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2013 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

  Perfectly clear ruby, slightly lighter color than the 1er Cru. Scents of tart red fruit, some blackberry, soil, and camphor. High toned, fine, and precise. Slightly lighter weight, similar strong soil coating in the mouth. Earth driven muddled red fruit that is not quite as sharp as the 1er Cru although zesty acidity gives it a similar cranberry tone. More delicate, becomes more tannic with air. Great soil cling and persistence at the end. My word, a beautiful terroir wine that is so refined and able to stop short of seeming austere. This needs a good 10 years.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2013 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Bonnes Mares

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

  Deeper ruby. Deeply pitched nose that gives the sense of meatiness and the ever present soil. Fascinating array of menthol, florality, ripe red and blue fruit, and significant spice. More somber than the others. Medium bodied but more generous, mouth coating, and sappy than any of the others. More blue/red fruit and chewiness here but still great focus. Crisp acidity that is not quite as strident, round tannins, and a rising soil filled finale. This is deceptively approachable now for its relative roundness compared to the rest of the range, but there is plenty of acidity and tannin lurking underneath to carry this for decades. Wonderful wine and such an interesting contrast to the 3 Chambolle-based bottlings.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2013 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru

  Deep ruby, the darkest of the bunch. Riveting, deep, refined, complex aromatics-mint, a ton of soil, and then some late appearing baked cherry. Sinuous and penetrating scents that become even more seductive and smoky as it sits out. Fabulously elegant feel, lighter weight than the Bonnes Mares. This wine is more about the terroir than almost anything I've ever drunk. In fact, the tart blue fruit almost seems to serve as the backbone for the wine, and from this, the soil just pours forth, making for a fascinating interplay. Lower acidity than the 1er Cru and Amoureuses, indescribable fading finish. Perhaps the tannins taste slightly underripe, but that is quibbling. The Musigny is the most complete and amazingly complex wine of the range tasted today.

  Post a Comment / 2 people found this helpful, do you? Yes - No / Report Issue