Dinner with Jeffrey and Alberto at the Osteria Dei Sognatori, Alba

Andrew, Thierry and I joined Jeffrey and Alberto di Grésy at the excellent, lively Osteria Dei Sognatori in Alba.

We had brought our own wines and warmed up with an excellent 2013 Vigneti Boveri Giacomo Timorasso Berthona. It had a chalky, steely Chablis-like quality on the nose and lovely, bright acidity on the palate. It was refreshing and well focussed with chalky and steely flavours and touches of honey. "Mineral in the mouth and always clean" said Jeffrey.

Next was Jeff's 2011 Azienda Agricola Bera Rabajà Riserva. He said that Bera had only recently bought a plot in Rabajà. It had seen only neutral oak. It was fragrant and aromatic with plenty of dark berries and violets on bouquet. Very young, it also showed dark, luxuriant fruit on palate, with serious, grippy tannins on the back. "Cherries under spirit" said Jeff.

Next we drank ...

• 2005 Weingut Knoll Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Loibenberg

  Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau

  Jeff brought this excellent Gruner. Some reduction on opening. A beautiful, complex bouquet of white pepper, mint, mixed herbs, nuts and smoke. Viscous, honeyed, complex and nutty in the mouth. Not a lot of acidity, but mineral and malic, ripe and rich. Clean and pure. Very good. There now for drinking.

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• 2009 Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy Barbaresco Martinenga

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  Jeff introduced the 2009 as "drinking the best of the Marchesi di Grésy wines at the moment". Great aromatics of luxuriant, ripe dark fruit and florals. Linear on palate. Sleek, satiny dark fruit, cassis and liquorice. Soft, refined tannins. A wine to drink sooner rather than later, I'd think.

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• 1995 Vietti Barolo Lazzarito

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Popped and poured. Light colour. Beautiful aromatics. Roses, red currants, dried brushwood and gentle spices. Sweet entry, then elegant and fresh with soft, mellowed, round tannins. Earthy with dried red fruit. Just a beautiful, mature Barolo. Both Jeff and Alberto picked it as a '98 Barbaresco (and it showed the refinement of a top quality Barbaresco). It paired very well with the butter and sage ravioli. Finishing the last glass the next day, it was still drinkable but the fruit had slipped away a little, exposing the acids. Not a wine for a long decant.

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• 1974 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  Popped and poured. Initially wet wool and hay, then lavender, dry earth, dried and preserved red fruit and some citrus zest. In the mouth, a gorgeous, mellow, mature Nebbiolo. "Very composed" said Jeff, it was very poised and balanced. Earthy with cacao, orange peel and Campari. Some fruit sweetness but attractive mushroomy savouriness and Balsamico umami. Acidity and tannins well integrated. Lovely but a modest wine ("Franco" said Alberto). Jeff thought it was from the 1980s and Alberto the 1970s, but neither went back as far as 1974. Jeff said it was the freshest 1974 he had ever had. I mentioned the bottle to Aldo Vacca who was not surprised, describing 1974 as a "good, powerful vintage" from which many Normales were still drinking well.

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We left the Osteria happy to go out to enjoy the Alba street party ...