Excess

Tasted Saturday, January 28, 2017 by salil with 471 views

Flight 1 - The whites (10 Notes)

  • 1991 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Rosé Brut 87 Points

    France, Champagne

    Rather advanced, with a butterscotch/caramel-like note to the aromas but some sweet red fruits and pastry dough flavours beneath. Good, but certainly feels on the downswing.

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  • 2010 Joseph Drouhin Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

    Beautiful wine. Focused, elegant, and long with bright citrus and pear fruit accented with layers of chalky minerality, florality, and some popcorn-like notes. Impeccably balanced with bright acids giving it good lift, and a long finish.

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  • 2014 Domaine Servin Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

    Another fine bottle of this. Classic Chablis flavours, with tart lemony fruit served over a base of pure stone, with herbal and lightly floral scents emerging with more air. Lean, razor sharp on the palate, and very easy to drink.

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  • 2009 Domaine Comtesse de Cherisey Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Hameau de Blagny 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

    This is fantastic. There's the power and the richness I'd expect from Meursault, with layers of ripe fruit, minerality, popcorn, faintly reductive smoky and flinty notes all coming together on the nose and palate, and a really polished, almost glossy texture. It's a ripe wine, but carried well by its bright acidity and finishes very long.

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  • 1996 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

    This just rocks. No sign of premox here; it's still incredibly light in the glass and very fresh, with a core of tart lemon and pear fruit augmented with an array of more mature white truffle, butter, vanilla cream, and chalky notes. It's incredibly light on its feet with powerful acidity beneath, finishing very long. Superb.

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  • 2005 Domaine Ponsot Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Clos des Monts Luisants Vieilles Vignes 82 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru

    Wasn't a fan of this. Found it much too ripe, with the fruit flavour moving into banana/tropical territory, the oak sticking out a bit on the back end, and finishing rather warm.

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  • 2007 Maison Leroy Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Embrazées 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

    Oh man, this is something. Hard to put the aromatics into words - there's a perfumed intensity here, with an array of fresh herbs, flowers, rainwater, and more opulent vanilla custard notes on the nose, and rich citrus and faintly tropical fruit flavours beneath. Fantastic balance with bright acids keeping it very fresh, and a long, stony finish.

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  • 1993 Domaine de L'Arlot Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos de l'Arlot Blanc 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

    Total Soil-to-Glass-Transfer wine, to steal a term from JLL. Vivid stony, flinty, and rainwater scents lead into a palate full of citrus fruit that's still very fresh and lively, with more savoury creamy and faintly burnished notes coming through on the back end.

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  • 2002 Bouchard Père et Fils Montrachet 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru

    Ripe and opulent, with lots of rich citrus, apple, peach, and more exotic tropical fruit flavours at its core, accented by stony minerality, faint floral notes, and a strong oaky topnote. There's incredible depth and complexity here, though the oak is a touch distracting.

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  • 1999 Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet 95 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

    Wowsa. This is from magnum, still seems incredibly youthful with some matchstick reduction on the nose, and layers of white truffle, chalky minerality, vanilla butter, and an array of ripe orchard fruit beneath. A beautiful palate presence - broad and rich with a glossy texture, yet it never feels heavy or overbearing. Stunning wine, with a finish that just keeps going on long after each sip.

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Flight 2 - The reds (a few of them) (5 Notes)

  • 2001 Domaine Pavelot (Jean-Marc et Hugues) Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru La Dominode Flawed

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru

    Corked.

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  • 1997 Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Domaine Louis Jadot 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

    Lovely wine, full of rich red and dark berried fruit, black cherry, savoury earth, and the start of maturing leather and mushroomy notes. Lots of depth and complexity here with a beautiful savoury scent, a polished texture on the palate, but still plenty of tannin on the back end suggesting this could use a bit more time.

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  • 1988 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru

    A rather burly, low toned expression of Musigny here - it doesn't have the huge soaring red fruited aromatics and florality I'd expect; rather it's dominated by layers of savoury earth, leather, ripe dark fruited flavours, and more exotic sandalwood and mushroomy notes. The texture is pure Musigny though - incredibly graceful and silken with some gentle, fine grained tannin still lingering on the back end. Stunning wine.

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  • 2000 Domaine Leroy Corton-Renardes 96 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru

    Bottle #0180. This is pretty damn amazing. Stunning, soaring aromatics here - an intoxicating perfume of ripe red fruits, kirsch, violets, high toned herbal notes, and more savoury stemmy and earthy notes that keep emerging and evolving with air. I kept a glass of this to follow through most of the dinner, and the aromatics just kept getting better. The palate is just as impressive - immensely ripe and fruit-forward, yet showing tons of complexity and depth with a beautiful silken palate presence, and amazing length.

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  • 1978 Comte Armand Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux 98 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru

    Absolutely amazing wine. I could have sat and smelled this for hours, if it didn't taste so spectacularly good. The aromatics are incredible - bright floral and red fruited scents with plenty of freshness to the flavours, and more savoury iron, leathery, earthy, and black truffle notes around it. There's impressive intensity and brightness on the palate, though the fruit's in the background as the more complex, developed iron, leathery, and truffled notes dominate. One of the best Burg experiences I've ever had.

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Flight 3 - Dessert (2 Notes)

  • 2013 Joh. Jos. Prüm Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 94 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    This is phenomenal, and makes me regret not getting more '13s from Prüm. Stunning aromatics with the familiar whiff of sulfur and sponti yeast funk, an array of ripe fruit ranging from apple and lime to more exotic guava and melon flavours, and higher toned herbal and pine needle accents that keep emerging with air. The sweetness is surprisingly restrained - it comes across with the sweetness and richness of a Spätlese with powerful acidity buffering the sugar, but the length, balance, and overall depth here are amazing.

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  • 1998 Wittmann Westhofener Steingrube Albalonga Beerenauslese 90 Points

    Germany, Rheinhessen

    Much better than my last experience with this. Lots of rich apricot, melon, and other tropical fruits drizzled with honey, creme brulee, and high toned chili pepper and horseradish-like spicy notes; intensely sweet and rich, but carried by powerful acidity that keeps it very fresh and lively.

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Flight 4 - After (4 Notes)

  • 1991 Franz Hirtzberger Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Honivogl 91 Points

    Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau

    A good showing, though not on the level of the last bottle I opened. The fruit here is a bit more understated, and it's very tertiary - dominated by savoury porcini and other mushroom flavours, earthy notes, and some green herbal/leafy accents, with the tart citrus and green apple flavours lingering in the background. Still very fresh though and nicely balanced with good acidity, but not showing the depth or length of my last bottle.

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  • 2008 Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Blanc de Blancs Heurtebise 93 Points

    France, Champagne

    Awesome wine. Powerful, layered, and very long with an array of ripe citrus and pear fruit accented by fresh baked biscuit, vanilla cream, and bright floral and mineral notes that keep emerging with more air. It's a rich, powerful wine, but the acids give this a remarkable sense of lightness and focus on the palate, and it finishes with impressive length.

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  • 2003 Domaine Dujac Echezeaux 90 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru

    Massively ripe in its fruit profile - very dark fruited and rich, though showing that Dujac signature of intense stemminess, exotic floral/spicy scents, and flashy oaky notes on the nose. It's definitely riper than I typically like my Burgundy, but it's still very enjoyable with surprisingly bright acids giving it good lift and freshness, and impressive length to the finish.

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  • 2015 Schloss Lieser Niederberg Helden Riesling Spätlese 95 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    Electric. This is just flat out amazing with an array of ripe peach, tangerine, and mandarin orange fruit at its core, augmented by bright florality and an intense, vivid expression of slate and stone beneath. The acidity here is absolutely insane though but never overwhelming or sharp, and keeps it unbelievably light and vibrant while giving it an incredible sense of freshness. This is a wow wine, and I'm glad I have more.

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