Petite Sirahs in the Desert

As usual, the Greenblanket’s annual July visit to the desert involved some themed wine consumption. This summer the big event was a Petite Syrah-a-thon which was a perfect match for the wine interests of the group: Mrs. ‘Old World’ Brother In Law loves ports and big over the top wines; Greenblanket, ever the ostentatious and foodie wine geek, has become interested in historical American old vine wines; and Mrs. Greenblanket, always the good sport, was simply along for the ride with a bemused look permanently affixed to her lovely countenance. (The OWBIL was home working to support the desert dilettantes).

We chose three excellent Napa Petites and enjoyed them with dinner and by the pool over two days. All three were at their best on day two.

• 2004 Robert Biale Petite Sirah Royal Punishers

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  This was a full, deep inky, stem staining purple black in the glass. Black fruit, chocolate, heirloom roses and alcohol dominated the nose. The palate was even more richly fruited and port-like than the Thomann Station but not as deep and layered. The finish was long with gum sucking tannin. I really believe that this will come into balance someday. A delicious example of a big, brawny Cali Petite.

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• 2003 Robert Biale Petite Sirah Thomann Station

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Inky almost black in the glass and featuring a somewhat restrained nose of dark black fruit and molasses. This wine was massive, intense, concentrated and mouth coating on the palate with deep rich layers of unspeakably black fruit. Silky smooth ripe tannin and more of the luscious black fruit highlighted the long, long finish. Hedonistic, sexy and dare I say slutty this wine would be perhaps best enjoyed with a big cigar in a deep leather chair.

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• 2004 Stags' Leap Winery Petite Sirah

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  This traditionally made, restrained offering featured currents, blackberries, shaved chocolate and glazed ham on the nose. The palate was big with black currents, dark wild berries and a lovely, juicy acidity. Dusty tannin, sweet black fruit and bitter chocolate defined the long finish. This was fiercely tannic and I hope it will age as well as the 98 that I recently enjoyed. Excellent!

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The results were predictable:

Greenblanket very much preferred the claret like Stags’ Leap,

Mrs. OWBIL, true to the tastes of the great man himself, loved the port-like Biale offerings,

Mrs. Greenblanket who professes to know nothing but has the best sense and palate of the group said, “Petite Sirahs are delicious”.