Visit to Domain Vincent Dauvissat-2015 Chablis

Chablis, France
Tasted Friday, April 28, 2017 by drwine2001 with 312 views

Introduction

Vincent Dauvissat had the usual twinkle in his eye and seemed to be in remarkably good spirits in the midst of dealing with a late spring frost, Chablis' latest climatologic disaster. How can you not love a man who deflects questions about his wines by saying "I'm a vigneron, not a journalist"? Despite his modesty, his insights about Chablis are well worth hearing, but the wines also do a pretty great job of speaking for themselves. Going into this tasting (and others of 2015 French whites), I feared the worst, given the reputation of the vintage as plumper and softer, but having witnessed the domain's success in vintages such as 2005 and 2009, I should have known better. The man is simply a magician. Most of the 2015 wines here had the precision and cut that other producers would be thrilled to achieve even in more classic, higher acid vintages such as 2014. Long live Vincent Dauvissat (and his vines!).

Flight 1 (8 Notes)

  • 2015 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Petit Chablis

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Petit Chablis

    More mineral salts than lemon. Light and precise.

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  • 2015 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis

    France, Burgundy, Chablis

    Dull yellow. Floral, orange aromatics. Slightly lower acidity and less cut than the Petit Chablis. Medium weight, round, full of soil, moderate length, and its salinity appears at the end.

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  • 2015 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru Séchet

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

    Strong iodine and seashell. Rounder, slightly glycerine entry that then gives way to a lean finish with spicy herbal tones and raging minerality. Absolutely classic. Sechet is never generous, and this was true to form, even in this year that produced some pretty rich wines. Truly a Chablis for Chablis lovers, and a bit of a throwback to days gone by.

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  • 2015 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

    Light color. Fragrant orange peel. Leaner, lighter, and more mineral than I usually find Vaillons-perhaps it's trying to do its best imitation of Sechet. While the fruit/acid balance is excellent, this wine is mostly about rising stoniness that has amazing palate persistence and cling. Mouthwatering and exciting to taste. I loved this, even more than the Forest this year, I must say.

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  • 2015 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru La Forest

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

    After the Vaillons, lower pitched citrus fragrance. Riper, more glycerine, less stony than that wine. Bitter citrus and lots of soil in the mouth, serious and long. I have been spoiled by having so many great bottles of La Forest. This one is certainly at least excellent and is the biggest of 3 Premier Crus (we were not shown Montée de Tonnerre), but today it seemed subdued and did not outclass Sechet or Vaillons as it usually does. However, I know better than to underrate it given its performance over the years in vintages like this one, and I wouldn't be surprised to be singing a different tune years down the road.

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  • 2015 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

    Complex iodine and sea breeze aromas-this could only be Chablis! Elegant middle weight, intensely salty, some bright citrus, and a dizzying, rocky finish that packs incredible punch and reverberates in the mouth. Wow, just amazing drive. With Dauvissat Preuses, it always seems to be primarily about the unique Chablisien terroir, and the fruit takes a back seat to play a balancing rather than primary role.

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  • 2015 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

    Forward, high toned floral and orange oil scents. Round, rich citric entry complicated by iodine and oyster shell. Acidity seems average and definitely lower than in the Preuses. Soil runs through the mid-palate and carries through to a long, dusty finish that brings the wine to an abrupt finish. Already complex, but not as powerful or energetic as it can be, but it is still very early to fully judge this.

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  • 2000 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

    Tasted blind. Quite an astounding gesture of generosity to open this rarity for us. Medium to deep yellow. Truffle and mushroom abound. Medium weight, actually leaning toward the lighter side. Although there are more mature elements, there is still a good bit of citrus remaining as well as a coating of stone and zingy acidity that provides nice bite at the end. Because of the lighter weight, I guessed Petit Chablis-how embarrassing to be in the presence of one of the world's greatest winemakers and mistake a Grand Cru wine for the most humble wine in the range. Oh well, at least I was closer on the age, thinking 1999 because of the fully mature aromas and high acidity. By the way, if this is how the 2000 Preuses is showing at the source, it's probably advisable to drink up any remaining stock.

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