2017 New York Wine Experience Trip
New York City, NY
Tasted Monday, October 16, 2017 - Wednesday, October 25, 2017 by La Cave d'Argent with 2,859 views
Introduction
For wine and food aficionados, there is nothing quite like a trip to New York City, especially when it includes attendance at the Wine Spectator New York Wine Experience. We look forward to our regular October trip, always allowing enough time before and after the event to ensure that we can enjoy Manhattan’s sublime restaurants and Broadway plays.
The Marriott Marquis is located in the heart of Times Square, within easy walking distance of Broadway theatres and countless dining establishments. It is a large, well-appointed hotel with numerous computer-directed glass elevators, conveying similar “energy” to the hustle and bustle outside of its front doors. This is where the New York Wine Experience is held and accordingly is the best lodging option for those attending the event. As in previous years, our room overlooked Times Square, providing the New York verve that we so much enjoy. 
Flight 1 - MONDAY, OCTOBER 16, 2017 (DINNER AT MAIALINO) (1 Note)
Based upon the recommendation of a native New Yorker who now lives in La Jolla, we elected to dine at Maialino. Located within the Gramercy Park Hotel, it is a casual but elegant Italian restaurant highlighting Roman cuisine. Part of Danny Meyer’s Union Square Hospitality Group, it is a no-tipping establishment that is comprised of four distinct areas: Bar Maialino (the front area) is walk-in only, the Trattoria dining room (reservations accepted), the Wine Counter (which hosts intimate wine events and impromptu tastings) and the Private Dining Room (which accommodates special events).
As the wine counter was hosting a private tasting, we elected to sit in the bar area, which was comfortable, energetic and offered the same menu as all four areas of the restaurant. Our server was friendly, unpretentious, attentive and extremely knowledgeable about the menu. We began with cocktails, which were mixed beautifully and served promptly. I ordered a classic Beefeater martini and my wife enjoyed a traditional negroni.
On the evening of our visit, Chef Jason Pfeifer’s creative menu included testarella al maialino (crispy suckling pig’s head), which was as good as it gets. The moist cheek meat, flavorful snout and crispy ears were beautifully seasoned and textured. This was a knockout!
I ordered the puntarelle salad (winter chicory with anchovy and red wine vinegar). This was fresh and delectable.
Maialino has an extensive wine list, heavily invested in Italian gems from all regions. A relatively low percentage of the wines are less than $100. Given the depth and breadth of the list, I solicited the sommelier’s assistance. Wine Director Jenni Guizio was busy with the private tasting in the wine bar area, so we were helped by one of her assistants. I asked him to select a red that would pair well with our entrées, giving him a “ballpark” price range of $150. He suggested the ’99 Eraldo Viberi Barolo Riserva, (which was listed for $185) and I agreed. The bottle was inspected and decanted, but the decantation process was not at our table. I have no doubt that we were served the correct wine when he brought the filled decanter, but I never did view his decanting technique.
The Viberti was feminine, delicious and paired nicely with the testarella. I elected to defer the wine while consuming my vinegar-laden puntarelle salad, for which my martini was a better match.
Our entrées were nothing short of spectacular. Seasonal white truffles were offered at a hefty (but reasonable) upcharge, which my wife elected to order. Making the truffles the star of the dish, they were shaved on top of simple cavatelli with butter.
I was thrilled with my bucatini all’amatraciana, which was perfectly al dente and piquant.
The Viberti Barolo paired beautifully with both entrées. Unfortunately, before we had completed our dishes, our wine essentially “ran out.” This is because a substantial portion of the bottle was marred by bitter sediment, becoming evident as the decanter was emptied. Despite being 18-years-old, the wine had clearly been splash-decanted rather than being properly decanted off of its sediment. This was definitely a faux pas on the part of our sommelier, but I chose not to mention it so as to not taint an otherwise great dining experience.
Flight 2 - MONDAY, OCTOBER 16, 2017 (ROOM SERVICE SNACKS AND CABERNET) (1 Note)
Time spent enjoying the sights and sounds of Times Square at night was followed by room service snacks (which included a hummus plate). From the room service menu we also ordered a bottle of ‘14 Montes Cabernet Sauvignon Alpha, which was an easy late-night drinker for two Californians still running on Pacific time.
Flight 3 - TUESDAY, OCTOBER 17, 2017 (LUNCH AT GOTHAM BAR AND GRILL) (1 Note)
When in New York, our biological clocks never really convert from Pacific to Eastern time. As such, in some ways, it makes us feel like teenagers. We stay up late (well after midnight) and wake up in the late morning. Our first full day of this trip was no exception. After morning coffee, we planned our day to include lunch at Gotham Bar and Grill, as well as an evening play.
Gotham Bar and Grill is located in Greenwich Village, not far from Washington Square Park. It has been a favorite of locals and visitors for more than 30 years under the helm of Chef Alfred Portale. Beautifully appointed but unpretentious, it is a comfortable, friendly place to dine. The wine list is comprehensive and especially deep in offerings from France, Italy and the United States. To match his seasonal menu, Gotham’s wine director, Heidi Turzyn, selects two wines by the glass, three bottles of white and three bottles of red to be featured for lunch pairings. The prices of these wines are very reasonable, although those seeking something different can access the full list if they desire.
For our two-course meal, we elected to go with one of the featured wines (although we couldn’t resist perusing the full list). We chose the 2015 L’Umami Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, which was an outstanding match with all four of the dishes that the two of us consumed.
For her appetizer, my spouse ordered the seafood salad, which included scallops, squid, Spanish octopus, lobster, sweet shrimp and avocado dressed with a lemon vinaigrette. Each component was ultra-fresh and the flavors were explosive.
I couldn’t resist ordering the yellowfin tuna tartare, served with Japanese cucumber and shiso leaf, dressed with Asian ginger vinaigrette. This was beautiful visually and was equally attractive in the flavor department.
Our main courses were works of art. My better half ordered the cremini mushroom risotto, prepared with pancetta, baby arugula and aged gruyere.
I ordered the pan roasted branzino, served on a bed of fennel confit, black olive, marble potatoes and blood orange emulsion. The freshly flavorful fish was highlighted by the texture of the crispy skin. This is perhaps the most impressive rendition of European sea bass that I have ever devoured!
Flight 4 - TUESDAY, OCTOBER 17, 2017 (STROLLING MANHATTAN AND PERUSING EATALY)
After dining at Gotham Bar and Grill, we decided to walk back to our hotel, taking in the sights and sounds of Greenwich Village, Flatiron, Chelsea and Midtown. Among the many interesting sights was an amazing market and restaurant complex called Eataly. Located near the famous Flatiron building, it is an expansive congregation of meat, fish, pasta, wine, pastry, cheese, olive oil, cookbook and chocolate purveyors, architecturally designed to integrate multiple restaurants. It is difficult to describe, but the term “controlled chaos” seems to suit. The hustle and bustle seems to flow beautifully. Fortunately we were full following our Gotham meal, as we otherwise would have eaten our way through the complex.
During our stroll we also came across The Manhattan Wine Shop, where we bought a few bottles to take back to our room (so that we would not be limited to the somewhat pedestrian wine list of the hotel’s room service menu). This shop is close to the hotel at 1006 6th Avenue. It is a modest-sized store that is somewhat overpriced. While polite, the staff had no idea what they were selling. When asked if they had any Washington State wines, I was told “only wines from Washington Valley, near Washington, D.C.” I subsequently found some good Washington State wines. When I checked out, the attendant was happy that I was going to go ahead and buy some wines from Washington, D.C. I nicely informed him that the Columbia Valley is not in Washington, D.C. but instead is in Washington State. I don’t think he believed me.
Flight 5 - TUESDAY, OCTOBER 17, 2017 (A BROADWAY PLAY…THEN NEW YORK PIZZA) (2 Notes)
Although my wife had previously seen The Lion King with our daughter a decade ago, I had never seen it. She readily agreed to see it again with me. Staged at the Minskoff theatre, it is now in its 20th year. A winner of six Tony Awards, a Grammy for best musical album and numerous other honors, it is a play well-worthy of its accolades. Although the show always sells out, we were able to snag two tickets, front row center in the orchestra section near the conductor. What a magnificent experience. I encourage any reader to see this play if he or she has not already done so.
Following the play, we were in the mood for some authentic New York pizza. Near the hotel is a tiny throwback pizza joint that is immensely popular, Patzeria Perfect Pizza (231 West 46th Street, between Broadway and 8th Avenue, 212-575-7646). Owned by Joseph Azzolino and Patrick Robustelli, it does not have a website but seems to do just fine without it. We ordered four different slices to go, subsequently enjoying them in our room doing a side-by-side comparison of two Washington State wines purchased earlier in the day. Thereafter, fatigue finally caught up with us. We capped the remaining wine and hit the hay.
Flight 6 - WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 18, 2017 (LUNCH AT ‘21’ CLUB) (1 Note)
In keeping with our biological clocks synchronized to Pacific time, we awakened late in the morning, getting a good night’s sleep in anticipation of the day’s culinary adventures. Our first stop was lunch at '21' Club. For those who have never been, this restaurant will make you feel warm and fuzzy. It starts when entering the old but beautifully appointed building, where miniature jockeys line the balcony and outdoor stairway.
The restaurant is a few steps below street level, where diners enter through heavy brass-and-glass doors to see an upscale yet speakeasy type of décor. There are two bars in the establishment, one being immediately to the right of the entry area. This is referred to as the “Bar ‘21’ and Lounge.”
To the left is a good ol’ fashioned coat-check area, complete with a friendly attendant.
The entry to the lower-level dining room, called “The Bar Room,” looks like the dining room entry of a 1920s era home. It is where the second bar is located, and this is where we dined. 
A third area of the restaurant, referred to as “Upstairs at ‘21’, offers diners an elegant, mural-lined setting. This area is only open for evening dining.
The “Bar Room” has a cozy, comfortable feel. It is somewhat dimly lit and is adorned with assorted toys, football helmets and other memorabilia that hang from the ceiling. Many in my age group will immediately reminisce about special occasions as a child, when we would dress up and go to a “fancy” restaurant with our parents. In some ways, it made me want to order a Shirley Temple!
The menu offers several classic dishes as well as newer, innovative plates. As far as the wine list goes, it is one that I could have spent hours perusing. The restaurant’s has amazing depth and breadth in pretty much everything, especially Bordeaux, Burgundy and California. It is no wonder that ‘21’ Club has held a Wine Spectator Grand Award since 2003. With the assistance of our sommelier, we ordered the 2013 Domaine Henri Delagrange Pommard Les Bertins, which paired beautifully with all four dishes.
For openers my wife chose the Clayton’s jumbo lump crabmeat, served with traditional mustard sauce. These were extremely fresh, hearty-textured lumps from the body of the crab, without cartilage or shell. The portion was generous and was nicely complimented by the accompanying sauce.
I started with the soup du jour, which was minestrone. This was tasty, but not particularly memorable.
For her entrée, my wife ordered the steak frites, which was a perfectly seared, juicy filet mignon served with fries that were crispy on the outside, light and fluffy on the inside. This was pure hedonism for any carnivore.
I could not resist ordering the “speakeasy” steak tartare, which was prepared with petite greens and truffle vinaigrette, served with toast points. Our captain asked if I preferred a mild, medium or modestly spicy version of the dish. I requested the lightly spicy version. This was a good choice, as it had excellent flavor intensity but did not overwhelm the wine.
Flight 7 - WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 18, 2017 (DINNER AT ELEVEN MADISON PARK: COURSES 1-5)
In this world there are many overrated entertainers, politicians, athletes and yes…even restaurants. Let me be perfectly clear in stating that, based upon my experience Eleven Madison Park is NOT one of them. This three-star Michelin restaurant has a newly renovated kitchen and refreshed dining room, but was able to retain its entire staff during the summertime renovation by having them work together in the Hamptons at a pop-up restaurant that they called EMP Summer House.
Our experience began with cocktails in the attractively-appointed yet comfortable lounge before transitioning to the dining room.
Shortly thereafter, we were taken to the dining room. From our vantage point, this was the best table in the restaurant. It was in a corner of the upper level, where we could see virtually everything going on. Romantic and cozy, we were very happy with where we were seated.
The staff at Eleven Madison Park works in unison like a well-oiled machine. They all seem to know the business from the ground up, which is not surprising when considering that each dining room employee always begins as a kitchen server. Our captain, sommelier, multiple servers and bussers looked and acted very professionally. The “look” begins with impeccable grooming and is enhanced by the tailor-made gray suit that each employee wears. The “act” of professionalism is in their friendly, unpretentious yet knowledgeable demeanor. They were at our table when we wanted (or needed) them, yet were by no means cloying. All of this made us feel very welcome and comfortable.
I couldn’t wait to peruse the restaurant’s Wine Spectator Grand Award-winning list. Having discussed the menu with our captain, we felt that a half bottle of white Burgundy and a full bottle of red Burgundy would be the way to go. With over 3,800 selections (187 pages), I realized that I would need some assistance selecting the best red, but did feel comfortable ordering a half-bottle of 2015 Domaine Matrot Meursault Les Chevalières. For the red, our sommelier recommended the 2014 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay Vendanges Sélectionnées, which was expertly decanted for aeration (in light of its youth).
Our dining adventure began with a gift-wrapped box containing (for each of us) a black and white savory cookie, with apple and cheddar. These popped with flavor!
The ensuing dish arrived as a single wooden container, which was then taken deconstructed by our server and arranged into an array of interlocking serving plates. They include roasted chestnut with black truffle, sweet potato tart with black garlic, apple with caramel and foie gras and fall game pie with pearl onion.
The next dish was an impressively creative sturgeon cheesecake with “everything” bagel and pickle crust, dressed with caviar. This was visually and texturally beautiful and was packed with flavor.
The next course was the first point at which my serving deviated from my wife’s, based upon the options presented to us at the start of the meal. My spouse was served seared foie gras with beets, rye and horseradish, while I was presented with little neck clams marinated with fennel and Meyer lemon. We sampled each other’s dishes and could not decide which was better, because they were both so impressive.
Thereafter the table was provided with breads and butter, which were seasoned with onion and garlic. Coarse sea salt was served alongside.
For the next course, my wife was served butter-poached Maine lobster with potato and chanterelles, while I was treated to poached tilefish with parsnip and pike roe. The lobster was exquisite and the tilefish was fresh, light and flavorful. Both of these dishes paired very well with the Matrot Meursault.
Our dishes again converged when our server brought out a whole roasted pumpkin wrapped in bacon and seaweed. This was carved tableside and dressed with a liquid concoction of bacon and maple syrup. The textures and autumnal flavors here were fantastic! 
Flight 8 - WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 18, 2017 (DINNER AT ELEVEN MADISON PARK: COURSES 6-9) (2 Notes)
The ensuing course included our main proteins. My wife was served roasted duck, glazed with lavender honey and served with baked apple. I was presented with dry-aged veal, perfectly cooked and served with bitter greens and shallots. Concurrently served (to go with both dishes) were plates of kale (with pearl onions and farm egg) and potatoes (as confit, purée and crumble). These dishes were nicely complemented by the Lafarge Volnay.
The next course was a whimsical play on a pretzel, drizzled with New York cheddar and mustard, served with saison beer (made exclusively for Eleven Madison Park by Threes Brewing, labeled as “Grain of Salt.” This was a fun, tasty combination that, by its flavor, shifted the setting from an elegant restaurant to Yankee Stadium. We loved it!
Our desserts diverged, with my wife receiving chocolates filled with shortbread and ice cream. I was served variations of cranberries, along with spiced ice cream and pears.
The evening concluded with a chocolate-covered pretzel, served with apple brandy. A fitting end to an absolutely glorious evening.
All in all, this was a tremendous dining experience. At the time of our departure, we were given gift bags, each containing a small tin with a pleated menu of what we each consumed, along with a jar of homemade granola.
We returned to our hotel and slept well in our contentment. Chef Daniel Humm is a culinary genius and his well-trained staff is the gold standard by which every other fine-dining restaurant should measured.
Flight 9 - THURSDAY, OCTOBER 19, 2017 (LUNCH AT JEAN-GEORGES: COURSES 1-3) (1 Note)
After sleeping in late, we headed out for a much-anticipated lunch at Jean-Georges. We admittedly felt that this was likely to fall short, after having just dined at Eleven Madison Park a few hours earlier. To the contrary, this experience did nothing other than to meet (or even raise) the bar. Jean-Georges Vongerichten is absolutely brilliant. If Daniel Humm is the culinary version of Sir Isaac Newton, Chef Vongerichten is Albert Einstein. How can you decide who has the higher culinary IQ???
Jean-Georges is another restaurant that exceeds its hype on so many levels. Located in the Central Park West Trump Tower, it is a beautifully appointed restaurant with subdued colors, diffused light and an elegant yet relaxing vibe. As was the case with Eleven Madison Park, we were lucky enough to be seated in a corner booth table, which gave us full-view of the intimate dining room. This is distinct from the bar (and its somewhat more casual dining area) through which diners pass when entering what, as we discovered by the end of our meal, are essentially the gates of heaven.
We were immediately greeted by our captain, a young woman in her early twenties who was (like all of the other dining room staff) impeccably groomed in a tailored vested outfit. She was as professional and knowledgeable as she was dressed, with complete cerebral control over ingredients and every other detail of each and every dish. Our sommelier was equally knowledgeable about his area of expertise, as were all servers and bussers. These people could have brought me a Big Mac with fries and we would have still been happy by virtue of how special they made us feel. That said, the cuisine was on a bit higher level.
I was provided with the Wine Spectator Grand Award-winning wine list, which I perused with great joy. Knowing what we would be ordering for food, we decided that a white Burgundy would be the best overall match. I consulted with our sommelier and it was mutually decided that the 2015 Domaine Leflaive Mâcon-Verzé would be a good choice. Albeit not one of the higher-end offerings from Leflaive, the quality of the vintage and producer spoke volumes. It was an excellent match with each and every dish.
We began with assorted delicious breads and herb butter (rosemary olive, Swedish rye, ciabatta and sour dough). My favorite was the olive, while my wife’s was the sour dough.
Thereafter we progressed to an amuse-bouche of bean-cured salmon (served over sunflower yogurt, topped with picked Fresno chile and dill), tempura of eggplant (with saffron honey and goat cheese) and carrot minestrone soup with shiso mint.
My wife’s appetizer was stunning. Fresh caviar over Meyer lemon gelée, served with crème fraiche and a wisp of dill. This was gorgeous visually. The Bulgarian osetra caviar was perfectly textured…each egg “popped” in the mouth with a burst of flavor. Amazing in every sense of the word!
I chose the sea trout, served with dill purée, olive oil lemon foam, trout roe and crispy horseradish. The fish was extremely fresh, served in small slices that were easy to eat. The texture of the mild horseradish added a “crunch” that vaulted this dish from a “10” to an “11” (on a scale of 10). Magnificent and beautifully creative.
For her second course, my wife ordered a pumpkin ravioli with Parmesan and crushed amaretti. The pasta was perfectly al dente, the pumpkin fresh, the flavors sublime and the textures beyond sublime. This was another knockout dish.
I ordered the diver scallops, served with caramelized cauliflower and drizzled with a caper-raisin emulsion. Again, here was a phenomenal combination of flavors and textures…not to mention a visual work of art.
Our third courses kept the momentum going. My wife was served pan roasted wild hake with flowering broccolini and jade emulsion. The fish was crisp on the outside, light and fluffy on the inside. It goes unsaid that the fish was also ultra-fresh and packed with flavor.
I ordered the Parmesan crusted organic chicken confit, served with artichoke, basil and lemon butter. Bites of the chicken with artichoke on the same fork proved the flavor combination to be a celestial match!
Flight 10 - THURSDAY, OCTOBER 19, 2017 (LUNCH AT JEAN-GEORGES: SWEET FINISH…AND A SURPRISE)
Following our fish and chicken courses, we were served an arrangement of truffles. These included a pistachio ganache, cherry cordial, passion fruit ganache, blood orange pâte de fruit and vanilla marshmallow (cut tableside).
The truffles would have otherwise been the perfect ending to a perfect meal. However, we were then treated to something very special by being in the right place at the right time. Seated at a nearby table throughout our meal was a couple who were obviously close friends of Chef Vongerichten and his brother, general manager Philippe Vongerichten. Jean-Georges and Philippe made numerous visits to the table, bringing off-menu dishes and chatting with the couple in French. At the close of their meal, Philippe came out with a cart and intact pineapple. He then proceeded to skillfully spiral-cut the pineapple with a razor-sharp knife. Watching this should have required a cover charge! As a physician, I was thoroughly impressed with his surgical skills. After the pineapple was fully stripped, he then cut slices (from the bottom up), placed them on the plate and sprinkled them with dried rose petals and other edible flowers, followed by a drizzle of kirsch. It was a sight to behold.
Much to our surprise thereafter, Philippe (having noticed that we were watching intently) graciously offered us servings of this delicious, refreshing work of art. What a treat and what a nice gentleman he is!
All in all, lunch at Jean-Georges was something that we will never forget. Chef Vongerichten and his polished team made the experience rise to the level of the sublime. We look forward to returning for dinner when we next visit New York.
Flight 11 - THURSDAY, OCTOBER 19, 2017 (WINE SPECTATOR CRITICS’ CHOICE GRAND TASTING #1) (41 Notes)
Chaotic as they may seem, the Wine Spectator Grand Tasting events have a certain “flow” that we have come to know. For newbies at these events, it can be a bit intimidating and even stressful. However, this seasoned veteran can provide the following advice: don’t let it get you uptight! By the end of these tastings, participants will always be able to taste their favorite wines and discover new gems that they have never tried. The ability to taste is limited only by the sheer number of participating wineries, not the inability to physically get to any specific wine table. We typically find that, by the end of the evening, we have tasted as many wines as our palate will allow. It does help that full weekend participants are allowed to enter the tasting an hour earlier than general admission participants (and have two nights to taste rather than just one), but, rest assured, even the general admission participants have the opportunity to taste until their palates fatigue. 
As is always the case, the Grand Tastings encompass two floors of ballroom space (fifth and sixth at the Marriott Marquis). We confined our first evening of tasting to the fifth floor, although I did briefly slip away to the sixth floor to sample a couple of wines. Both floors offer a nice spread of food to make sure that participants don’t go hungry.
During the tasting, my wife was reunited with an old friend, Angelo Gaja. A legend in the wine business, he is an amazingly affable, humble and kind soul.
After the tasting, we retired to our hotel room. Still synchronized with California time, we stayed up late, ordered snacks and had a glass of Northstar Cabernet (from a bottle purchased two days previously at The Manhattan Wine Shop).
Flight 12 - FRIDAY, OCTOBER 20, 2017 (WINE SPECTATOR MORNING PROGRAM: INTRODUCTORY COMMENTS)
The Friday morning seminar session began with welcoming comments from Thomas Matthews, Wine Spectator Executive Editor. Conspicuously absent was Marvin Shanken, Publisher. Matthews explained that, for the first time in 37 years, Shanken could not provide the welcoming speech, this being due to an unavoidable business conflict. The following day, Shanken revealed that he had been given the honor of being a trustee for his alma mater, the University of Miami. His very first trustee board meeting was at the same time as the Friday morning session, and he correctly felt that the participants would forgive him for missing one day in 37 years.
Flight 13 - FRIDAY, OCTOBER 20, 2017 (WINE SPECTATOR MORNING PROGRAM: VEUVE CLICQUOT CHAMPAGNE) (4 Notes)
Introduced by Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator Senior Editor, was Pierre Casenave, winemaker for Veuve Clicquot. 
Pierre is an engaging young man with an infectious personality. He delivered a nice talk about Veuve Clicquot and the history of La Grande Dame (named as a tribute to Madame Clicquot). The guided tasting was quite revealing about the production of the 2006 Brut Rosé, as well as the aromatic and flavor differences of the three distinct Brut vintages.
Flight 14 - FRIDAY, OCTOBER 20, 2017 (WINE SPECTATOR MORNING PROGRAM: WINE STAR #1; MARILISA ALLEGRINI) (1 Note)
Recently featured in the Wine Spectator magazine, Marilisa Allegrini proved herself to be equally charming in person. She spoke emotionally about her last appearance at the New York Wine Experience shortly after 9/11, mentioning how sad she felt about the sucker punch that had been thrown at America. She also confessed that she was a bit intimidated at that time, as Robert Mondavi was sitting in the front row.
Marilisa went on to discuss how her father, Giovanni, purchased the family property in 1979. Working the land extensively, he planted vineyards, but unfortunately passed away in 1983. The tiny La Poja vineyard, only 6.5 acres, is actually the upper parcel of the family’s La Grola vineyard. Planted entirely to Corvina, it yields Allegrini’s most exclusive and prestigious wine. She went on to talk about family succession of the business, as well as the characteristics of the Verona La Poja 2000 being served to the participants.
Flight 15 - FRIDAY, OCTOBER 20, 2017 (WINE SPECTATOR MORNING PROGRAM: BURGUNDY CLOS VOUGEOT) (4 Notes)
Introduced by Bruce Sanderson, Wine Spectator Senior Editor, were cousins Francois Labet (Château de la Tour) and Pierre-Henry Gagey (Louis Jadot). These two men essentially grew up together and described themselves as being like brothers. The banter was entertaining but also informative. They pointed out that Clos Vougeot is the largest enclosed Grand Cru vineyard in Burgundy, second only to Corton in terms of total size. With Clos Vougeot spanning 124 acres and having 82 different owners, there can be wide variation in style and quality amongst producers. Fortunately, these two producers own substantial plots within Clos Vougeot (Château de la Tour 14.82 acres and Louis Jadot 6.18 acres) and accordingly can tightly control the quality of their product.
Flight 16 - FRIDAY, OCTOBER 20, 2017 (WINE SPECTATOR MORNING PROGRAM: WINE STAR #2; MÉLISSA BOUYGUES) (1 Note)
Purchased by Martin and Olivier Bouygues in 2006, Château Montrose has undergone a historic renovation and is in the process of redefining itself as being in a class among the elite. For this session, Mélissa Bouygues, Chairwoman of Château Montrose, was scheduled to speak. Unfortunately, she could not appear due to a death in her family. Her substitute was Château Montrose’s CEO, Hervé Berland. Berland is more than adept at speaking. His personal story is quite interesting. After more than 30 years as senior manager at Château Mouton-Rothschild, he left in 2012 to fill the shoes of Jean-Bernard Delmas (who managed Montrose from 2006 to 2011). This clearly shows his personal commitment and belief that Montrose is an estate second to none.
Château Montrose is somewhat unusual in that its vineyard is a single (unfragmented) block. The selection process for the grand vin is rigorous, and it shows. We were served Montrose’s 2010 iteration, which is nothing short of spectacular.
Flight 17 - FRIDAY, OCTOBER 20, 2017 (WINE SPECTATOR MORNING PROGRAM: TOP 10 WINES OF 2016; PART 1) (3 Notes)
Introduced by Wine Spectator Napa Bureau Chief Kim Marcus were Don Hartford (Hartford Family), Florence Cathiard (Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte) and Piero Antinori (Antinori). Prior to turning over the stage, he reminded participants of the criteria used by the Wine Spectator editors for ranking wines in their top 100: quality, price, availability and “x-factor.”
The first to speak was Don Hartford, whose Hartford Family Zinfandel Russian River Valley Old Vine 2014 was the #10 wine of the year. He pointed out that, unlike most Zinfandel producers, his Zins are made using Pinot Noir vinification techniques (small bins, cold soaks, hand punch-downs, etc.). Hartford’s Zinfandel vineyard sources are 80-100 years old, which, in conjunction with his vinification techniques, allows for creation of concentrated yet elegant wines.
Next up was Florence Cathiard, whose Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte Blanc 2013 was the #9 wine of the year. She explained the Château’s longstanding practice of using a relatively high percentage of Sauvignon Blanc in the final blend. She additionally discussed the advantages of their organic winegrowing techniques and their in-house barrel production facility as it relates to what ends up in the bottle. It is hard to argue that their methods are not effective, as the wine is ethereal.
The third and final speaker in this session was Piero Antinori, who really needs no introduction. He discussed the history of Tignanello and its dedicated vineyard which is situated at the perfect elevation to create a microclimate of warm days (encouraging fruit development) and cool nights (preserving acidity). He then went on to describe specifics about the 2013 vintage and why it created such a memorable version of the wine.
Flight 18 - FRIDAY, OCTOBER 20, 2017 (WINE SPECTATOR MORNING PROGRAM: 1977 VINTAGE PORT) (4 Notes)
Introduced by James Molesworth, Wine Spectator Senior Editor, were Adrian Bridge (Taylor Fladgate) and Rupert Symington (Symington Family). 
Both gave interesting accounts of the ’77 vintage for their respective properties. The wines were amazing, with one exception. Our table’s ’77 Taylor somehow slipped through the otherwise rigorous screening of the professional sommeliers. Not only was it undrinkable because of its sediment, it was also badly corked. We alerted our server to the problem but they were unable to return with a replacement bottle. As such, the discussion of ’77 Taylor was pretty moot. This is the first time that we have experienced such a boo-boo at the event, and we were, accordingly, inclined to be forgiving. This was also the sentiment of the others at our table, recognizing that everyone makes mistakes.
Flight 19 - FRIDAY, OCTOBER 20, 2017 (WINE SPECTATOR LUNCHEON: WINES OF AUSTRALIA) (8 Notes)
Those who have attended previous Wine Spectator New York Wine Experience events will agree that the sponsored luncheons are a much anticipated treat. This year, the Friday sponsor was Wine Australia. This trade group arranged a menu to match their wines, and they were spot-on. The food was delicious and the wines were impressive. These luncheons typically involve sitting with other attendees whom you have never met, which makes it even more fun. We have established great relationships while eating lunch and sipping wine in between the Wine Spectator’s morning and afternoon programs.
The first course was a delicious collection of autumn greens, with pears, crushed roasted hazelnuts and aged balsamic vinegar.
For our main course, we were served roasted chicken breast with a truffle butter crust. Alongside on the plate were a parsnip purée, honey-glazed carrots, turnips and a chicken demi-glace.
Dessert was a decadent Lamington sponge cake with coconut cream. What I learned is that Lamington sponge cake is named after Charles Wallace Baillie, Lord Lamington, the governor of Queensland from 1895 to 1901. Lord Lamington was known for wearing a homburg hat that looked like the cakes. For many years “Lamingtons” were served on state ceremonial occasions in Queensland. They are made from squares of sponge cake coated in an outer layer of chocolate sauce and rolled in desiccated coconut. This was a gorgeous and delicious Aussie treat!
After the fantastic meal, I was able to chat briefly with Sarah Marquis, owner and winemaker at Mollydooker. I found her to be an affable, down-to-earth lady with a good sense of humor. 
Flight 20 - FRIDAY, OCTOBER 20, 2017 (WINE SPECTATOR AFTERNOON PROGRAM: 2017 VIDEO CONTEST WINNER)
Vineyards and High Heels, submitted by Monica Tibaldi from Pogapaglia, Piedmont was the Wine Spectator 2017 Video Contest winner. This is a highly entertaining video, showing the “glamorous” life of a vigneron’s daughters (Monica and Daniela) who are carrying the family torch for the next generation. Monica’s brief speech and the video were enthusiastically received by the audience. 
Flight 21 - FRIDAY, OCTOBER 20, 2017 (WINE SPECTATOR AFTERNOON PROGRAM: WINE STAR #3; VICTOR URRUTIA) (1 Note)
Entering to the Runaways’ old hit Cherry Bomb was C.V.N.E. CEO Victor Urrutia, who gave an enthusiastic talk about the quality coming out of Rioja and Spain in general. He stated that, in his opinion, the top wines from Spain are on a par with the top wines from anywhere in the world. Pointing out that C.V.N.E. only makes their Imperial Gran Reserva in vintages deemed worthy, he proceeded to describe his impressions of the ’76 iteration (as tasters came to their own conclusions). Unfortunately, this was another case where our table was poured wine from an improperly decanted bottle.
Flight 22 - FRIDAY, OCTOBER 20, 2017 (WINE SPECTATOR AFTERNOON PROGRAM: TOP 10 WINES OF 2016; PART 2) (3 Notes)
Introduced by Kim Marcus were Paul Draper (Ridge), Dave Phinney (Orin Swift) and Aldo Vacca (Produttori del Barbaresco).
Each speaker gave brief talks about their careers, as well as information about the wines being presented. Most interesting were Paul Draper’s comments about how the baton has essentially been fully passed to Ridge’s current head winemaker, Eric Baugher. Also engaging was Dave Phinney’s account of his own journey in the wine business, starting out a seasonal harvest worker where he was the only Caucasian person on the crew, subsequently working his way up the “food chain.” Phinney humbly made it clear that he has not forgotten his roots.
All three of the wines presented were of outstanding quality: Ridge Monte Bello 2012 (wine #7), Orin Swift Machete 2014 (wine #6) and Produttori del Barbaresco Asili Riserva 2011 (wine #5).
Flight 23 - FRIDAY, OCTOBER 20, 2017 (WINE SPECTATOR AFTERNOON PROGRAM: WINE STAR #4; STEPHEN HENSCHKE) (1 Note)
Introduced by Wine Spectator Editor-at-Large Harvey Steiman was wine legend Stephen Henschke. Steiman’s admiration for Henschke was undeniably sincere when giving brief commentary about the fifth-generation winemaker’s numerous achievements. He pointed out that Hill of Grace retails for $817 and only a tiny amount is exported to the U.S., yet Henschke was willing to provide six cases for the event’s participants.
Although Henschke seemed to be reading most of his speech, it was quite interesting to hear what he was saying. He described the location and characteristics of the Hill of Grace vineyard, noting that a substantial proportion of the vines are 150+ years old. He also talked about the estate’s biodynamic farming practices and use of modern glass or twist-off closures in order to eliminate the issue of cork taint. All-in-all, it was a pleasure to hear him speak and a distinct honor to be provided with so much of his scarce wine.
Flight 24 - FRIDAY, OCTOBER 20, 2017 (WINE SPECTATOR AFTERNOON PROGRAM: GAJA BARBARESCO) (4 Notes)
God threw away the mold after he made Angelo Gaja. There is arguably no nicer nor more humble wine superstar than this man. Introduced by Bruce Sanderson were Angelo and his daughter, Gaia. Both engaged the audience, spoke about the family lineage and Gaja’s commitment to producing the highest quality wines, strictly reflective of the special terroir of each vineyard. Gaia discussed the common belief that Barolo is masculine and Barbaresco feminine. She agreed with that belief, but only with the caveat that Barolo is a ”gentleman” while Barbaresco is a ”tough lady”.
Although Angelo is still quite active in the business, Gaia’s presence provided a sense of comfort about where this winery is headed. It is very clear that Gaja will be in good hands with the next generation. 
Flight 25 - FRIDAY, OCTOBER 20, 2017 (WINE SPECTATOR CRITICS’ CHOICE GRAND TASTING #2) (35 Notes)
For the second Grand Tasting, we largely confined ourselves to the sixth floor (although we did make a late transition to the fifth in order to taste some wines that we had missed on the previous night). The sixth floor has a slightly more spacious ballroom that includes a large stage. Unlike the fifth floor, there is room inside (on the stage) for the large spread of food available for participants. As was the case for the previous night, we methodically tasted numerous wines and had the pleasure of speaking with many winemakers and winery owners.
Christian Moueix (Pétrus, La Fleur-Pétrus, Trotanoy, Dominus, etc.)
Pablo Álvarez (Vega Sicilia)
Victor Urrutia (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España)
Flight 26 - SATURDAY, OCTOBER 21, 2017 (WINE SPECTATOR MORNING PROGRAM: INTRODUCTORY COMMENTS AND WILDFIRE REPORT)
The Saturday morning program began with brief comments by Marvin Shanken, who explained his absence on the previous morning as a result of his commitment to the University of Miami. He then held up a Wine Spectator issue from 1981, noting that the tabloid-like issue was published the same year as the first Wine Experience event. He likewise noted that he had otherwise not missed a day of any Wine Experience event since the publication of that issue.
The introduction swiftly led to an impromptu session featuring James Laube (Wine Spectator Senior Editor), Randy Lewis (Lewis Cellars) and Barbara Banke (Jackson Family Wines), who spoke about the wildfires affecting the California North Coast. 
It was pointed out that the greatest tragedy has been the loss of human life, as well as the loss of homes. James Laube, who lives in the Napa Valley, talked about his own frightening experience, wondering if his home would still be standing after he returned from being evacuated (it was). Fortunately, only a small number of winery structures were destroyed, the most notable being Signorello.
The large majority of grapes had been harvested before the fires began, but there were challenges for many wineries in terms of keeping fermentations cool (due to the loss of power, requiring portable generators and use of dry ice). Randy Lewis pointed out that grapes harvested after the fires began may or may not have some degree of smoke taint, which will only become evident when those wine lots have been fermented.
Barbara Banke noted that vineyards are “natural firebreaks,” so very few vineyards were destroyed. She said that active sprinkler systems of threatened vineyards were very helpful.
All three agreed that the most difficult problem for the California wine industry (and everyone else) moving forward will be the lack of housing. Where will winery employees live, and how will they be able to afford the rents (which are likely to skyrocket due to scarcity)? Banke did provide some good news when she said that FEMA is already in the process of planning construction of temporary modular homes for displaced residents (while their own homes are being rebuilt).
Flight 27 - SATURDAY, OCTOBER 21, 2017 (WINE SPECTATOR MORNING PROGRAM: TOP 10 WINES OF 2016; PART 3) (3 Notes)
Introduced by Harvey Steiman were Grace Evenstad (Domaine Serene), Mike Etzel (Beaux Frères) and Bérénice Lurton (Château Climens).
The first to speak was Grace Evenstad, whose Domaine Serene Chardonnay Evenstad Reserve 2014 was the #2 wine of 2016. She spoke of how they originally intended to make only Pinot Noir, but they changed their minds when they were able to purchase the Côte Sud vineyard in the late ‘90s. Since then, they have been committed to producing Chardonnay that combines the best of new world fruit and old world structure. Based upon their 2014 reserve Chardonnay, I would have to say that they have unequivocally succeeded in this pursuit!
The next to speak was Mike Etzel, whose Beaux Frères Pinot Noir Beaux Frères Vineyard 2014 was Wine Spectator’s #3 wine of 2016. He talked about the original purchase of his property, which was an old animal farm. With PowerPoint projections he showed photos of the original structure and how it has been transformed into a winery. He noted that they are currently replanting (in blocks) the Beaux Frères Vineyard, as its native rootstock is now infected with phylloxera. Etzel became quite emotional (with tears of joy) when speaking about how he is now working jointly with his son, Mike Etzel, Jr., whose is now the winemaker/viticulturist. The Beaux Frères Vineyard 2014 Pinot is outstanding, well worthy of its accolades.
Last to speak was Bérénice Lurton, whose Château Climens 2013 was 2016’s #4 wine. Attendees found Lurton to be engaging and very funny. She jokingly pointed out that Château Climens can be drunk with desserts, savory dishes, on its own or pretty much with anything, and that bottles keep well in the fridge after opening. Accordingly (she said tongue-in-cheek), you should buy one, two or three cases or more of any vintage. Her 2013 Climens is ethereal, so she may just be right!
Flight 28 - SATURDAY, OCTOBER 21, 2017 (WINE SPECTATOR MORNING PROGRAM: WINE STAR #5; JOHN ALBAN) (1 Note)
Introduced by Wine Spectator Senior Editor Tim Fish was John Alban, who took the stage adorned in a wildly colorful tuxedo. An undeniable legend, he spoke about his many years in the wine business, bringing cuttings from top Rhone Valley vineyards during the ‘80s and propagating them in his own nursery (ultimately supplying numerous Central Coast wineries). He essentially was the “Johnny Appleseed” of Rhone varietals planted in California.
Alban is a very funny man. He had the audience wrapped around his little finger, making subtle jokes about his sheep, etc. He pointed out that, unlike many Old World winemakers, he has never been constrained by archaic wine cultivation laws. As such, he has always been free to create his wines with one simple goal: make them taste good! Toward the end of his speech, in deadpan fashion, he stated that food and wine are vitally important to mankind. He then projected a photo of a Milky Way candy bar and pointed out that we even named our galaxy after a food product. This had the crowd laughing loudly.
In discussing his soon-to-be-released Alban Syrah Reva 2013, he noted that the wine’s ripe fruit and concentration give it a masculine character up front, but there is a certain degree of elegance that shines through. I found the wine to be absolutely delicious, classic in quality.
Upon completion of his speech, Alban acknowledged his mother, Reva, and father, Seymour, both of whom were in the audience. We later had the opportunity to chat with him and his parents, finding them to be delightful. When I commented about John’s tuxedo coat, he confided that it had been designed by Liberace’s former clothes designer!
Flight 29 - SATURDAY, OCTOBER 21, 2017 (WINE SPECTATOR MORNING PROGRAM: MATT KRAMER’S DISCUSSION OF “ELEGANZA”) (3 Notes)
Those who have previously attended Wine Spectator events always look forward to Matt Kramer. Not only is he a tremendous speaker, but his topics are unfailingly interesting and the wines being poured offer some type of revelation. This year was no exception. The gist of his talk was that anything of elegance must have restraint. He used a clothing metaphor: Dolce & Gabbana no, Armani yes. Kramer then proceeded to describe the three wines in front of us, which included Graci Etna Barbabecchi 2013, Il Marroneto Brunello 2011 and Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo Ghemme Collis Breclemae 2010. Being served from southermost to northernmost in vineyard location, evidence was given for why each wine is elegant by virtue of its restraint.
Unfortunately, Kramer’s talk was cut short due to time constraints. He did not speak very long, and I suspect that he was cut off because the program was running behind schedule. In my opinion, Matt Kramer should never be hurried or cut off. Hopefully, at future Wine Spectator events, his speaking slot will be allotted more time or will be scheduled at a point in the program where he will not be required to rush. This was also the feeling of numerous other attendees.
Flight 30 - SATURDAY, OCTOBER 21, 2017 (WINE SPECTATOR MORNING PROGRAM: CHEFS’ CHALLENGE) (8 Notes)
Always a favorite, the chefs’ challenge this year did not disappoint. As in previous years, participants included restauranteur Danny Meyer, Chef Emeril Lagasse and Chef José Andrés. This year, Chef Mario Carbone (“The Grill,” New York City) was added to the mix as the new kid on the block.
During this session, they essentially play a game in front of the audience. Each of the four participants provides a dish for the attendees. For that dish, a different participant and Tom Matthews each pick a wine that they think would be the best match. The creator of the dish then decides which wine he thinks pairs best with his dish. The audience is also queried as to their opinion, and the “winning” wine is determined.
The dishes, clockwise from upper left, were roasted honeynut squash with ricotta, bacon and pickled peppers (created for Danny Meyer by Suzanne Cupps, executive chef at “Untitled at the Whitney”); tuna ravigote with sliced cucumber and soft boiled egg (Chef Carbone); pressed Louisiana Wagyu Reuben with fennel sauerkraut, apple hittisau and Cajun caviar (Chef Lagasse); foie gras “piña colada” comprised of foie gras custard with pineapple-rum gelatin, coconut cream, fresh pineapple and lime zest (Chef Andrés).
The banter amongst the chefs (and restauranteur) was hysterical. There was almost constant laughter from the audience. Chef Andrés had just returned to New York on a red eye from Puerto Rico, where he had been feverishly working feeding meals to those displaced by the hurricane. He had obviously consumed a bit too much coffee, as he was hyper and extremely funny. Mario Carbone, the “new kid” who will be featured on the cover of an upcoming Wine Spectator issue, was accused by the other participants as sucking up to Tom Matthews and Marvin Shanken, not desiring to disagree with the wine that Matthews had chosen for his dish. Carbone played this like a violin…his deadpan humor in the role of a sycophant was gut-busting funny!
All four dishes were delicious. Interestingly, this is the first year where all wines were white, which was unintentional. The pairings were all good.
For Danny’s roasted honeynut squash, he preferred Emeril’s Zind-Humbrecht to Tom’s Antinori Umbria. The Zind-Humbrecht was also the crowd’s favorite.
Mario’s tuna ravigote was my favorite dish. After taking my first bite, I knew that I had to visit his restaurant before the end of our stay in New York. He obsequiously (tongue-in-cheek) picked Tom’s Peter Michael Sauvignon Blanc as the the best match (over Danny’s Benanti Etna), which was also the consensus of the crowd.
Emeril felt that José’s Virginia Vermentino was a better match for his Wagyu than Tom’s Chapoutier Alsatian Riesling. The crowd agreed, but only after a theatrical re-count demand by José.
Lastly, José simply could not make up his mind between Mario’s Domaine Schlumberger Riesling and Tom’s Jorge Ordóñez Malaga Victoria when attempting to determine which was the better match for his foie gras “piña colada.” He then advised the crowd (who actually felt that Tom’s wine was the better match) to hold up both hands. With the audience obliging, he declared the contest a draw.
So much laughter, delicious food and good wines made this session something very special. We were subsequently able to briefly chat with these wine and food celebrities, excluding José, who had left fairly quickly (likely to go take a nap).
Danny Meyer
Mario Carbone
Emeril Lagasse
Flight 31 - SATURDAY, OCTOBER 21, 2017 (WINE SPECTATOR LUNCHEON: WINES OF CHIANTI CLASSICO) (9 Notes)
Sponsored by Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico, the Saturday luncheon was another winner. Each table had twelve different Tuscan wines, making it nearly impossible to taste all of them in the luncheon’s time frame. I was able to sample nine while enjoying the delicious three-course meal.
The first course consisted of fresh burrata, served with grilled market vegetables and a balsamic-olive oil dressing.
For the main course, we were served gnocchi with short rib ragout, adorned with Castelvetrano olives, marinara sauce and ricotta salata. This tasted as good as it looked!
Dessert was a special treat, consisting of almond panna cotta with apricot coulis and fresh berries.
Flight 32 - SATURDAY, OCTOBER 21, 2017 (WINE SPECTATOR AFTERNOON PROGRAM: AMERICAN PINOT NOIR) (4 Notes)
Following the Italian lunch was a session discussing American Pinot Noir. The featured guest, introduced by James Laube, was Adam Lee (Siduri). He gave an interesting talk about his background, then proceeded to dissect four very different 2014 Pinot Noir offerings, the differences being attributable to terroir (Willamette Valley, Russian River Valley, Santa Lucia Highlands and Sta. Rita Hills).
Growing up as the son of Baptist parents in Austin, Texas, Adam followed college with a job in a wine shop, then as the wine buyer for Neiman Marcus and subsequently as an assistant at Lambert Bridge Winery. He ultimately founded Siduri Wines with his wife, Diana, in 1994. Adam elicited a chuckle from the audience when he stated that he is not very adept at describing aromas and flavors of wine, choosing to leave the descriptors to the professional reviewers. He attributes his difficulty in describing fruit flavors to his upbringing, stating that he was “never exposed to fruit that didn’t come from a can drenched in simple syrup.”
All four wines were distinct and of outstanding quality. As such, this session was quite educational.
Flight 33 - OCTOBER 21, 2017 (WINE SPECTATOR AFTERNOON PROGRAM: TOP 10 WINES OF 2016; WINE #1) (1 Note)
Wine Spectator’s top wine of 2016 was the Lewis Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2013 (WS 95 points; $95). This was clearly a bittersweet award for Randy Lewis; bittersweet because he lost his wife, Debbie, to cancer in January of this year. Like Randy, Debbie was heavily involved in the day to day operations of Lewis Cellars. She reportedly was not only a wonderful lady, but also possessed a very discerning palate. A large part of what ended up in Lewis Cellars bottles was the result of her input.
Randy bravely spoke about Debbie, the history of Lewis Cellars and the special qualities of their 2013 Napa Cabernet. He has an endearing chuckle which was only interrupted with emotional moments when he choked up. I found it very uplifting when he spoke fondly about working with his stepson, Dennis Bell. Debbie’s biological son from a previous marriage, Randy described him as being nothing less than his own son. When talking about Dennis, Randy wore his love and pride on his sleeve.
Randy Lewis and Dennis Bell
Flight 34 - SATURDAY, OCTOBER 21, 2017 (WINE SPECTATOR AFTERNOON PROGRAM: CHÂTEAU MARGAUX) (6 Notes)
Introduced by James Molesworth, Corinne Mentzelopoulos is one of those people who is instantly recognizable. At Château Margaux’s helm since the early 1980s, she has raised the quality of the estate dramatically. 
After discussing the history of the property, she went on to describe the six wines being presented. Of note is that Château Margaux has progressively increased the percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon over the years, with which “Merlot cannot compete.” With much admiration and affection, she credited all six wines to the genius of the late Paul Pontallier. At the same time, she pointed out that the estate is staying on a good course with its current managing director, Philippe Bascaules. Last but not least, she alluded to the fact that her youngest daughter, Alexandra Petit-Mentzelopoulos, represents the next generation that will be given the daunting task of managing something as hallowed as Château Margaux.
All wines were in excellent condition. Four of the six were poured from 750 cc bottles, while the 2011 Pavillon Blanc and 1986 Margaux were poured from magnum.
At the end of the session, I had the opportunity to meet and chat with Corinne. She has a warm personality and an infectious smile. In the brief period of time that we spoke, she told two self-deprecating jokes. As accomplished as she is, she is clearly a humble woman who does not take herself too seriously.
Flight 35 - SATURDAY, OCTOBER 21, 2017 (WINE SPECTATOR GRAND AWARD BANQUET: CHAMPAGNE RECEPTION) (1 Note)
As in previous years, the Grand Award Banquet began with a Champagne reception on the fifth floor. Easels holding oversized photographs of each Grand Award-winning restaurant lined the periphery of the room, while the center had a large Champagne bar. Standing tables were scattered throughout so that guests could set their glasses down while enjoying a variety of tasty hors d'oeuvres presented by circulating servers. 
Seven Champagnes were offered. With the exception of the Roederer Starck 2009, all were non-vintage. That said, they were all delightful and a great way to kick off the evening. While I tried small samples of each, my only tasting note was for the Starck 2009. This is because it was not practical (nor polite) to attempt to retrieve the disgorgement dates from the non-vintage bottles.
The Champagnes included:
Barons de Rothschild Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne NV
Charles Heidsieck Brut Champagne Réserve NV
Drappier Brut Nature Pinot Noir Champagne André et Michel NV
Louis Roederer Brut Nature Champagne Starck 2009
Perrier-Jouët Brut Rosé Champagne Blason NV
Piper-Heidsieck Brut Champagne Cuvée NV
Taittinger Brut Rosé Champagne Prestige NV
Flight 36 - SATURDAY, OCTOBER 21, 2017 (WINE SPECTATOR GRAND AWARD BANQUET: AWARD PRESENTATIONS, DINNER AND DANCING) (2 Notes)
Following the Champagne reception, attendees transitioned to the sixth floor ballroom, which was fully decked out for a night of fun. We have always immensely enjoyed these events, dining with wine professionals and oenophiles from all over the world. This year we made some new Belgian friends!
The first presentations were to the 2017 Grand Award-winning restaurants. These included Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steakhouse (New York City, NY), Wally’s (Beverly Hills, CA), Grill 23 & Bar (Boston, MA), Le Climats (Paris, France) and PM & Vänner (Växjö, Sweden). All recipients gave nice terse acceptance speeches, but the most memorable came from Crystl Faye Horton, sommelier at Del Frisco’s. A very accomplished (and coincidentally attractive) woman in the wine business, she immediately disarmed every lady in the room by stating that, if it seemed like she was out of breath, it is because she had required three friends to help her squeeze into the slinky gown that she was wearing! The crowd erupted with laughter.
Crystl Faye Horton
Awards were then presented to Randy Lewis for his 2013 Napa Valley Cabernet, the Wine Spectator Wine of the Year for 2016, followed by the Distinguished Service Award to Barbara Banke from Jackson Family Wines. Both gave good speeches that were captivating and relatively brief.
The first dinner course was a wild mushroom and asiago tart, served with petite greens and balsamic-roasted strawberries. This was served with the Capensis Chardonnay, which was a reasonably good match.
For the main course, we were served a horseradish-crusted filet of beef, with brie creamed spinach, truffle fingerling potatoes and demi-glace. The filet was cooked nicely and was well-paired with the Hickinbotham Cabernet Sauvignon Truman.
Dessert consisted of a blackout cake with chocolate glaze and milk chocolate ice cream. This was a very decadent way to end a meal!
Diners then danced the night away to the sights and sounds of Alter Ego, a large and diversified band that put on a visual and auditory spectacle. They played a wide variety of songs, leaving no one disappointed. All in all, it was a great evening!
Flight 37 - SUNDAY, OCTOBER 22, 2017 (ROCKEFELLER CENTER AND DEL FRISCO’S DOUBLE EAGLE STEAKHOUSE) (1 Note)
Rockefeller Center is always a fun place to stroll and take in sights. 
We were already scheduled to see a play at 7:00 pm and dine at 10:15 pm, so we knew that light bar food in the late afternoon would tide us over (but not satiate us) before our play and late-night dinner. Accordingly, we dropped in to Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steakhouse on Avenue of the Americas, not for their famous steaks but instead for something lighter. The restaurant had received the Wine Spectator Grand Award the night before, which piqued our interest.
We sat at the bar of this attractive, casual restaurant. I ordered a Beefeater martini, while my wife had a glass of 2016 Martín Códax Albariño (poured from a freshly-opened, chilled bottle). My martini (priced at $16) was perfectly prepared to my specifications and was in a huge glass, literally making it a “double.” My wife’s glass of Albariño was likewise reasonably priced ($12) and was a generous pour. The photo below reflects the glasses after we had taken our first sips.
We perused the menu, and I could not resist also thumbing through the extensive Grand Award-winning wine list (even though I knew that we would not be desiring a bottle at the present time).
My wife ordered artichoke beignets. These came drenched with a Fontina, Parmesan and sweet basil dressing. Unfortunately, they were doughy, unevenly cooked and a little too pasty for our taste.
I ordered the ahi tacos, which consisted of ahi tartare with avocado and spicy citrus mayo in fried taco shells. The plate was generous and the flavors were good, but the fried taco shells were too heavy…this would never fly in San Diego.
Despite the shortcomings of our brief stop at Del Frisco’s, we plan to return at some point in the future so that we can order what they do best…a big ass New York steak and a bottle of Napa Cabernet!
Flight 38 - SUNDAY, OCTOBER 22, 2017 (A BROADWAY MUSICAL…THEN LATE DINNER AT BENOIT) (2 Notes)
Beautiful, The Carole King Musical highlights King’s brilliance by telling her story from age 16 to approximately age 30. The acting and music are nothing short of spectacular. We loved it from start to finish and highly recommend it to anyone who hasn’t already seen it.
After the play, we walked the few blocks from the Stephen Sondheim Theatre to Benoit, a French-themed bistro within the empire of Chef Alain Ducasse. Our reservations were quite late. As such, there were few diners remaining by the time we arrived. Executive Chef Laëtitia Rouabah has been running the kitchen for the past 13 years, and she remained there throughout our meal.
Seated in a nice corner table, we were brought madeleines and French bread while we perused the menu and extensive (Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence-winning) wine list. While we desired to order a half bottle of white Burgundy, the restaurant (surprisingly) does not offer any wines by the half bottle, and their by-the-glass selection did not have anything that tickled our fancy. We therefore had a round of cocktails and proceeded to order a bottle of 2013 Thomas Morey Maranges 1er Cru La Fussière. The sommelier did not decant the wine, but aeration would have likely been helpful because the wine did not fully strut its stuff until the end of our dinner.
For her first course, my wife ordered the lobster salad, served with quinoa, cucumber and fresh mint. The lobster and other ingredients were fresh, but the flavors were not memorable.
I ordered the onion soup gratinée, which had lots of gooey cheese, onion and red wine flavor. It was good, but again, nothing memorable.
For my wife’s entrée, she ordered the roasted cod, served with a mango/passion fruit rougaille sauce. While the cod was light and fresh, the sauce was quite spicy, with heat that overwhelmed the fish. 
I ordered the sweet spiced Rohan duck, served with apple, onion and ginger condiments. The generous-sized portion of duck was cooked perfectly and the flavors were spot-on. This dish was a winner and was the best match with the Maranges.
Because we were full, we elected to pass on dessert. But as we sat at our table (finishing our red Burgundy), we began conversing with an unmistakable wine celebrity who was dining at a nearby table. We had recognized him when we first arrived, because his hair speaks almost as loudly as the quality of his wines. Despite having sold Charles Smith Wines to Constellation last year (for a paltry $120 million), he remains the winemaker and likewise remains very passionate about his wines. We had a nice conversation, mostly about our mutual prediction that the wines of Washington State will explode in popularity over the next decade. In my mind, this is a no-brainer, as the overall quality of Washington’s wines is already outstanding (and continuing to improve exponentially).
On our walk back to the hotel, we enjoyed more of the sights and sounds of Times Square. We both agreed that the sirens were so common that we had become numb to them. We got back to our room, watched TV and opened a 2015 Domaine Germain Pommard, which we enjoyed with snacks. After a glass, we capped off the bottle and retired to bed in the wee hours of the morning.
Flight 39 - MONDAY, OCTOBER 23, 2017 (LUNCH AT THE GRILL) (3 Notes)
After tasting Mario Carbone’s tuna ravigote at the Wine Spectator chef’s challenge, we were determined to dine at The Grill so that we could sample more of his amazing culinary creations. Located in the historic Seagram Building in space that was previously leased by the Four Seasons restaurant, it was leased and refurbished with historic accuracy by The Grill’s current owners. Beautifully appointed with a nice mix of contemporary and traditional elements, it is a visually attractive, comfortable space adorned with French walnut, shimmering blinds and classic fabrics (including the linens). The captains wear black tuxedos, the servers and bussers white coats and the sommeliers tailored suits.
We began our adventure by selecting our dishes, then ordering wines from the extensive wine list. I began with a glass of 2016 Reverdy-Ducroux Sancerre Les Vignes Silex, while my wife selected a glass of 2013 Thomas Fogarty Chardonnay. We suspected that these would be good matches with the tuna ravigote and the Seagram crab cake, respectively. They were indeed excellent matches, and we had enough in each glass to “nurse” them throughout the entire meal.
Our red wine option was a bottle of 2012 Bethel Heights Aeolian Pinot Noir. I selected this without the assistance of the sommelier, as I felt that it would pair well with my filet mignon Florentine and even better with my wife’s honey mustard duckling. This turned out to be an excellent choice (if I do say so myself).
My tuna ravigote was beautifully presented and was a larger-scale version of what was served at the Wine Spectator event. Fresh and delicious, it is one of New York’s finest dishes.
My wife’s crab cake had excellent freshness and texture, but was a bit too salty.
My filet mignon Florentine was perfectly cooked to my medium rare specification. It was a generous tender steak, topped with spinach and served with a steak sauce that included pestled spinach and slices of nebrodini mushrooms. This was about as good as a filet can get.
My wife’s honey mustard duckling was nothing short of perfection on a plate. The duck meat was extremely tender and flavorful and the skin was delightfully crispy. I sampled her dish and we both agreed that it was the best preparation of duck that we had ever had.
All in all, our experience at Chef Carbone’s restaurant was wonderful, and we would strongly recommend The Grill as a Manhattan dining destination. When we next visit New York we will return for dinner.
Flight 40 - MONDAY, OCTOBER 23, 2017 (ANOTHER BROADWAY MUSICAL…THEN LATE BITES AND COCKTAILS AT THE RAINBOW ROOM) (1 Note)
For those who enjoyed the movie, the Andrew Lloyd Webber Broadway version of School of Rock is a unique pleasure. Especially enjoyable are the extremely talented youngsters who play musical instruments and sing. The young guitar player, Zachary Zwelling, gave a particularly compelling performance.
Following the play, we strolled to the Rainbow Room at Rockefeller Center. Located on the 65th floor of the NBC building, it is a large, smartly appointed restaurant and bar with amazing views of the entire city. We sat in the bar (called “Bar SixtyFive’), where we ordered cocktails and bites. The drinks, food and view were hard to beat. There is nothing like the Empire State Building as a backdrop!
Gin and tonic salmon tartare, made with Dorothy Parker gin, cured salmon, pickled lemon, dill aioli and tonic gelée, served with ultra-thin rye toast.
Triple-fried French fries, served with Champagne béarnaise. These were crispy on the outside, light and fluffy on the inside…perfect bar food.
Full and happy, we spent more time viewing the animate and inanimate sights of Times Square before returning to our hotel room, where we watched late-night TV and had a glass of Joseph Drouhin Saint-Véran.
Flight 41 - TUESDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2017 (MID-AFTERNOON MEAL AT TRIBECA GRILL) (1 Note)
Due to thunderstorms, United Airlines cancelled our flight to San Diego. We were able to book a flight for Wednesday, and fortunately the Marriott Marquis had room to accommodate us for another night (without even having to change rooms).
We decided to take lemons and make lemonade. While the rainy weather made it less desirable to go strolling in Midtown, in New York it is always easy to hail a cab. We accordingly rode to Tribeca Grill for a mid-afternoon meal.
Located in the trendy Tribeca neighborhood, Tribeca Grill reminds me of the bar/restaurant featured in the old TV show “Cheers.” A square-shaped vintage wooden bar sits in the middle of the restaurant, which is surrounded by wooden tables. On the walls are paintings drawn by one of the co-owners’ father (Robert De Niro, Sr.). The paintings are actually quite good, and the space has a nice relaxing vibe.
We ordered from the special “midday menu,” which is distinct from lunch and dinner. While I enjoyed perusing the extensive wine list (a Wine Spectator Grand Award winner), we ultimately settled on the great “Burger & Burgundy” deal. By ordering any red or white Burgundy from a selected list, the customers were entitled to two free burger meals. The offerings included six white wines (priced $89 to $595) and eighteen red wines (priced $89 to $899). We ordered the 2014 Jean-Marc Pavelot Chorey-lès-Beaune Les Beaumonts ($99). This turned out to be a good choice and was thoroughly enjoyable with the decadent, juicy burgers and equally decadent fries.
On our way back to the hotel, we stopped by Tribeca Wine Merchants, where we had shopped during a previous visit to New York. This is essentially Tribeca’s neighborhood wine shop, with many reasonably priced wines as well as some expensive gems (such as pristine-appearing 1961 Cheval Blanc for $2,100). We couldn’t resist buying a couple of bottles to take back to the room, although we ultimately did not have the stamina to finish more than half of each bottle.
Flight 42 - TUESDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2017 (A BROADWAY MUSICAL AND LATE-NIGHT ROOM SERVICE) (2 Notes)
In our attempt to squeeze every last bit of fun out of our trip, we decided to see another Broadway play. Anastasia is a phenomenal production. With excellent vocals, great acting and amazing sets, this is a Broadway musical that has something for everyone. Anastasia is yet another Broadway production that we would highly recommended for visitors and New York residents.
Later in the evening, we ordered room service snacks and sampled the Dureuil-Janthial Rully and Clos du Mont-Olivet Châteauneuf. These excellent wines paired well with various snacks, but half of each bottle was left behind when we finally hit the sack.
Closing
With the storm over and the return of mild weather, we were able to catch a Delta flight from JFK to San Diego. I write these closing comments from 35,000 feet, sad to be leaving New York but looking forward to returning to our beloved La Jolla.
This year’s trip to Manhattan was a whirlwind, as we packed numerous restaurants and Broadway shows around the Wine Spectator event. There was very little “down time” during our nine-day stay, but that is the way we wanted it. It was a wine, food and entertainment vacation on steroids!
As has always been the case, we were treated by New Yorkers with the utmost courtesy and respect. Autumn in the Big Apple is something special, and we cannot wait to return next year.
1999 Eraldo Viberti Barolo Riserva 92 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
(10/16/2017)
Despite being quite overpriced on a New York City restaurant's wine list and mishandled by the sommelier, this Barolo is still a joy to drink. Deep ruby and flush with earthy black cherry on the nose, it adds notes of tarragon, cardamom and tobacco. Medium-bodied, freshly acidic, lightly oaked and with nicely integrated alcohol (listed as 14%), it delivers flavors mirroring the nose and closes with good length. Unfortunately, sampling of this wine was cut significantly short because the sommelier, despite decantation, did not take the time to actually separate the wine from its sediment. At least 20% of this overpriced bottle was wasted, tainted by bitter, visible sediment. Assuming that the server of this wine observes basic decanting skills, it should show well for several more years. Drink now-2022.
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