Lunch at Cullen Winery

It could be the lovely setting (sitting on the verandah by the vineyards on a cool, sunny day), or the great company (good friends, sans kids), or just the fact that the wines were ex-domaine, fresh from the cellar, with a smidgen of age on them, but both of the pair Kevin John Chardonnay and Diana Madeleine Cab blend were punching well above their weight. Really good, classy stuff.

• 2010 Cullen Wines Chardonnay Kevin John 93 Points

  Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Margaret River

  A really nice expression - this was almost Burgundian in proportions. The nose had a little layer of white chocolate and vanilla alongside white flowers, melon fruit and a little twang of saline stone. Attractive, but it was on the palate where it really sang though. Drinking perfectly well now, it showed more of that succulent melon fruit first suggested on the nose, alongside a nice lift of citrusy fingerling limes, and then an underlining of stony minerality. This had a lovely fresh balance and liveliness to it, all the way from its sunny attack, through its nicely weighty midpalate, and into a long, nicely defined finish. A really accomplished new world Chardonnay. Lovely stuff that was drinking very nicely on the day.

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• 2007 Cullen Wines Diana Madeline 93 Points

  Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Margaret River

  Absolutely lovely with an hour decanting - this could pass off for a ripe St Julien or Margaux. The nose was a lovely blush of ripe, sunny cassis tones married to whiffs of smoked cedar, fragrant tobacco spice and just a little sniff of leather. It was a tad on the young side in the mouth, with a little shadow of powdery tannins on the palate still shading otherwise lovely clear tones of cassis and blackberries. All this again seasoned with just the right amount of spice, a touch of herb, and then a tiny drift of tobacco towards a juicy finish. With time, a more Australian character in shades of eucalyptus and menthol started peeking out as well. Still rather primary, but already well-integrated and absolutely enjoyable - this was everything one could ask for from a Margaret River Cab blend. It will be even better over the next 6-8 years.

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