Magnum Dinner for the Ages (and Aged)-Ponsot, Chave...

We were lucky enough to gather with a group of friends to celebrate life and a few birthdays, enjoy a timeless setting and its associated views, and take advantage of one of the world's greatest wine lists. Oh, I almost forgot the meal, which was also superb! A memorable evening to cap off a beautiful spring day in Paris.

• 1983 R. & L. Legras Champagne Grand Cru La Tour d'Argent Blanc de Blancs Brut

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  Magnum. Surprisingly light yellow with vigorous mousse. Hay and citrus. Medium weight, very creamy, terrific vanilla and juxtaposition of deeper, early oxidative flavors and residual lively citrus. This is in phenomenal shape and was an inspiring start to the meal.

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• 1993 Trimbach Riesling Clos Ste. Hune

  France, Alsace

  Magnum. Full yellow, slightly deeper than the Champagne. Secondary Riesling perfume, vegetal notes, and more peach with air. A lighter, more delicate Clos Ste. Hune that is not as fiercely acidic or focused as some, but the trade off was a wonderful, gentle, mellow roundness which made it a great match with a rich quenelle dish. Not an all time great, but for god's sake, a ridiculously good showing for a 25 year old dry white wine.

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• 1990 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

  Magnum. Red with tawny outer third. My god, the most sinuous, complex Burgundy aromatics I've smelled in a long time-seductive red fruit, anise, and herbs. Big, round wine just filled with sap, natural sweetness, clove, and the most alluring feel. Solid acidity, understated soil, tremendous length. A very great wine that is at peak out of this format. I'm sure that the impeccable storage conditions played a large role as well. Superb, moving wine. In a nutshell, the reason we crave older Burgundy.

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• 1990 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  Magnum. Deeper and more primary looking than the Ponsot. Briary herbs, soil, and deep red fruit. Medium weight, perfect balancing acidity, and a deep mineral core. The diiference between this and more recent riper vintages is that here the naturally sweet fruit is discrete, not roasted, and it supports rather than supplants everything else. This too is fantastic, only partially developed in this large format, and above all is wondrously elegant, silky, and complex for Hermitage. Iconic and a privilege to drink. I envy those with any remaining stocks of this wine.

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• 1989 Kientzler Riesling Geisberg Sélection de Grains Nobles

  France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru

  Medium golden color. High toned nose of honey and apricot. Medium weight, moderately sweet (on the lower end of SGN sugar, I would say). Very fresh stone fruit for it approaching 30 years of age, a little soft due to lower acidity. No worries-very enjoyable indeed.

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