Continuing Ed Wine Class - Northern Rhone

Tonight’s class focused on the wines of the Northern Rhone (reds) and was a good demonstration of the diverse expressions of the Syrah grape within a relatively small region. While I liked the Delas best, the others (with the exception of the Jaboulet) were all very well made, good wines. Based on others comments, the Guigal was probably the consensus favorite, but having recently had the 1999 d'Ampuis, I couldn't let go of what I knew this wine could attain when tasting the 2000 version.

• 2000 J.L. Chave Sélection Saint-Joseph Offerus 86 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Saint-Joseph

  In the glass, this was light reddish-purple, with a touch of effervescence. On the nose I picked up bell pepper, incense, white pepper, quince, chalk, roasted meat, and a subtle floral hint. Very austere in the mouth, with dried blackberry and a total lack of tannic structure. Good for an everyday drinker, but nothing terribly memorable.

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• 1999 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  I sincerely hope they all aren't like this - second time from same case, just really a mess, oxidized and falling apart way too soon. First impression is cloudy sediment in a much too pale red color. On the nose, mostly sundried tomato, olive, under-ripe blackberry, and Band Aid - none too enticing. Very tea-like in the mouth, thin, tannic, and without discernable fruit notes. Perhaps just bad bottle(s), but if this is indicative, it's not good now and going nowhere.

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• 2000 Jean-Luc Colombo Cornas La Louvée 90 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas

  Probably benefited from following the disappointing Jaboulet, but this is an inky, dark purple beauty. Aromas include vibrant plum, pipe smoke, black currant, leather, and some menthol. Very savory in the mouth, lush without being flabby, great mix of black fruits and Provencal spice, with enough acid to make everything stand out. The tannins are very assertive at this stage, probably getting even better with 5+ years of additional aging.

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• 2001 Jean-Luc Colombo Cornas Les Ruchets 92 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas

  Even better than the La Louvee, this had more glycerin, and is in a more modern style, which may or may not be a plus depending on how your palate is screwed on. On the nose were smoke, dark chocolate, rose petals, muted vanilla, and a whiff of salt air. A solid mouthfeel is complemented by licorice, black cherry, and rich waves of spice. A very long finish and stuffing to last 10 years or more - really good wine.

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• 1999 Delas Frères Côte-Rôtie Seigneur de Maugiron 93 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  My WOTN, and I think for others in the class as well, a real testament to the quality of the 99 vintage in Cote-Rotie. A solid color of black - shimmery ruby red was followed on the slow-to-open but very complex nose by blackberry, black cherry, tobacco, Asian spice, cloves, roasted ham, and maple sugar. In the mouth, this was slightly one-dimensional (give it time), but I did sense licorice, spicy black fruits, and roast game. The finish is really what pushed it over the top for me, so savory and complex with very bold yet well-integrated tannins - elegance, sex, power - easily a 20 year wine IMHO.

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• 2000 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie Château d'Ampuis 88 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  Medium weighted red/purple, probably not as dark as in top vintages. Nose was very interesting with more red than black fruits which was a bit surprising, also picked up baked earth, bacon fat, and peppery spices. Picked up some heat in this one, which I also got in the Chave St.-J, some black tea, cherry, and fig flavors were complemented by a nice if not blockbuster finish. Very well made, elegant wine, but just not the power I expect given the price of admission.

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