Monday Bouteille

Double blind tasting with 10 friends along a 3-course dinner at the Carlton (they charge no corkage on Monday's, service and especially the Sommelier are great).

One remark I need to make: It was a very warm evening in the middle of the heat wave with just barely enough wine to go around (1bt for 10ppl). As a consequence the juice in the glass got very warm very fast which left little time for ideal examination. Maybe in a better enviornment one or the other bottle could have scored a notch or so higher...

While we missed the opportunity to vote for the best bottle, names that got mentioned most often after were: Bionic Frog 2011, Eisele Araujo 2009, Le Moine Clos de Vougeot 2012.

• 2015 Château d'Esclans Côtes de Provence Garrus 94 Points

  France, Provence, Côtes de Provence

  A dry rosé with medium+ acidity and hardly perceptible tannins. Not being a fan of rosés, I was impressed by the flavour complexity this one had to offer with good precision and a surprisingly full body. The colour was pale and light salmon, so light in fact that people at the table wondered if it really was a rosé. Fairly long finish but with a bit of excess acidity unfortunately and the complexity drop-down to the palate was somewhat underwhelming and couldn't keep up with the stunning and delicate nose. Roses (or better: rose water), some citric notes but also mandarin and nectarine were supported by a pleasant smokiness. Ultimately wondering now if a short 15-30min decant would have boosted the experience even further? This being a rosé, the price tag gives you an immediate eye seizure – but quality backs up the price to a pretty large extent I found. Looking forward to tasting Chateau d'Esclans' other wines! I realize I'm above consensus here with the score but I think it is deserved. Go try!

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• 2009 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Blanc De L'Orée 94 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  Dry with an initial impression of medium- to low acidity but high flavour intensity and complexity. Texture was a tad too thin for my liking. Over time in the glass a sudden surge of minerality which reminded me of Burgundy Chardonnay. Some greenish fruit (apple) and stone fruit (nectarine) but on average a more tropical fruit profile (mango, passion fruit). Slightly smokey and toasty as well. I've confused Marsanne with Bordeaux whites time and time again and I think I'll never get the hang of this.

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• 2012 Weingut Knoll Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Vinothekfüllung 93 Points

  Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau

  Intense nose with flavours of ripe peach and the typical canned pineapple so typical of Grüner Veltliner. Also some honey, crème brulee or biscuits as secondary aroma components. A slightly oily texture provides for a pleasing drinking experience. Decent value for money if you can get a hold of it.

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• 2012 Lucien Le Moine Clos Vougeot 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru

  An incredibly precise fruit showing the essence of the pinot grape with red fruit (strawberry, raspberry). Very soft oak touch (bread), hardly noticeable. The texture was just a tad watery at this stage I found, but overall a solid structure thanks to good acidity and already smooth tannins that should provide for fabulous aging potential. While many at the table thought this was too young, I would argue you won't be disappointed opening a bottle now. All was in sync and well integrated.

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• 2011 Cayuse Syrah Bionic Frog 96 Points

  USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley

  Decanted 1.5h. High intensity fruit with spices serving as a seasoning and a striking aroma of olives, actually more olive paste. The initial fruit appeared red (cranberry) but turned darker quickly. Over time in the glass more and more gamey and meaty notes were thrown on the scale (beef jerky). A long finish with very good balance on the palate made this one of my highlights – although embarrassingly enough I did not recognize the Biomoc even though I brought this bottle to the tasting and even though this was not the first time drinking it!

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• 2012 Ca' Marcanda (Gaja) Bolgheri Camarcanda 92 Points

  Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri

  No decant. Initially still closed, but opened up after 20mins or so. No doubt still very young, but nevertheless showed a leathery, oaky side next to the fresh, bright and a even a bit dark fruit although the red, raspberry notes become more dominant over time. Also clear floral (roses, violets) and herbal (mint, maybe lavender) components. Give it another 3 years or so of bottle age. Over 1h in the glass the olfactory sensation went from ~90 to 94-95 and ended back at around 92.

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• 2006 Clarendon Hills Astralis 95 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, Clarendon

  Intense fruit leaning towards the darker side over time but with a distinctly bright core of strawberry as well. Floral scents of roses, herbs (eucalyptus) and spices (Asian 5 spices) as well as menthol (reminding me a bit of mouthwash, not in a bad way of course). A smooth almost velvety palate with lots of spices and full mouth feel offering a truly all-inclusive service to the sensory system. I liked this a lot and even though I didn't bring this bottle I'm happy to still have a couple of bottles in the cellar. In a Mad Max Thunderdome type of stand-off the Astralis would lose against the 2010 Run Rig from Torbreck, however, which we tasted a few days earlier.

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• 2015 Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia 95 Points

  Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri, Bolgheri Superiore

  First impression: Very floral (violets) with baking spices and a distinctly red cherry fruit. After 30 minutes in the glass more and more vanilla as well. Clearly still young and fresh, but with medium to high intensity already, well balanced palate and a firm structure. Looking very much forward to tasting this one again in 1 or 2 years. And then again and again and again...

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• 2009 Araujo Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Eisele Vineyard 94 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Nicely balanced from the start with a typical cassis punch (but also cranberry) and surprisingly popcorn-like scents (have only encountered this in white wines so far). Fresh, fruity and well integrated on the palate with tannins, alcohol, acidity and the fruit keeping each other in check. Very long finish.

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• 2002 Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Masseto Toscana IGT 92 Points

  Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

  My first Masseto. Unfortuantely on the nose there seemed to be something slightly off with a scent of a carbonated sweet drink - maybe some damage from aging in not ideal conditions (bottle was acquired in bulk along an entire cellar form a private person)? Or is it really just the "worst" Masseto (if you're even allowed to say that) since the late 90ies? Apart from that a fruit-centred nose with cranberry, strawberry, raspberry all there. The palate was beautiful, however, with good power, good balance and an overall mouth-feel that immediately screams for more.

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