Barrel and Bottle Tasting with Luca Roagna

I have written often and passionately about the Roagna Winery. This family and what they are accomplishing is, in my opinion, the next evolutionary step in Barolo. However, nothing could have prepared me for my visit there, speaking one-on-one with Luca Roagna, trudging (at times running and digging) through the vineyards, and then ending our journey with a vertical tasting of Crichet Paje in the family’s newly-completed winery and cellars.

The 2013's are off the charts good and sure to be a set of exciting wines to follow. I loved the primary fruit and vibrancy of the wines, mixed with the structure to age.

• 2013 Roagna Barbaresco Pajè

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  (Barrel Sample) Here I found vibrant red fruits, exotic florals, and lifting minerality. It was soft on the palate, showing zesty red fruits, sweet spices, and amazing energy. The ‘13 Paje was so fresh and pure, with a long and energetic finish. (93-95 points)

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• 2013 Roagna Barolo

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Barolo Terlo 2013 - (Barrel Sample) The nose showed intense mineral and animal tones up front, giving way to notions of strawberry and sweet cherry. It was soft and silky on the palate, showing pure red berries in a juicy expression, with lively acidity, inner florals and hints of leather. It finished fresh with hints of leather, cedar, sweet herbs and balanced fine tannin. There is a long life ahead for this wine. (94-96 points)

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• 2013 Roagna Barolo Pira

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  (Barrel Sample) The nose was intense and rich with dark red fruits. It was mineral-infused and spicy, displaying hints of orange peel and sweet haunting florals, as the wine seemed to gain further volume on the glass.. On the palate, it was silky, refined and quite elegant, with a mix of red and black fruits, sweet spices and inner floral tones. The finish was so long and supple yet structured with stimulating acids. (95-97 points)

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• 2013 Roagna Barbaresco Vecchie Viti Asili

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  (Barrel Sample) The nose showed mineral-infused dark red fruits, animal musk and intensely-perfumed florals. On the palate, it was silky with a core of tannin, followed by tart black and red fruits, minerals, and fine mounting tannins. The finish was long, dark and structured. (94-96 points)

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• 2013 Roagna Barbaresco Vecchie Viti Montefico

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  (Barrel Sample) The nose showed crushed cherry, undergrowth and perfumed florals. On the palate, it was silky yet complex, showing amazingly vibrant dark red fruits, minerals, inner florals and earth tones. The finish was long, with sweet dark red fruits, inner floral tones and fine lingering tannin. This is a stunning wine. (96-98 points)

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• 2013 Roagna Barbaresco Vecchie Viti Pajè

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  (Barrel Sample) The nose was herbal, floral, and peppery, displaying fresh strawberry, cedar, and leather in an incredibly pretty expression. It was silky on the palate, with masses of pure red fruits, inner florals, minerals and leather tones. The finish resonated on dark red fruits, showing staying power yet remarkable purity, and a tannic structure that seemed to grow throughout. (95-97 points)

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• 2013 Roagna Barolo Vecchie Viti Pira

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  (Barrel Sample) The nose was alluringly dark, sweet and vibrant, showing intense dark red fruits, confectionary spice, and sweet herbs. Silky textures greeted me on the palate, along with red fruits and haunting florals, elevated by amazingly pure, high-energy acidity, which slowly gave in to fine tannin. The finish was long, structured and refined, with staining red fruits, cheek-puckering tannin, and masses of inner floral tones. (97-99 points)

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• 2013 Roagna Barbaresco Faset

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  (Barrel Sample) The nose was wonderfully perfumed and spicy, showing zesty minerals with pretty bright red fruits, florals and herbs. It was soft and caressing on the palate, yet energetic, showing pure red fruits, savory minerals, and inner floral tones. The finish was long yet energetic and fresh, leaving a remarkably pretty impression. (93-94 points)

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The generosity of Luca, sharing these wines with me, was unexpected and more appreciated than I think he will ever know.

• 2010 Roagna Barbaresco Crichët Pajé

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  (Barrel Sample) The nose was incredibly layered, showing crushed stone, dried orange, ripe strawberry, dusty spices, wild florals, and a hint of animal musk. On the palate, I found silky textures, yet vibrant as well, as dark red fruits, orange peel, inner florals, minerals, sweet spices, and fine tannin mounted on the senses, building energy and offset by brisk acidity. The finish was remarkably long and structured, yet fresh as well. It’s not often that I put something like this is writing, but the 2010 Crichet Paje may be a perfect wine. (98-100 points)

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• 2008 Roagna Barbaresco Crichët Pajé 96 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  Here I found a zesty expression with cranberry, dried orange peel, wild herbs, woodland earth tones, animal musk, florals, and ripe strawberry, On the palate, it was silky yet precise, showing dried red fruits, with savory minerals, in a soft expression with building tannins, which were offset by the textbook acidity of the 2008 vintage. It was incredibly long, structured and precise on the finish, begging for another ten to fifteen years in the cellar, but already willing to give a glimpse of the great things to come.

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• 2006 Roagna Barbaresco Crichët Pajé 97 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  Amazing. The nose was dark yet perfumed with a mix of red and black fruits, as notes of dried fall leaves, minerals, black soil, crushed sea shell, apricot, and a hint of lemon zest completed the picture. On the palate, I found silky, deep textures with dark red fruits, yet structured and refined from start to finish, flexing its 2006 tannins. It was so long and intense through the finish, amazing in its balance yet severe with its structure, as dried red fruits lingered long. This is a wine for the ages.

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• 2005 Roagna Barbaresco Crichët Pajé 95 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  The nose showed crushed strawberry with marine inspired minerals, sweet florals, and dusty spices. On the palate, I found a remarkably fresh expression with strawberry, cedar and spice, as inner florals completed the experience. It was remarkably pretty, savory and mineral-laden all at the same time. The finish was long, zesty yet saturating with fine tannin…lasting LONG. With each sip, the 2005 seemed to glide across the palate with grace. What a beautiful and understated wine.

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• 2004 Roagna Barbaresco Crichët Pajé 96 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  The nose was dark and much more mature than expected, showing layers of mulled cherry, sweet spice, undergrowth, tobacco, peach, and floral tones. On the palate, I found a soft and vibrant expression, with tart red fruits giving way to cedar and spice, along with hints of leather, showing amazingly balanced acids, contrasting minerals, and savory herbs. The finish was long and pure with hints of fine tannin, yet already drinking so well. Incredibly beautiful to taste right now.

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My hat is off to you, Luca. I am officially humbled, and I left this tasting knowing that it was one of the greatest experiences of my life in wine.