IMW - Cab / Cab Franc Panel Tasting 2018
Hyatt, San Francisco
Tasted Monday, October 30, 2017 by RajivAyyangar with 118 views
Introduction
Mary Margaret (MW, Screaming Eagle)
Matt Diez (sp?) - Jonata
Delia Viader (sp?) - Viader
Andy Erickson - Favia, cons. Dalle Valle
Philippe Melka - Haut Brion, Petrus
Flight 1 - Jonata (3 Notes)
Matt: 2700 degree days, cool Winkler 2. 100 degree-days less than Carneros. Cab needs sand. In Bdx, they grow CF because it breaks-bud a week before CS, which is problematic... In SB, it breaks bud around the same time as Cab, then comes in 7-10 days later than Cab. CF bleaches in the hot sun - end up with pink clusters. stops metabolizing. Bad jalapeno in those berries. We've stopped pulling afternoon-side leaves. (heat stress -> pyrazines don't break down?).
These vintages were challenging. 2008 - frosts, wind during fruit set. The varietal difference shows more during challenging years. 2010 was coldest weather in years in SB. Then had issues with bunch rot.
The level of tannin ripeness in central coast is way different than Napa. Pumpovers don't work the same way. Cab franc tannins are very rough - "diamond shaped". Used to pump-over 4x/day, 2 minutes a pumpover. But now do it very seldom. Tried extended maceration to fill-in the tannin profile, but it formed a green edge to the seed and skin tannins.
Matt asked: Do you use the VCC clone of Cab Franc? (Andy - yes - has tannins but has red shoot tips - I think it’s Cab Franc). Is it CF? Tastes like CF and PV.
Matt’s assessment of recent Central Coast vintages - all drought-driven and similar.
2015 - people point to this as the one to hang their hat on
2014 - serious
2013 - fleshy
2012 - big tannins
2011 - herbal
Flight 2 - Viader (2 Notes)
Delia: Our CF is a Cheval Blanc clone. CF is the "doughnut" - It can be hollow in the middle. DARE (cab franc) is meant to have more approachable texture, and to be consumed sooner.
Flight 3 - Favia (2 Notes)
Andy Erickson.
Flight 4 - Melka (2 Notes)
Philippe Melka.
2008 Jonata Winery El Alma de Jonata 91 Points
USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
75% cab franc, 10 cab, 10 merlot, 5 petit verdot. Co-fermented.
Deep ruby color. Gingerbread oak spice, stewed and slightly dried bell peppers (pyrazines), and a hint of ripe black cherry. Has a suggestion of a deep dried-rose aspect as well.
Full-bodied, feels 14% alcohol, strong elevated acid and medium plus tannins (a bit more papery than the cabs - not as sweet/refined).
~60% new French barrique.
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2008 Jonata Winery El Desafio de Jonata 87 Points
USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
84% cab, the rest cab franc, merlot, petit verdot.
Deep ruby color. Very ripe blackcurrant - speaks of the sun, has just a hint of raisination. A slight stewed-capsicum pyrazines. Well-integrated oak spice (nutmeg, banana bread crust, gingerbread). Rich on the palate, full-bodied with high alcohol (feels 15%), medium acid, medium plus tannins. Excellent mid-palate concentration and integration. Long finish. Excellent example of ripe Cab, but not as structured as I'd like.
~60% new French barrique.
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2010 Jonata Winery El Desafio de Jonata 90 Points
USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
Difficult vintage - cold and rot issues. 45% cab, 40% cab franc, the rest is Merlot and PV.
Deep ruby color. Ripe blackcurrant - less ripe than the '08. A bit crunchy and tart - more similar to how I remember young, unfinished Spottswoode. Showing more prominent pyrazines - a hint of fresh bell pepper and herbs. This tastes like cab franc with ripeness. Full body and feels 14.5% alcohol. Has notably elevated acidity and medium plus tannins. Bright and complex with a long finish. Totally different wine to 2008.
~60% new French barrique.
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