Gareth’s ‘40th’

Lobster on cornbread followed by cep vol au vent

• NV Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée 91 Points

  France, Champagne

  New label, but no code. Cork suggests 07 disgorgement, so probably 2000 base. Mid straw. A good dose of vanilla on the nose initially. Nicely rich and weighty. Something s little volatile and vegetal on the mid palate, though this does appear to lift. Solidly Krug without hitting the heights it can ****

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• 2002 Perrier-Jouët Champagne Belle Epoque 93 Points

  France, Champagne

  Magnum. Pale straw. Fresh on the nose with a touch of chalk. Initially quite ripe and rounded on the attack with a sense of evolution. Tightens up in the glass and sheds its years. Still very youthful. Lovely line. Slightly drying on the finish. (After the Chablis this seems quite padded with a touch of vanilla.) lovely and a great advert for magnums. ****

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Turbot, wild eel, barley, lemon verbena

• 2005 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Bottle 1. Mid straw. Mid weight. A touch of caramel. Quite rich on the mid-palate. Some mineral grip, but a softer pair of gloves than the Bougerots. Harmonious though. A nod towards C de B stylistically. ****

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• 2005 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 95 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Bottle 2. Very proper. Cooler and cleaner and exuding typicity. A cooler, more classical version of bottle
  One. Younger and fresher. Lovely line, but with the fine padding of proper GC weight whilst retaining its essence of Chablis. Line, length but also symmetry. Just right. *****

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• 2005 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Côte Bouguerots 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Initially slightly more evolved than Clos bottle 1, but with ten minutes of air it tightens its belt and slims up nicely to show a taut, lithe frame. Fresher, more typically Chablis. A saline grateing quality to the finish. Longer and more linear. Finally eclipsed by bottle
  2 of the Clos that demonstrates the ideal to which Chablis aspires. ****1/2

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Hare with mouserons

• 1978 Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 95 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Magnum. Having had a five star bottle earlier in the year, a five star mag follows. Proper claret nose. Cedar. A nose of sous bois. So harmonious and complete. Just lovely. A richness but so classical and balanced. Effortless. *****

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• 1993 Laurel Glen Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Sonoma Mountain 92 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Mountain

  Magnum. Quite deep and rich. Freshness too, but lacks the sheer harmony of the Mondavi alongside. The richness works better with the hare, but not quite there comparatively, which is a shame, because it’s a very decent wine indeed. ****

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Venison, pink beeetroot, sweede etc

• 1997 Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie 95 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  Magnum. Iron, blood. A little lift. Scented. The best parts of agricultural. Just gorgeous. Couldn’t be anything else. Archetypal
  Côte Rôtie. *****

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• 1985 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Magnum. Fresher almost, than a bottle 12 years ago. Cedar, cigar box, mellow slightly flabby fruit. Just lovely on the nose. Mellow with a touch of tobacco. Classic claret. Just lacks a bit of vertical cut cf (for instance) LLC. Slightly horizontal in aspect. Very good though and a pleasure to drink. ****

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Lemon tart, Miyagowa, bergamot

• 2007 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 93 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Mid straw. Fresh. A touch of sherbet. Lovely balancing acidity. Somewhere between youthful expressiveness and more nuanced maturity. Lovely though, and beautifully balanced ****

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