Iconic bottles: Barolo & Barbaresco Tasting

Maialino, NYC Lexington and 21st
Tasted Sunday, October 21, 2018 by Eric Guido with 297 views

Flight 1 (2 Notes)

1988 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano 97 Points

Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

Upon first pouring, there was hesitation around the table, as the ‘88 Santo Stefano was at first showing muddled, ripe red fruits and little depth. Talk started that it may be over the hill, or have suffered heat damage at one point in it’s life--but that conversation ended quickly, as the wine blossomed in the glass. Suddenly we were presented with a display of sweet tea leaves, crushed ripe strawberry, and sweetly spiced florals, as hints of undergrowth, minerals and cedar formed. On the palate, it was silky-soft, and flowed across the senses like sweetened roses and violets in liquid form, as notes of cherries formed with vibrant thrust through a wave of zesty acidity. The finish was long, intensified by a mix of lingering acid, minerals and spice. In the end, it was the runner up for wine of the night, which nearly everyone at the table agreed upon.

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1998 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano 95 Points

Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

As I sat with the ‘98 and the ‘88 in front of me, I realized that picking between the two would be difficult. Here I found a bouquet that was, at first, restrained, yet opened to reveal dusty rose florals, with crushed stone and sweet smoke, as mineral-laced spices wafted up from the glass, backed by black cherry. On the palate, velvety textures enveloped the senses, yet it remained energetic and spry, as a mix of zesty acidity and spiced dark-red fruits saturated, leaving hints of grippy tannin which added precision, while inner earth tones emerged. The finish was long, showing a mix of minerals and savory herbs with lingering tannin. Where the ‘88 to my left was sugar and spice, the ‘98 was savory and wonderfully on point.

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Flight 2 (4 Notes)

2014 Giovanni Rosso Barolo Ester Canale Rosso Vigna Rionda 95 Points

Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

The ‘14 Vigna Rionda was so densely packed and poised, a quality that I don’t often associate with the vintage. The bouquet was beautiful, both savory and spicy showing zesty tart cherries and cranberry with hints of spiced dried orange, crushed stone minerality, sweet rosy florals and savory botanicals. On the palate, I found soft textures, which were firmed up quickly by a mix of saline-minerality and brisk acidity, as notes of citrus-kissed strawberry, cedar, and earth tones emerged along with grippy mineral-laden tannin. The finish was long and structured with fine tannins saturating the senses while dried red berries, savory herbs and hints of cedar lingered. This was one of the most structured and backward 2014’s I’ve tasted, in need of a long slumber in the cellar, yet gorgeous.

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1989 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda 99 Points

Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

The bouquet was remarkably deep and layered with masses of pure black cherry and ripe strawberry fruit giving way to a mix of sweet mineral-infused Indian spice, hints of balsamic, and smoky crushed stone. On the palate, I found the most silky, fine textures imaginable, like a veil being pulled across the senses, ushering in vibrant, fleshy cherry fruit, offset by savory minerals and spice, with inner rose and cedar notes, as hints of fine tannin slowly mounted. The finish was long, showing the first signs of the ‘89’s twenty-nine years, as savory minerals, moist earth, and dried floral tones resonated amidst saturating dried cherries and spice. I am in awe of how the ‘89 Collina Rionda has lived up to all of the hype.

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1989 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Falletto di Serralunga d'Alba

Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

The nose showed dusty spice with hints of dried orange, tart cherry, it was almost musty with a hint of earthy undergrowth, and slight oxidation. On the palate, I found soft textures, giving way to fleshy cherry and hints of balsamic spice as tart acidity tugged at the senses, leaving grippy tannin and a bitter note of amaro. The finish was long yet dominated by acid and tannin with only hints of dried red fruits. My suspicion was that this bottle was flawed, and so I decided not to score it.

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1989 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Villero di Castiglione Falletto 94 Points

Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

When asked what I thought of the ‘89 Villero, with three glasses in front of me for that flight, I looked down and realized that it was nearly gone, even though I hadn’t started writing tasting notes, which I believe, says a lot. The Villero is in a wonderful place right now, pure pleasure in a glass, with dusty dark red fruits, roses, dried herbs, minerals and floral undergrowth on the nose. Soft textures greeted the palate, along with brisk acidity which gave way to fleshy ripe cherry, with minerals and spice, in a “drink-me-now” expression that was wonderfully enjoyable. The finish was long, showing sweet and sour red fruits, zesty remnants of acidity and the slightest hint of residual tannin. It was such a pretty wine, and I realize that my score is lower than the last time I tasted it, but that may be the result of having it next to the ‘89 Collina Rionda.

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Flight 3 (3 Notes)

1990 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Falletto di Serralunga d'Alba 96 Points

Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

The nose was gorgeous with it’s ripe black cherry and plum fruits, backed by balsamic tones, exotic Indian spices, dried florals and dark minerality. Gaining richness and body in the glass, it presented creamy textures, like liquid velvet offset by a core of balanced acidity, as fleshy ripe cherry, spices and earthy minerality drenched the senses. The finish was unbelievably long yet fresh, resonating on dark red fruits, with hints of green olive, and the first sign of lingering tannin. Without a doubt, the last time I tasted the 1990, it was either a flawed bottle or in an odd stage, because tonight it was amazing, and came in third place for WOTN.

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2000 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Le Rocche del Falletto di Serralunga d'Alba 95 Points

Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

The 2000 Falletto was stunning in it’s open-knit style and vibrant persona. The nose was layered, dark and sweetly spiced, with a lifting mix of tart cherry, cranberry, exotic florals, and sweet herbs, as balancing notes of animal musk and undergrowth emerged over time. On the palate, I found a silky-soft expression with floral tart cherry, energized by zesty acidity, giving way to dark minerality and inner rose. The finish was long, as grippy tannins emerged, offset by juicy cherry with hints of citrus and spice. Simply gorgeous.

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1995 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino 94 Points

Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

The ‘95 Monfortino was painfully young, yet showing a glimpse of great things to come. The nose was dark, arriving in layers, showing rich balsamic-infused red fruits with sweet herbs, tobacco, fresh roses and sweet, lifting minerality. On the palate, I found silky textures over a core of youthfully grippy tannin and tense acidity, as tart red fruits fought to make themselves known amidst spiced citrus, saline minerality and cedar, yet though it all rosy florals resonating toward the finale. The finish was stern, structured and lean like a stallion, as tart black cherry and savory herbs lingered long. I can’t say exactly how long the ‘95 needs, but I believe that ten more years in the cellar certainly won’t hurt.

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