2018 Visit to Marchesi di Grésy with Jeffrey Chilcott

Martinenga, Barbaresco
Tasted Wednesday, January 2, 2019 by HowardNZ with 221 views

Introduction

We returned to Barbaresco for a quick tasting before dinner with Jeffrey Chilcott at Marchesi di Grésy.

Jeffrey is a Kiwi who has lived for more than 30 years in Piemonte. He's also a great guy and an excellent host for a tasting or a dinner.

Marchesi di Grésy has a monopole vineyard - Martinenga - on the 'Grand Cru' hill in Barbaresco, at 280 metres above sea level. Vigna Camp Gros (the "s" is pronounced) is on the right of the winery (below Rabajà) and has a southwest exposure. Vigna Gaiun is on the left, below Asili, and is direct south. The Camp Gros is aged largely in Slavonian 12.5HL oak casks, while the Gauin is aged in French barriques (around one-third new).

Flight 1 (7 Notes)

  • 2015 Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy Barbaresco Martinenga

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

    Bottled in May 2018. New oak barrels 30%. Nice aromatics, perfumed. Lots of spicy red fruit. Sweet seeming tannins. Juicy fruit. “Fresher than the 2011s”, Thierry observed. “Just a Bambina”, said Jeffrey. A difficult wine to evaluate, this early.

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  • 2014 Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy Barbaresco Martinenga

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

    An attractive 2014 Pinot-like bouquet of red cherries and other red fruit and florals. Vibrant, rich fruit on the palate. Medium bodied. “Putting on a bit of weight now”, said Jeffrey, “it’s self-confident”. Precise and focused. Crunchy cherry and raspberry fruit, with gravelly minerals. Presently, looking much better than the 2015.

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  • 2013 Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy Barbaresco Martinenga

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

    A ‘deeper’ seeming nose of dark fruit and menthol, with lifted floral and spicy aromas. A very attractive bouquet suggesting both dark rose and violet perfumes. On palate, the best of the three Martinengas. Succulent, ripe and opulent fruit. More volume and power than the other two Barbarescos. Nice fresh acidity. Nonetheless, a young, tightly coiled wine, needing another 3-5 years, I’d say.

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  • 2013 Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy Barbaresco Martinenga Gaiun

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

    A classy wine and a step up from the previous Martinengas. On bouquet, first melted road tar, then soil, spices, black cherry and menthol, finishing on a hint of orange zest. In the mouth, fresh and bright. Deep and concentrated, showing good, ripe fruit. Plenty of volume and power. It finishes on slightly bitter tannins, this Barolo will need a few years cellar time (5+ years?).

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  • 2012 Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy Barbaresco Riserva Martinenga Camp Gros

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

    Since 2010, the Camp Gros has been made as Marchesi di Grésy’s only Riserva. Made traditionally in large, neutral botti. A vibrant ruby colour. An attractive bouquet of black cherries and dark plums, earth and wet brushwood. Also, on palate, earth tones with blackberries and dark cherries. Bright fruit with serious weight and power. Very good. Wine of the tasting. Ideally, it needs 3-4 more years.

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  • 2009 Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy Barbaresco Martinenga

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

    Served blind by Jeffrey. An interesting, developed, complex nose of Campari, liquorice, aniseed and dark fruit. Somewhat medicinal (as a positive descriptor). That evolved character carried through to the palate, expressed as dried leaf, tobacco and game meat nuances. Fleshy, generous fruit and seamless. Very good. “The Martinenga presently drinking the best”, noted Jeffrey.

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  • 2005 Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy Barbaresco Martinenga Gaiun

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

    Elevated fresh dark cherry and blackcurrant notes on bouquet with a hint of volatile acidity. Also creosote and dark spices. Compared to the primary-seeming bouquet, more development evident on palate. Tarry, leathery and earthy with some porcini and fresh and dried black fruit. Refreshing acidity well aligned with the fruit. Some oak yet to fully integrate though.

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