2018 Visit to GB Burlotto with Fabio

It is appropriate that our last winery visit in Piemonte on this trip was to GB Burlotto. GB Burlotto is a favourite producer, and was a “must visit”, for all in our group.

We began our visit with a quick tour of the historic, old winery. First, winemaker Fabio Alessandria showed us his open top fermenters. We got onto the topic of weather and recent vintages. He said, Verduno being a higher, more marginal Barolo area, “recent global warming has been great for GB Burlotto”. He noted the “wet spring this year [2018]”, where he had to spray for mildew.

Fabio said that his Monvigliero and Dolcetto grapes are the only ones where he does 100% whole bunch. Other grapes are 100% destemmed. Typical times for macerations in the winery are usually between 14 and 22 days. The exception is the Monvigliero, where maceration is “much longer”, up to two months.

Fabio pumps over and punches down for all of his wines except for the Monvigliero where the handling is “very gentle”, being submerged cap only, after the famous foot-treading.

Fabio next showed us his cellar from the 1700s and talked about his famous great-great-grandfather GB Burlotto (1850-1927). Fabio continues to use traditional, large format casks.

The estate is also effectively organic but is not certified. Fabio is a non-interventionist, trying to make his wines as naturally as possible.

Fabio talked about some of his recent Barolo vintages:

- 2013 and 2014: “Both vintages are in the same family. They are both cooler vintages. They have similar alcohol levels. However, 2013 is more complete”, said Fabio. In 2014, there was no Barolo Acclivi.

- “2015 is a very different vintage to 2013 or 2014, bigger and riper”.

- 2016 and 2017: there will be Acclivi in both vintages. In the cellar, Fabio pointed at two of his botti and said that the 2017 Monvigliero was a low yield and that those botti are the full 2017 vintage.

• 2017 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Langhe Sauvignon Blanc Viridis

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC

  The sauvignon blanc is made in stainless steel only. Fabio mentioned that GB Burlotto’s sauvignon blanc vines were planted in 1986 (Jeff noted that Marchesi’s were planted in 1988). A generous nose of gooseberry, passionfruit and pineapple but also herbs, wet river boulder and a little cut hay. On palate, fresh, bright passionfruit. “This wine can age” said Fabio because it is “alive and sapido [having a strong, pleasant taste], due to the chalky soil”. Showing more acidity and rocky minerality, and less herbaceousness, than a classic Marlborough NZ sauvignon blanc. Fabio agreed with this comment, pointing to the dryness of his sauvignon. A sauvignon I liked very much.

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• 2017 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Verduno Pelaverga

  Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Verduno Pelaverga

  Recently bottled. 20,000 bottles. Vivid ruby colour. A fresh, breezy nose. Perfumed with notes of blackcurrant, wild blackberry and even some blueberry, with florals. “Carnations”, said Thierry. On palate, pure and clean, with that intense wild berry element. Persistent acidity. “Wild strawberries and herbs”, said Fabio. Head and shoulders the best Pelaverga tasted today.

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• 2016 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barbera d'Alba Aves

  Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d'Alba

  Deep, dark colour. A serious bouquet of blackcurrants, black liquorice, dark plum, crème de cassis, chalky minerals and a little musk. On palate, very rich and ripe, yet quite precise. Good fruit volume on the mid and back palate. “Super generous”, said Luca. Fruit well balanced by acidity. Lovely, satiny mouthfeel.

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• 2016 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Langhe Freisa

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC

  Ten days on skins for the 2016. Vivid maroon colour. An exuberant, slightly feral bouquet of wild berries, fresh and dried herbs, bloody, smoky barbequed venison, dark chocolate and black fruit. Very intense and powerful in the mouth. Seamless, not all rustic, I thought. In proportion and balance. Fresh acidity. An excellent Freisa. “This Freisa will age”, said Fabio. Referring to the common genealogy with Nebbiolo, Fabio stated: “Freisa is the country cousin, Nebbiolo is the city cousin”, which I thought was a little tough given the quality of his Freisa! Jeff and Fabio then proceeded to try to list all the Piemontese Freisa producers (concluding there were something like 9-11 such producers).

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• 2014 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Just Verduno fruit. Intense ruby colour. Classic 2014 Barolo aromatics with red and black cherries, lifted floral notes and touches of orange peel and spice. A Pinot-like flavour profile but with a different fruit weight and tannin structure. Suave, smooth tannins. Focussed, driven acidity. Mainly dark cherry and black plums on palate with flecks of chalky minerality. “A great expression of Verduno”, said Luca. Normally some surplus Monvigliero fruit goes into the Acclivi. In 2014 no Acclivi was made, so that fruit is here. Very good, at this level.

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• 2014 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Vines averaging 45 years of age. Fabio noted that the Monvigliero soil (“white soil”) was similar to the Brunate and Cerequio soils in La Morra. This is different to Cannubi, where there is more sand. A beautiful bouquet: berry compote, rosehip and violet perfumes, dried herbs, earth and slightly charred, smoky venison. On the palate, pure and beautifully balanced. Virtually the complete package in terms of fruit, acids, structure and tannins. “Lightness and power, a great first entry”, said Thierry while Andrew described it as “Monfortino level” (however, I’d put it slightly behind the 2014 Monfortino we tasted). Very 2014, a lighter expression. Yet surgically precise, polished and powerful. Very long. To me, not far behind the brilliant 2013 Monvigliero in quality. One of the best wines tasted on the trip. Accessible at the time of tasting but ideally hold for 5-8+ years.

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• 2014 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Cannubi

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  As earlier, Fabio noted the higher proportion of sand in the soil here, as compared with the “white soil” of Monvigliero. From a 0.7 ha vineyard. Less aromatically thrilling than the Monvigliero, more closed. Black fruit, dark florals, earth and black spices. On palate, more separate component parts yet to come together. Quite fresh but a little clunky. Someone described the Cannubi as a “light expression of heavy Barolo fruit”, which seemed to capture it. Presently hard to assess at the time of tasting. It needs time. Hold for 8-10+ years.

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An excellent tasting with Fabio and a great day in Verduno!