2018 Visit to Domaine William Fèvre with Alain Marcuello

Domaine William Fèvre is my third favourite Chablis house – after Raveneau and Vincent Dauvissat – and is a good place to visit to get a good perspective on current Chablis vintages and the climats. Fèvre is one of the biggest land owners in Chablis with 78 ha of vineyards, of which 15.9 ha are 1ers and 15.2 ha are Grand Cru. They have at least 18 labels including seven of the eight Grand Crus.

We talked with Alain about recent Fèvre vintages with me saying that 2008, 2010, 2012 and 2014 were my recent favourites. Alain did not seem to disagree with my view saying that he thought 2017 might make my list once the 2017s are released.

Alain talked about recent Fèvre vintages, in the context of the 2016 vintage:

- 2012: “Riper, fuller bodied than 2016. Better acidity. A little lighter in 2016”.

- 2013: “Tropical fruit, very different from 2016”.

- 2014: A “perfect vintage” for Fèvre.

- 2015 and 2016: “Non-typical Chablis vintages”, said Alain, wondering if “2018 might be the same?”. He noted that, in his view, “2016 is a more balanced vintage than 2015”, although volumes were down due to frost, two lots of hail and diseases. He stated however that there was “no botrytis at all” in 2016.

- 2017: “a classical vintage”. “The best stylistic comparison for 2017 is 2014 not [my suggestion of] 2007”, said Alain.

When I raised the issue of premox with Alain he just said “Since 2010 we have used diam for all of our wines.”

Alain said that the oak used by Fèvre is all older (1-8 years of age) barrels.

Alain mentioned that global warming had really benefited Fèvre’s Valmur site but unfortunately we did not get the chance to try a Valmur.

After the tasting, I would not add 2016 to my list of top, recent Chablis vintages although, overall, I’d rate it as better than 2015. The couple of minor 2017s we had made me hopeful about the vintage.

The prices noted were the cellar prices.

• 2016 William Fèvre Petit Chablis

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Petit Chablis

  Only raised in stainless steel, said Alain. A crisp green apple, greengage and citrus bouquet. On palate, a nice entry level Chablis. Citrus, pear and some minerality. Good concentration and fruit density for a Petit Chablis. “More balanced than the 2015 Petit Chablis”, noted Alain. Euros 11.90.

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• 2016 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis

  France, Burgundy, Chablis

  Oak barrels 10%. A richer, sweeter nose of mandarin and grapefruit citrus, pear and nectarine. A richer, ripe-seeming palate. A little citric but with more orchard fruit. Good body, concentration and power for this level. Euros 16.

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• 2016 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis 1er Cru Côte de Léchet

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  Alain said that this 1er was purchased fruit, not a Domaine wine. From a steep vineyard facing south-east. A clear step up from the earlier wines. Limes, chalky minerals and iodine on the pungent bouquet. Lovely mouthfeel. Attractive gravelly minerals. Mainly green fruit: green apples, greengage plums and lime juice. Refreshing acidity. Euros 23.

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• 2016 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  South-eastern exposure, 50 year old vines. An attractive bouquet packed full of fully ripe orchard fruit – peaches, apricot and pears – and a dash of tropical fruit. Also cream and meadow flowers with a honeycomb touch. Better again than the Léchet. Good fruit volume on palate. Clean and mineral. Acceptable acidity. Citric and stone fruit, with pineapple and some other exotic fruit. Alain emphasised that there was no botrytis here. Euros 23.

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• 2016 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis 1er Cru Les Lys

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  A north-east-facing exposure, pure Kimmeridgian soil and 65+ year old vines. New oak 30%. The best wine yet with real Chablis typicity. Crunchy green apple acidity with lime citrus, wet limestone and chalk. Taut and focused, racy acidity. Malic with chalky minerality, pears, limes and iodine. A dry, long finish. A very good 1er. Value at Euros 29.90.

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• 2016 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  But better again. “Touching Les Preuses – a declassified Grand Cru”, said Alain. Barrel fermented 50%. A Chablis-typical bouquet of lemon zest, Granny Smith apple, oyster shell and tide pool. In the mouth, fine acidity. More depth and power than the Les Lys. Grand Cru-like structure and length. Long, dry finish. “Great ageing potential”, said Alain. Euros 37.

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• 2016 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Blanchot

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Not Domaine, purchased grapes, noted Alain. Again, 50% oak fermented. A nose of yellow spices, citrus, pears and yellow apples. On palate, good weight and complexity. A fine acid structure. Tensile and flinty. Quite mineral. Good Grand Cru Chablis. Euros 47.50.

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• 2016 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  “From a larger vineyard, richer soil, more sun”, said Alain. Again, 50% oak fermented. Aromas of baking spices, poached pear, grapefruit citrus and clotted cream. In the mouth, Grand Cru weight and power. “Seamless build on the palate, quite elegant”, said Andrew. However, I thought that the Bougros was too broad, lacking Chablis typicity, minerality and nuance. Perhaps it needs more time? Euros 49.50.

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• 2016 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Côte Bouguerots

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  “Here the soil is limited, shallow, the site is close to the river”, noted Alain. Élevage 70% in oak. A breezy, fine bouquet of citrus, slate, chalk and flint. Also finer and more precise on palate. “Tighter, and more focussed than the Bougros”, said Mark. Racy, sparkling acidity. Plenty of dry extract, minerality and drive. The second best wine of the day. Hold for 5-6 years and it will, if it survives premox, last 20+ years. Euros 62.

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• 2015 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  An obviously richer, riper bouquet. I did not like this Chablis very much. I found it too full and broad and lacking in acidity, focus and definition. Euros 49.50.

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• 2014 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Wine of the day. Élevage 70% in oak. A lovely bouquet of meadow flowers, newly fallen yellow apples, pears, limes, oyster shell and subtle spices. On palate, complex, detailed and layered. Laser-like precise acidity and excellent fully ripe fruit. Serious fruit volume and concentration. Clean and fresh without a hint of oxidation. Drinking beautifully now but it is a cellar wine with a long potential life, again if it escapes premox. Value at Euros 47.50.

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• 2012 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  After some reduction and sulphides, mealy, lactic aromas. That mealy, reduced nature was reflected in the palate. Grapefruit, pears and soil. A strange wine or, perhaps, at a strange point in its development? I liked it on a previous tasting at the Domaine four years ago. Any way, for me, a pass at this stage. Euros 49.50.

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• 2017 William Fèvre Petit Chablis

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Petit Chablis

  Back down the range to the new 2017s … A fresh, clean, steely and flinty bouquet, also suggesting some fruit richness. On palate, fresh and lively. A good Chablis at this level, better than the 2016 version, I thought. Euros 11.90.

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• 2017 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis

  France, Burgundy, Chablis

  Also Chablis typicity here. Green apple, limestone, oyster shell, citrus and chalk. À point. Refreshing acidity. A good little entry level Chablis, better than the 2016 equivalent. Euros 13.

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• 2017 William Fèvre Saint-Bris

  France, Burgundy, Côtes d'Auxerre, Saint-Bris

  Served blind by Alain. Clear sauvignon blanc typicity. Grapefruit, passionfruit, lemon, dried herbs and pineapple. Not as herbaceous as a NZ sauvignon blanc. Good crisp acidity. Nice and dry. Euros 8.90.

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