1996 Burgundy Retrospective - The Second Session

This was the second of the five sessions. Six of us gathered at our usual spot, Eddie V in Tysons Corner.

In lieu of the 96 vintage and the provenance, the wines remained incredibly youthful. Most of the wines showed excellent fruit concentration but acidity was a bit overwhelming. At this stage, the wines seemed a bit angry and bitter, i.e. coiled, acidic and a bit rough. I believe the 96s will eventually blossom in another decade or two when more tertiary notes emerge to compensate the structure.

The 96 Lefaive Batard was incredible. The 96 L Ltour CC was a pleasant surprise. However, there is a significant bottle variation per Bryan.

• 1996 Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

  Beautiful light yellow color. Expressive nose displaying yellow fruit, apple, white peach, lemon curd, light caramel, spearmint and wetstone. With air, it gains weight also gets lighter. Fully integrated harmonious palate, nicely layered sweet yellow fruit, good energy and precision, bright acidity, strong limestone mineral and a long lemon curd riven finish with spearmint at the end. This is a pleasant surprise. However, Bryan points out the high rate of premox so caveat emptor.

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• 1996 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet 98 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

  The fill is a bit low which is worrisome. Beautiful pale color and the nose reflects it. Absolutely gorgeous perfectly mature white Burgundy nose displaying perfectly ripe yellow fruit, pineapple, lemon curd, a hint of pear, flint, smoke, sesame, oyster shell and wet stone. Beautifully integrated palate, very finely layered subtle yellow fruit, perfect precision, exceptional freshness, incredibly energy, bright acidity, strong wet stone mineral and a long yellow citrus driven finish with flint and sesame at the end. Despite the low fill, this bottle remains incredibly youthful. I typically prefer the Chevalier but not today.

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• 1996 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet 95 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru

  Slightly deeper color than the Batard. Medium expressive nose displaying ripe yellow fruit, pineapple, lemon curd, butterscotch, honey, caramel, spicy spices and mineral. Excellent concentration, packed opulent yellow fruit, dense and rich, bright acidity, medium mineral and a long rich yellow fruit driven finish with butterscotch and limestone at the end. Bryan mentions that if tastes blind, he would have guessed DRC Montrachet. I agree as being slightly more advanced than usual gives additional richness. The last bottle tried two years ago was much fresher. Nevertheless, very enjoyable.

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This was really extracted.

• 1996 Domaine Robert Groffier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

  Expressive nose displaying very ripe opulent red fruit, plum, raspberry jam, cherry, a hint of sous bois, dark spices, licorice, noticeable oak and earth. Excellent concentration, packed jammy red fruit, deeply toned and rich, bright acidity, good earthy mineral and a long ripe red fruit driven earthy finish. Reflecting the house style, this is heavily extracted. This is very ripe and concentrated for Amoureuses.

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The Claude Dugat was the unanimous favorite. Both the Roty and the Dugat Py were musty.

• 1996 Domaine Denis Bachelet Charmes-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

  Wine 1, Very youthful medium expressive nose displaying concentrated black and red fruit, cherry, stewed tomato, blackberry, coffee bean, mint, iron, sweet spices and earth. Excellent concentration, nicely layered roasted black fruit, good energy and precision, bright acidity, good mineral presence and a long concentrated black fruit driven finish. This remains incredibly youthful and primary. Not showing much tertiary notes and seems a bit subdued.

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• 1996 Domaine Joseph Roty Charmes-Chambertin Très Vieilles Vignes Flawed

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

  Wine 2, Initially, really musty, a hint of TCA. Clearly corked with air. Really ripe concentrated black fruit expression.

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• 1996 Bernard Dugat-Py Charmes-Chambertin Flawed

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

  Wine 3, Also musty, slightly corked. Very youthful nose, black fruit, masculine, bright acidity and still noticeable tannins.

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• 1996 Claude Dugat Charmes-Chambertin 96 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

  Wine 4, From the beginning, best nose of the flight. Perfectly mature youthful nose displaying opulent red fruit, raspberry, cherry compote, sous bois, grilled cep, caramel, cappuccino, sweet spices and earth. Beautifully integrated palate, layers upon layers of rich red fruit, silky, polished and fluid, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a long sweet red fruit driven finish with sous bois at the end. Most guesses as Bachelet. This is drinking beautifully, a classic beautifully mature Burgundy. FWIW, Bob loved Claude Dugat when he was still reviewing Burgundy, Pierre as well. At one point, the 96 Griotte sold for more than the 96 La Tache.

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The Vogue showed too much oak. The Mugnier didn't impressive me.

• 1996 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru

  Expressive nose displaying opulent red fruit, raspberry liqueur, strawberry jam, licorice, coconut, toasted oak, caramel, sweet spices and earth. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of ripe red fruit, dense yet silky and fluid, bright acidity and mineral, and a medium to long ripe concentrated red fruit driven finish with coconut and toasted oak at the end. Still showing pronounced oak. Another decade of cellaring will require to lessen oak and gain complexity.

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• 1996 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Musigny 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru

  En magnum. The darkest wine of the night. The first note is ash and smoke. Medium expressive nose displaying pure black fruit, blackberry, black cherry, rose, a hint of asparagus, stem, ash, smoke and crushed rocks. Excellent concentration, very finely layered black fruit, silky and fluid, bright acidity and mineral, and a long pure black fruit driven finish with ash and asparagus at the end. This remains very youthful especially en magnum. I wish the nose is a bit more expressive.

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• 1996 Joseph Drouhin Musigny 95 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru

  Expressive nose displaying pure red and black fruit, raspberry, black berry, black cherry, rose, dark spices and limestone. Excellent concentration, very finely layered pure red and black fruit, silky and polished, bright acidity and mineral, and a long pure black fruit driven finish. The most classic Musing y of the night. It remains very youthful and can improve for another decade or more.

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As usual, a great time was had by all!