Visiting Rome and Tuscany
Lazio and Tuscany, Italy
Tasted Tuesday, June 18, 2019 - Tuesday, July 2, 2019 by La Cave d'Argent with 1,421 views
Introduction
With our son and daughter being adults in different cities and having their own busy schedules, opportunities for the four of us to spend time together had previously been limited to short stints at holidays, graduations, weddings and other family events. That's why we seized the opportunity for a family vacation to Italy when the stars aligned and our kids' schedules coincidentally allowed for a simultaneous two-week break. What resulted was a trip that was memorable in every sense. The journey led us to places previously unseen, food preparation previously unexperienced, wine previously untasted and best of all, a family bond that became even stronger.
Flight 1 - Tuesday, June 18 and Wednesday, June 19 (1 Note)
This was the time frame during which our son and daughter flew to our home in Las Vegas, where we would all be flying out together for the trip. We knew that we would be drinking many different Italian wines during the upcoming trip, so we decided to open a Brunello from our cellar in order for them to get a hint of what was coming. Needless to say, it was well-received while viewing the Las Vegas Strip from our living room.
Flight 2 - Thursday, June 20 and Friday, June 21 (5 Notes)
Our flight left Las Vegas McCarran International Airport very early on the 20th. After connecting in Chicago, we had a long but comfortable flight to Rome aboard a brand new American Airlines Boeing 787 Dreamliner. Although we were jet lagged when we arrived in the early morning (Rome time), we were excited and energized from the moment we visualized Italian land from our plane.
Arrangements had been made for a driver to greet us and take us to our hotel in downtown Rome. He was a skilled driver with a new, spacious luxury vehicle. That said, not being used to the narrow roads, numerous pedestrians, motor scooters and general fast driving habits of the Italians, it was a bit harrowing.
Our hotel, the Bernini Bristol, is an elegant, five-star property with beautiful rooms, excellent amenities and outstanding service. We had two adjoining rooms that were handsomely appointed and very comfortable.
After unpacking, we were hungry and ready for lunch. Next door to the Bernini is a delightful restaurant called Bottega Italia Monteforte, where we dined alfresco. Immediately upon being seated, we ordered Aperol Spritz's that had never tasted so good. Two of the dishes (among several) that we ordered were salmon tartare and Spaghetti Carbonara. All dishes were excellent, as was the accompanying focaccia. A bottle of Mellini Chianti San Lorenzo was ordered from the wine list and was a great match with the food.
We were all running on adrenaline, anxious to stroll around Rome after lunch. Among some of the beautiful architectural sites was the Trevi Fountain, truly a site to behold!
Logging at least 2-3 miles on foot, we returned to our hotel. During the afternoon we sipped on two Banfi wines that were included with our rooms, Le Rime and Col di Sasso.
After resting during the afternoon, we dined alfresco at at Hotel Bernini Bristol's elegant rooftop restaurant, The Flair. With stunning views and a fantastic menu created by Executive Chef Alessandro Caputo, it is definitely destination dining for anyone visiting Rome. Some of our dishes are pictured below. The two wines ordered from the list (Argiolas Vermentino and Garofoli Conero) paired nicely.
Exhausted but happy following dinner, we retired to our rooms and had a good night's sleep, knowing that we had a busy day forthcoming.
Flight 3 - Saturday, June 22 (4 Notes)
The next morning we were up and at 'em, anxious to embark on our planned tour of the Vatican. After breakfast at the Bernini, we were greeted by our driver and by our tour guide. Our guide was a British man in his mid thirties who had an extensive educational background in art history and had lived in Italy for many years. We were driven through the Vatican security checkpoints and, by virtue of our guide, were able to bypass the lines and gain access to the Vatican museum. Our guide, albeit a bit sterile in his presentation, was a veritable encyclopedia of Vatican knowledge. The works of art were spectacular, many being thousands of years old. The most impressive thing to me, as related by our guide, is that the Vatican museum contains only ten percent of the Vatican's treasured works of art, the rest residing in Vatican offices, meeting rooms, living quarters, etc. 
After leaving the museum, we viewed the Sistine Chapel. Unfortunately photographs are not allowed in the chapel. Michelangelo's work is breathtaking, as is the architectural achievement of the chapel itself.
Saint Peter's Basilica was our next stop at the Vatican. Like the Sistine Chapel, this was a sight to behold. Fortunately photos are allowed in the basilica.
Saint Peter (the first Pope) and numerous other Popes are entombed in the Basilica. One of the eeriest sights in St Peter’s Basilica is the Papal corpse of the beloved popularist Pope John XXIII, preserved in wax in an apse at the back right of the Basilica. 
Touring the Vatican was an amazing experience. While walking to our driver's vehicle, one last photo was taken with an impressive backdrop.
After returning to our hotel, we decided to walk to a restaurant that had been highly recommended by multiple wine-and-food-oriented friends, Achilli al Parlamento. Located in central Rome, customers enter through a storefront bottle shop and are escorted to a small but elegantly appointed restaurant in the rear of the building. It is here that Chef Massimo Viglietti has created a dining establishment that, in my opinion, deserves higher than its one Michelin star. Dishes included king crab with baby spinach, marrow and pear (topped with gold leaf), tagliolini di farro, sliced filet mignon with fava beans and pesto, etc. We enjoyed our meal with the Ciacci Piccolomini Rosso di Montalcino and Castello di Ama Chianti, but bought two additional wines from the wine shop that were later enjoyed on our trip. For oenophiles, I should note that the stemware is superb, the wine service knowledgeable (and unpretentious) and the wine prices very reasonable (with those consumed in the restaurant being the same price as those purchased from the wine shop). Overall, Achilli al Parlamento was an "11" on a scale of 10. Those visiting Rome should not bypass this gem. 
After lunch, we again walked the streets of Rome, seeing the sights and browsing the shops. We returned to our hotel and relaxed until it was time for dinner at Antica Pesa. This restaurant had likewise been highly recommended, and we were not disappointed. Dining alfresco in the restaurant's beautiful courtyard, we quickly became aware that this is an establishment frequented by celebrities and dignitaries. The restaurant's wine list is extensive, presented in an Old World book that is about four inches thick. From the list we ordered the Michele Satta Piastraia, while the Punica Barrua had been purchased earlier in the day at Enoteca Achilli al Parlamento. Both wines were excellent and paired nicely the multiple delicious dishes prepared by Chef Simone Panella.
Flight 4 - Sunday, June 23 (2 Notes)
This was the day that had been planned for touring the historic sites of Rome. We had a different guide for this journey, Antonio Pica, an English-speaking Italian man with extensive knowledge of just about everything Roman. He was extremely affable, informative, funny and (thank God) a safe driver.
Our day's journey began with a lesson about the Roman aqueducts, which date back as early as 300 BC.
We were then taken to Le Catacombe di San Callisto (Catacombs of St. Callixtus), where several Popes were previously buried from the 2nd through 4th centuries. It was fascinating (albeit a bit creepy) to go deep underground and view the grave niches and other relics. Photography was not allowed inside the catacombs.
Next on the list was the Basilica of Saint Clement. This is a three-tiered complex of structures. The present (street level) basilica was built just before the year 1100. Beneath the present basilica is a 4th-century basilica, below which is the basement that in the 2nd century briefly served as a mithraeum. Ancient artwork and the "goodies" underneath the present basilica were accidentally discovered in the 1860s, when the floor was being repaired for structural problems. Going deep into the structure, visitors can view amazing works of art on the walls that had previously been buried.
From the Basilica of Saint Clement, we walked to the Colosseum, stopping along the way at a tiny restaurant, where we sat along the sidewalk, taking a break for Aperol spritz's and salumi.
The Colosseum itself is breathtaking. There are so many interesting aspects to this structure. Completed in 80 AD, it is mind boggling that it took only ten years to construct, and even more mind boggling that it still stands today.
Last toured was the Palatine. After all of the walking that we had done, hiking up the Palatine Hill took some effort...but it was well worth it!
After the wonderful day of sightseeing, we returned to our hotel, where we relaxed and refreshed before taking a taxi to Ristorante Grano. Located in the center of Rome, we elected to again dine alfresco. Chef Danilo Frisone had crafted a creative menu. Among the dishes ordered were marinated anchovies with burrata cheese; tuna tartare aromatized with lemon and basil; grilled octopus with a delicate potato cream, confit tomatoes and Gaeta olives; risotto with buffalo blue cheese, porcini mushrooms and hazelnuts. All of the dishes were delicious. A white (Falanghina) and red (Cesanese del Piglio) were ordered from Grano's wine list, pairing well with the food.
Flight 5 - Monday, June 24 (3 Notes)
Throughout our stay at the Bernini, we enjoyed morning breakfasts at the rooftop buffet, which included delicious cooked meats, eggs, salumi, fruit, yogurt, muffins, etc.
This was a less structured day, although it did include a morning walk to the Spanish Steps and Trinità dei Monti church.
Thereafter things moved at a much slower pace. A light lunch with bruschetta in our room was enjoyed with a bottle of aged Venica & Venica Collio Merlot Insieme that we had purchased two days earlier at Enoteca Achilli al Parlamento.
The afternoon was extremely relaxing, enjoying massages in the Bernini's nicely appointed spa. Thereafter, we regained our appetites and walked to a quaint nearby fish restaurant, Pesceria Barberini. With ultra-fresh fish literally on display, Pesceria Barberini serves unpretentious but mouthwatering seafood dishes. We ordered several and they were all off-the-charts good, well-matched with the Tiefenbrunner and Zaccagnini white wines ordered from their list.
Flight 6 - Tuesday, June 25 (1 Note)
This was the day for us to move on from Rome to Castelnuovo Berardenga, located within the Siena province of Italy's Tuscany region. We had an excellent driver with a spacious Mercedes van, who drove us from the Bernini to Castel Monastero. The scenery along the way was beautiful, with rolling green hills and scattered hilltop villages.
Castel Monastero is a breathtakingly beautiful, restored medieval village and monastery. Our rooms were large and elegantly appointed, as were all of the castle's amenities. So historical, it is a destination in and of itself.
After unpacking and strolling the grounds of the hotel, we had a driver take us to the town of Siena, about 14 miles to the west. Our trip coincided with Siena's preparation for the Palio di Siena, The Palio di Siena is a horse race that is held twice each year, on the 2nd of July and the 16th of August. Ten horses and riders, bareback and dressed in the corresponding colors, represent 10 of the 17 contrade (city wards). This is a huge event in Siena, and the excitement of anticipation was palpable. The town itself is absolutely charming. First settled as far back as the Etruscans (900-400 BC), it is loaded with history. The streets are narrow and the buildings are ancient.
The photo below shows the compacted dirt that has been applied to the periphery of the Siena town square. This is the course where the Palio horses will race.
Here are the 17 contrade:
Virtually every spot in this town presents a photo op!
We had been told about the nearly 3000-year-old wine cellar at La Taverna di San Giuseppe. Although we did not dine there, the owner graciously allowed us to view the cellar.
We had made reservations well in advance at La Finestra, based upon the recommendation of several friends who had previously visited Siena. As had been our preference on most evenings, we dined alfresco. The dishes were delectable, a couple of which are pictured below. Ordered from the wine list, the Col dOrcia Brunello was a great match.
By the time our dinner had concluded, the sun had set. This presented some beautiful nighttime views of the town.
Flight 7 - Wednesday, June 26 (8 Notes)
Guests of Castel Monastero get to enjoy a tasty breakfast each morning, with the hotel providing a nice buffet. After filling up, we embarked on a planned excursion to Montalcino and Montepulciano. Our driver/guide was a knowledgeable young woman from Siena who spoke perfect English. The approximately 30 mile ride south to the Montalcino DOCG was not only scenic but informative. On the way we stopped at the Val d’Orcia to spend about 45 minutes in Pienza, a city built in the 15th century and named after Pope Pius II. Partially destroyed June 15, 1944 during World War II, the damaged areas were restored by October 1955, which is commemorated with a plaque above the town's entry arch.
The town itself was delightful. Narrow streets, gorgeous architecture, amazing views, a beautiful church...and even a cool little wine shop!
Our next stop was one that was memorable in every sense. We were personal guests at Castello Tricerchi. The nearly 1000-acre estate extends over the north side of Montalcino, but only 32 are planted, all being to Sangiovese Grosso (the grape of Brunello).
Built in the 13th century by the Altesi family and completed in 1441 by the Tricerchi family, it was an important rampart for the pilgrims, who traveled to Rome along the Via Francigena. The castle was occupied by the Spanish in the 16th century, who built it as their stronghold. Returning to the Tricerchi family, it again served as shelter to those who went on pilgrimage to the Holy Sea. In 1820 the last of the Tricerchi kin, Porzia, was married to Baron Finetti. Having no direct descendants, the castle passed to the nephews Falzacappa and from Maddalena (Nena) to the firstborn Giulio (Iulio) Squarcia. You will notice Iulio's name on one of the bottlings.
We were so surprised and pleased to see that the family home was set up for a private lunch...just for us. And a wonderful lunch it was!
From Castello Tricerchi, our driver took us to Montepulciano, about 20-25 miles due east. There we were pampered guests of what is perhaps the most beautiful old winery I have ever seen, De'Ricci Cantine Storiche. Built in the mid sixteenth century but also incorporating a structure dating back to 1337, it oozes with history (imposing brick and stone arches, deep cellar barrel rooms, ancient water well, etc.). While most of De'Ricci's wines are now made at a nearby modern winery in Fontecornino, the old winery still serves a vital role with respect to barrel aging and hospitality.
After a wonderful day of touring and tasting, we returned to Castel Monastero. A dip in one of the castle's beautiful pools was quite relaxing!
During the evening, we dined at Castel Monastero's gourmet restaurant, Contrada. Part of Gorden Ramsay's empire, the cuisine is refined and well-executed under the tutelage of Executive Chef Enrico Marmo. We ordered the La Braccesca Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva (single vineyard) Santa Pia, which was a great accompaniment to the food. The dishes were fantastic and the atmosphere (alfresco in the small square of this Tuscan hamlet) was priceless. What a wonderful way to end a wonderful day!
Flight 8 - Thursday, June 27 (4 Notes)
This day was total R&R. Beginning with the typical scrumptious Castel Monastero breakfast and followed by a nice relaxing stint at the pool, we had lunch at Cantina, Castel Monastero's less formal restaurant. Located in the medieval wine cellar of the castle, it is architecturally beautiful (high-vaulted ceilings, arches, stone walls, etc.). The cuisine is traditional Tuscan fare and quite delicious! We ordered the Fèlsina Pepestrino and Bonelli Chianti Colli Senesi to pair with the dishes, both of which served admirably.
After lunch, we returned to the pool, where we lounged around, had an Aperol spritz or two and intermittently cooled off in the water. The evening was spent together in one of our rooms, where we ordered freely from the castle's extensive room service menu. The various dishes were well-matched with the Bonelli Chianti Villa Chigi and Abbadia Ardenga Brunello.
Flight 9 - Friday, June 28 (7 Notes)
The morning of this day was reserved for spa treatments and pool lounging, while the afternoon was reserved for a private tour and tasting at Fattoria di Fèlsina. Located near Castel Monastero in Castelnuovo Berardenga, Fèlsina is a beautiful historic estate that was purchased by Domenico Poggiali in 1966, at a time when Italian viticulture was struggling. He invested heavily in the vineyards, winery and cellars, while at the same time developing a terroir-based olive oil operation that produces four different varieties of oil from differently situated orchards. Fèlsina remains in the Poggiali family, now with Domenico's grandson, Giovanni Poggiali, at the helm. Today, the estate covers approximately 1500 acres, of which 235 acres are planted to grapevines.
We were warmly greeted by Fèlsina's employee, Michele (a native who speaks quite good English), who immediately escorted us to his truck and took us to their prestigious Rancia vineyard. At the top of the vineyard is a farmhouse that is nearly a thousand years old. Without electricity or plumbing, it is used for drying harvested grapes on mats and racks, ultimately to be used in Fèlsina's Vin Santo.
In 1966, Domenico Poggiali found a cellar set into the tufa hills of his estate. It was small, built of stone with a wide brick vault. Construction of an underground wine cellar connecting with the old stables, once home to fine horses, was completed in the early 1970s and is still used for aging. This underground connection links cellars that are hundreds of years old.
Fèlsina makes small quantities of high-quality sparkling wine, produced in the traditional method. In fact, a portion of this sparkling wine is still hand-riddled!
As was the case for our tour of the vineyards and cellar, the tasting portion of our visit was private and personalized. We were seated at a table in a private room, provided with bread, salumi and a variety of olive oils, and served by Michele, who was very knowledgeable about all of Fèlsina's products. The first five wines listed below were tasted at the winery, while the Fontalloro and Maestro Raro were purchased from Fèlsina and consumed with a superb Castel Monastero room service spread the same evening. Two additional wines were purchased from Fèlsina, the 2016 Berardenga Chianti Classico Riserva and the 2013 Colonia, both of which were consumed later during our trip.
Flight 10 - Saturday, June 29 (3 Notes)
This was the day to move on to Florence. After bidding adieu to the wonderful staff at Castel Monastero, we embarked on a scenic road trip north. Florence is approximately 60 miles northwest of Castelnuovo Berardenga. Our driver was excellent and we were at our new destination, Hotel Brunelleschi, within 90 minutes. The Brunelleschi is a luxurious boutique hotel in the center of Florence, located where once stood the church of San Michele (known as "in Palchetto”). Our two suites were spacious, beautifully decorated and adorned with fruit baskets, fresh flowers, sparkling water and wine. Each suite had picturesque views of the city.
After unpacking, we made the short walk to Cantinetta Antinori, where we had a longstanding reservation for lunch. Located on the ground floor of Palazzo Antinori, it one of the finest examples of Florentine architecture from the mid 1400’s. Since that time (for over 500 years), Palazzo Antinori has always been the family’s private residence and headquarters for their entrepreneurial ventures. In 1957 the Antinori family established their restaurant, Cantinetta Antinori, at the Palazzo, where it has been a bucket-list dining destination.
We ordered numerous dishes, including:
Panzanella
Chickpea flour flatbread with shrimp and calamari
Toasted bread with butter and anchovies
Pappardelle pasta with Tuscan meat ragout
Thick Tuscan tomato and bread soup
Sliced Tuscan steak with rosemary
And...veal fillet with Porcini mushrooms
Cantinetta Antinori has an extensive wine list with great depth and breath of the entire Antinori lineup. We chose the 2018 Monteloro Pinot Blanc and the 2016 Tignanello, with the latter destined to become a legend. The wine service was professional in every respect and the stemware (including decanter) exquisite.
After lunch, we walked the streets of Florence, ultimately meeting our guide for a private tour of the Ufizzi Gallery.
When the ruling house of Medici died out, their art collections were gifted to the city of Florence by Anna Maria Luisa, the last Medici heiress. The gallery had been open to visitors by request since the sixteenth century. In 1765 it was officially opened to the public, formally becoming a museum in 1865. The works of art are breathtaking and include pieces by Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, Rembrandt, Raphael and Boticelli.
When our tour of the Ufizzi had ended, we strolled to the nearby Ponte Vecchio, a medieval stone closed-spandrel segmental arch bridge over the Arno River, noted for still having shops built along it, as was once common. While butchers initially occupied the shops, the present tenants are jewelers, art dealers and souvenir sellers.
Thereafter, we toured the Florence Cathedral (Duomo di Firenze), the mother church of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Florence. Completed in 1436, it took 140 years to build!
Tired and hungry, we bought made-to-order paninis from a popular take-out in the town square, taking them back to our room to be enjoyed with the Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico Riserva that had been purchased at the winery the day prior.
Flight 11 - Sunday, June 30 (5 Notes)
This day was spent strolling the streets of Florence, shopping and watching street performers.
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By midday, we had worked up a pretty good appetite and were ready to relax. Lunch alfresco at Osteria Santo Spirito included:
Greek salad
Ravioli with clams
Spaghetti with fresh tomatoes and basil
Lasagna
Last, but not least, gnocchi with soft cheese gratinée and truffle oil
From the Santo Spirito's wine list we ordered the Santa Cristina (Antinori) Orvieto Classico Campogrande, which was refreshing on the warm Italian summer day.
During the remainder of the afternoon we lounged at the hotel and shared two half-bottles, a Casalvento white and Casalvento Chianti (from the minibar).
Only my wife knew where we would be dining during the evening, keeping the long-in-advance reservation a secret from the rest of the family. We dressed and got in a taxi to parts unknown. A long and winding road up into the hills above Florence led us to Belmond Villa San Michele, where we had dinner at their flagship restaurant, La Loggia. Dining alfresco on a gorgeous Florentine evening, overlooking the Tuscan hills as the sun set, was something that will never be forgotten. 
La Loggia is renowned for its refined Italian cuisine, which we were able to immerse ourselves in by ordering the six-course "Tasting Sensations" selection.
I cannot recall the makeup of the amuse-bouche, but do recall it being visually beautiful and equally flavorful.
The courses that followed were all works of art, perfect in execution and absolutely delicious:
Amberjack ceviche, panzanella salad, Jerez vinegar and tomato water
Roasted sea scallops, guanciale from Siena, cannellini beans, black cabbage crumble
Durham wheat bischeri pasta, cacciucco fish broth and sautéed seafood
Homemade fagottini, Chianina beef, ricotta cheese from Pistoia and shaved truffle
Roasted pigeon from Valdarno, broad beans, cherry compote, hibiscus flowers
Vanilla gelato bite, followed by poppy seeds "pan dolce," beer and raspberry sorbet, crunchy almonds
During the course of our fantastic dinner, we enjoyed the 2015 Brancaia Il Blu Toscana IGT and 2011 Luce della Vite Lucente, both pairing well with the food.
Flight 12 - Monday, July 1 (3 Notes)
This was sadly the day that we would be leaving Florence, taking an afternoon train to Rome, where we had reservations at the Rome Airport Hilton. This had been arranged in order to have us in close proximity to the airport when catching our early morning flight the next day.
As was the case for every morning at Hotel Brunelleschi, we began our day with their beautiful breakfast buffet, choosing from a wide selection of delicious options.
Before catching our train to Rome, we had lunch at La Grotta Toscana in downtown Florence. 
We ordered multiple dishes at this comfortable restaurant, all of which were uniformly excellent:
Caprese salad
Zucchini flan
French onion soup gratinée
Spaghetti all'Amatriciana
Lasagna
Four cheeses pizza
From La Gratta Toscana's wine list we ordered two reds, the 2015 Fattoria del Cerro Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and the 2017 Castello Banfi Chianti Classico, both of which were nicely complementary to the food.
All packed and ready to go following lunch, our driver took us to the Florence railway station, where we caught a high speed train to Rome. A taxi ride from the Rome train station to the Airport Hilton put us in an ideal position to easily catch our early morning flight the next day.
By the time we arrived at the hotel, we were ready for dinner. The meal at the Hilton's restaurant, Le Colonne, was surprisingly good, as was the service. 
We had specifically saved the bottle of Fèlsina Colonia (that we had purchased at the winery a few days earlier) for our final night in Italy, and it turned out to be a perfect wine with which to conclude a perfect vacation.
Flight 13 - Tuesday, July 2
Catching an early morning flight to the U.S., we had a comfortable trip aboard an American Airlines Boeing 777, ultimately arriving in Las Vegas in the early evening. We were a bit tired but extremely content with a fantastic trip that had no major glitches.
Closing
Our family's trip to Italy will forever be remembered as a special time together. Rome and Tuscany were impressively scenic, and the Italian people could not have been more hospitable. We hope that at some point the stars will again align and all four of us will be able to enjoy another adventure.
2013 Podere San Lorenzo Brunello di Montalcino Bramante 90 Points
Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
(6/18/2019)
This young Brunello sports a deep garnet robe and a somewhat understated but broad nose of Bing cherries, black raspberries, orange zest, licorice, earth and menthol-infused tobacco. Medium-to-full-bodied, fresh and without alcoholic heat, it delivers flavors mirroring the nose, wrapping them with substantial mouth-puckering tannins. The middle palate is nicely dense, the alcohol seamless (14.5%) and the oak complementary. While the finish is quite lengthy, its enjoyment is marred by the astringent tannins. This is a quality Brunello that will likely merit a higher score when the tannins have better integrated. Drink 2023-2033.
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