Bordeaux and Tokaji Wine Dinner - Spec's

We attended this dinner last night held by Spec's fine wine buyer Bear Dalton. Joining the crowd were winemakers Jean Renee Matignon from Chateau Pibran (Pauillac) and Chateau Pichon Baron (Pauillac) and Lazlo Meszros, Director of Disznókó Tokaji. The wines of Cantenac Brown were also represented. The connection between these properties is that they are all owned by AXA, a French insurance conglomerate.

The reception started with a glass of 2003 "S" de Ch. Suduiraut, the dry white wine from the Sauternes producer. Served with hors d’oeuvres including Ahi tuna tartar on a taro chip, Hoi sin beef spring roll,and farm goat cheese cherry tomato.

• 2000 Château Pibran 86 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Mediocre. Perhaps a decant would have helped but I don't see this developing additional complexity. Low acids and soft tannins.

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• 2000 Château Canuet 87 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

  This is the second wine of Cantenac Brown. Drinking well now but probably won't age well. Low acids and soft tannins and on the simple side.

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• 2001 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron Les Tourelles de Longueville 88 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  This wine seemed closed and a decant would have helped. The nose was rather oaky but there was decent structure. I couldn't get a reading on this wine but if the price is right it would be worth a purchase.

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The second course was a poached foie gras mignonette with sweet and sour red onion and brioche toast.

• 1999 Disznókő Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 92 Points

  Hungary, Tokaji

  I don't have a lot of experience with Tokaji but I really liked this wine. It had notes of honey, dried apricots along with a nice viscous texture. Although it was 5 Puttonyos (high on the sweetness/intensity scale) it had enough acidity to finish very fresh. With foie gras it was quite good.

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The third course was a roasted duck breast with pizette, black bean mousseline and cardamom gastrique.

• 1999 Château Pibran 86 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Medium ruby in color. Nice structure but little complexity and weak on the finish.

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• 1999 Château Cantenac Brown 90 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

  Dark ruby color with cassis on the nose. It suggested elegance in the Margaux style and was drinking very well. A buy if the price is right as this one does not need long-term aging.

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• 1999 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron 90 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  This was still very primary and tasted almost exactly like the taste I had upon release a few years ago. There was not much aging in the interim. This had a very intense nose with tobacco and a bit of funk that blew off soon after the pour. There is clearly lots of Merlot in the blend due to the sweetness that showed up after a bit of air time. Quite good and might end up with an even higher score. I'm going to give this one another 4-5 years and maybe open them in 2009.

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The fourth course was double lamb chop with galette Maxime, spinach, mint and creme fraiche.

• 2001 Château Pibran 84 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Merlot; Not a lot to say about this one other than it was just OK.

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• 2001 Château Cantenac Brown 89 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

  Very primary with lots of blackberry fruit on the nose and throughout. Has potential but very tough tannins at this point.

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• 2001 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron 92 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Complex, balanced with currants and cedar and great length on the finish. My notes were close to Tanzer's, probably because the wine is so very young and it was tasted fairly recently. If I owned this wine I wouldn't open another one for at least five years. The winemaker, Jean Renee Matignon, indicated that he thought this one is going to last quite some time.

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Included Crottin de chavignol, Roquefort, and Saint Andre.

• 1990 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron 94 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Very dense ruby with a bit of sediment (mine was one of the last pours). This bottle came out a private cellar direct from the Chateau and was extremely well-stored. Perhaps that is why this wine still seemed so young. It did have the classic Pauillac cedar and smoke on those nose with cassis a touch of anise on the palate. Stylistically it was kind of a brute and did not impress with elegance. Still a fine treat. Drinking well now but could last indefinitely.

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Assorted petite desserts.

• 2000 Disznókő Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 91 Points

  Hungary, Tokaji

  This was a step-up in texture from the 99 5 Puttonyos but it did not have the underlying acidity that really made the 99 memorable. It was extremely rich and had honey on the nose with white peaches, pineapple and apricot throughout. Underneath there was citrus. Slightly flabby.

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This was one long wine dinner. There were some service issues that caused delays but the company, food and wines were very good.