Seattle Does Pre-'90 Chateauneuf

Kaspar's, Seattle, WA
Tasted Saturday, April 30, 2005 by DFC with 1,086 views

Introduction

Living in the Seattle area is an amazingly fortunute circumstance for wine-lovers for at least a couple of reasons: (1) so many enthusiastic offline participants, and (2) even more important, wonderfully gracious and knowledgeable offline hosts! Roy Hersh, Eric LeVine, and Jason Goldberger each captained a table for an absolutely out-of-this-world tasting of mature CdP. The tasting also proved to be a great opportunity to make many new wine-loving friends in town...what a night!

Flight 1 - First Flight of Whites (3 Notes)

  • 1975 René Collard Champagne Brut Cuvée Réservée 90 Points

    France, Champagne

    Medium goldon color and quite spritzy in the mouth. It took some time to arrive, but eventually, there was lots of raisin/prune on the nose. On the palate, toasted honey and citrus. This one is not quite my preferred style of champage--very masculine in bearing.

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  • 2003 Verget Corton-Charlemagne Caniculus Vieilles Vignes 89 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

    The nose on this one was quite subdued. Very dry on the palate and some woodiness. Reminded me of a CA chard in style...too soft and flabby.

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  • 2002 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Corton-Charlemagne 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

    Nice mineral nose. Very soft in the mouth, and yet, fantastic balance and laser-like acidity. What an odd but enormously pleasing combination. Grapefruits on the palate. I would love to have this one again!

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Flight 2 - Second Flight of Whites (2 Notes)

  • 2003 Syncline Roussanne Alder Ridge Vineyard 87 Points

    USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Horse Heaven Hills

    The nose was very closed and hard to ID. On the palate, perfumy and floral. This wine was light up front, good in the mid-palate, and merely OK on the finish. A bit drying in the mouth...somewhat astringent. Not a poorly made wine, but definitely not my style.

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  • 2002 Newton Chardonnay Unfiltered 91 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    Wood and smoke on the nose. On the palate, very refreshing, fruity, and buttery (but not overly so). Decent acidity, and only mildly woody.

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Flight 3 - Sauternes Flight (3 Notes)

  • 1983 Château de Fargues 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

    Dark golden color. Apricot and beeswax on the nose. Still nicely acidic with a good balance. On the palate, botyris and honey with a 25-second finish.

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  • 1988 Château Climens 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac

    Light citrus nose. Green apple and mineral on the palate. Mid-palate is a bit lacking, but it has a 20-second finish.

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  • 2001 Château La Tour Blanche Sauternes 96 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

    Fresh and lively on the nose with aromas of pineapple and menthol. Simply explodes in the mouth! Beautifully balanced acidity accompanies waves of apples, pears, and honey, followed by a 30+-second finish! Wow! This one appears to have the stuffing to last, but who wants to wait!!

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Flight 4 - First Flight of CdP (3 Notes)

  • 1990 Domaine du Pégau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée 93 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    Sweet barnyard aromas. Bay leaves and beef blood on the palate. Still tannic with lots of life left, but will the fruit ultimately make it to the finish line? Nevertheless, very enjoyable right now. Great wine really, but suffered by being compared to its flight-mates.

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  • 1990 Henri Bonneau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Marie Beurrier 94 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    Medium-intensity barnyard aromas. Fuller mouthfeel than the '90 Pegau. Plums and garrigue on the palate. Tannins still present right now, making this wine a bit austere and drying on the palate...lots of life left.

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  • 1990 Domaine du Pégau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Laurence 96 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    Funky barnyard aromas. Very mouth-filling and luscious. Sweet, sweet tannins with lots of fruit. Amazingly balanced. Dark cherries, earth, tobacco, and garrigue on the palate. My WOTF and one I hated to say goodbye to!

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Flight 5 - Second Flight of CdP (3 Notes)

  • 1989 Les Cailloux (Lucien et André Brunel) Châteauneuf-du-Pape 97 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    The Perfect Nose...Barnyard meets the ballet! I could simply smell this wine for a full evening and not get tired of it. Actually drinking it was just an added bonus. Such unbelievable balance, and liquid silk in the mouth. Dusky plums, black cherries, and chocolate on the palate. Long, long finish. Where can I get more...I need more, more, more, more!!! My WOTN...obviously.

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  • 1989 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve 94 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    White chocolate and raisins on the nose. On the palate, black cherry and tobacco. This one definitely needs time...still young and plenty of tannins present. Very enjoyable and would love to try this one again in 5 years.

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  • 1989 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 92 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    Bleu cheese, barnyard, and light chemical nose. Black cherries on the palate. This one unfortunately suffered in its performance because of the flight it was in ('89 Cailloux and '89 Rayas).

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Flight 6 - Third Flight of CdP (3 Notes)

  • 1988 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve 94 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    Barnyard and garrigue on the nose. Sweet black cherries on the palate. Beautifully balanced with silky soft tannins...drinking wonderfully right now.

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  • 1985 Château Rayas Côtes du Rhône Château de Fonsalette Reserve 96 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône

    Amazingly powerful beef blood and salami nose...wow!! Silky velvet mouthfeel and lovely dark fruits. Still tannic, but has plenty of fruit to age. Great QPR and ringer for this tasting! My WOTF.

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  • 1989 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 92 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    Light barnyard aromas. Enjoyable red fruits, but a little light on the palate. Tannins are still gripping and could use more time to soften. I see that I scored both bottles of '89 Beaucastel the same this evening in our blind tasting. Probably would like this even more if it wasn't up against such tough competition tonight.

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Flight 7 - Dessert Flight (1 Note)

  • 1975 Château Romer du Hayot 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

    Lovely example of an aged Sauternes. Medium amber color...very pretty. Slightly acetone nose. Raisins on the palate. There is a slight bit of heat on the finish...almost Brandy-like...quite interesting.

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Closing

As someone just learning the ropes on CdP, this was an especially fantastic wine experience. The quality and depth of this tasting was truly memorable and absolutely confirms my suspicion that the Southern Rhone is a worthy region for further exploration. I look forward to many, many future discoveries!

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