Vinous London dinner, January 2020

The second London dinner organised by and for Vinous members, this time on the theme of 'Cult' white Burgundy and Barolo/Barbaresco. Everyone pushed the boat out and it turned into quite the session, especially taking account of it being a Monday evening.

Not every wine showed well, and there were no revelatory wines either, but the standard was generally high, the pairings with the food were delicious, the company was splendid - an evening greater than the sum of its (many) parts.

Mingling with gougeres

• 2007 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut 91 Points

  France, Champagne

  Lovely balance, subtle creaminess, and disappears with ease. Delicious now but to my taste will be even better with a bit more maturity.

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Turbot, cauliflower and langoustine

• NV Ulysse Collin Champagne Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut (2014) Les Pierrières 93 Points

  France, Champagne

  Really crisp and youthful, lime to the fore (but the acidity is in perfect balance), lots of drive and potential.

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• 2008 Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

  Took a while to open up but had a lovely nose with time, with crystallised fruit, smoke and later on vanilla and popcorn. Slightly savoury, with a nice chew to it and good length. Overall a good wine but poor value, and lacked the impact for a higher score.

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• 2008 Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Bouchères 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  Magnum. Slightly dusty nose as this was unfortunately a bit affected by TCA - still a nice wine, but was performing with one hand tied behind its back. That aside, this was quintessential white Burg, with a tasteful hint of oak on the nose and some attractive, refreshing citrus.

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Suckling pig tortelloni and black truffle

• 2009 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Goulots Vieille Vigne 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Didn't show particularly well tonight matched against some strongly-performing Nebbiolos; the warm, full 2009 vintage character came across a little clunky in this context. Burly and a little bit hot on the finish, but tasty with the food. Hope this isn't how the 2018s will taste in 2029.

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• 2013 Grasso Tiziano Barolo Briccolina 92 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Magnum. Intense and very bright nose. Initially quite tannic but after around 20 minutes in glass this cleared to show some gorgeous red fruit. Lovely lift to the finish.

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• 2015 Silvia Rivella Barbaresco Guido Rivella Montestefano 93 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  Magnum. Really clean and crisp, but nicely balanced by some dark, tarry chewiness. Superb finish. Young but ready to enjoy.

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• 2011 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 91 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  My first Mascarello, and a little underwhelming on tonight's showing. Ethereal, spicy nose promised great things and there was an enjoyable note of dark ginger cake, but the tannins are a bit blocky at this stage.

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Deer, hen of the woods, potato galette

• 1967 Prunotto Barolo Riserva 88 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  A touch Madeirized. There was an intense note of dried sisal grass that I found intellectually interesting, but wasn't actually tasty.

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• 1988 Luciano Sandrone Barolo 90 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Perfumed nose but to my taste slightly lean on the palate. Clean and persistent, and a note of cold coffee.

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• 1989 Gaja Barbaresco Sorì Tildìn Flawed

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  Not going to rate this one as the bottle seemed too advanced. A really deep but odd nose. Some enjoyment at first but then seemed to die after about 30 minutes, becoming flat and cheesy. Gutted!

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• 2007 Domenico Clerico Barolo Pajana 91 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Really enjoyed this, although some were of the view it was too modern. Nose was enticing and not too oaky. Fresh on the palate and with decent body and length, but perhaps a touch of over-extraction apparent on the finish.

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• 2005 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Villero 90 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Magnum. A bit thick and medicinal at this stage, but still fresh. Likely better with a few more years in bottle.

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Caramelised apple millefeuille, pain d'epice

• 2001 Château Rieussec 96 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  Just superb. Tremendous lift to both the nose and the palate. Deep marmalade, luscious cream, depth, length and breadth - fortunately able to sneak over to pour a second glass.

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• 2001 Quinta do Noval Porto Vintage Nacional 90 Points

  Portugal, Douro, Porto

  A privilege to taste this, but I'm not sure it was ready as its appeal was rather subtle. Extremely cool and drinkable, demonstrating its class and potential, but the score reflects my enjoyment on the night.

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Magnum of CC opened as a digestif, with the others mopped up together with some further chit-chat

• 2009 Lucien Le Moine Corton-Charlemagne 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

  Magnum. Really fresh, juicy and deep. A lovely rounded quality, with butter and cream. Old school and a bit 'tarty', but executed very well.

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• 2006 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut 92 Points

  France, Champagne

  Lovely poise and balance, and some delicious cream; prefer this to the 2007.

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• 2004 Cappellano Barolo Pie Franco Otin Fiorin (Gabutti) 90 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Towards the end of an epic dinner - no tasting note

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• 2001 Château Suduiraut 91 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  This is good, but I prefer the brightness and lift of the Rieussec '01

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