Beaujolais revisited with Anne McHale MW

Bojo-sceptic gives Gamay another go

• 2017 Domaine de la Rocaillère (Vincent Fontaine) Beaujolais Vieilles Vignes 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Beaujolais

  Not much on the nose - just a suggestion of red fruits. Lots of lovely fresh fruit on the palate. Balanced, refreshing, and vivacious. Some nice concentration from the old vines. A touch of slightly drying tannin. Just so drinkable - would be killer with a picnic.

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• 2018 Jean-Marc Burgaud Beaujolais-Villages Les Vignes de Lantignié 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Beaujolais-Villages

  Really perfumed, deep and juicy on the nose, with cherry pit aromas. Attractive, crunchy bitterness coming through on the palate. Wonderful fruit! Pretty long. Feels nicely ready - tannins are fine and add structure.

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• 2018 Julien Sunier Régnié 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Régnié

  Smells quite natural/volatile at first, but it fills out beautifully in glass. Incense and flowers. Pretty evident this was made with full carbonic maceration - lots of banana sweets. Quite confected, but there's a cool poise that keeps it in balance. Long intriguing finish. I almost hated this, but, er, I didn't.

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• 2018 Château Thivin Côte de Brouilly Les Griottes de Brulhié 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Côte de Brouilly

  Darker colour than many Bojos. Dusky rose, pepper and autumnal muddy earth on the nose. Lots of concentration on the palate, but so elegant too. Really long. Enchanting - and drinkable too.

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• 2018 Louis Claude Desvignes Morgon Javernières 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon

  Deep maroon colour. Big, big wine with lots of personality. Haven't had anything quite like this before. Gamay meets Syrah. Candyfloss and pepper. There's earthiness but also sweet jammy fruit. Layered and complex. Classy stuff.

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• 2009 Domaine du Granit Moulin-à-Vent La Rochelle Vieilles Vignes 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Moulin-à-Vent

  Still pretty dark to look at, but this is fully mature. Rich and rounded. Dried fruit. Like a Cote Rotie at age 25. Effortless concentration. A lightness of touch but beset with flavour. Maybe better a year or two ago though?

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Consider me a convert!