Straits Clan, Singapore
Tasted Wednesday, July 11, 2018 by Paul S with 84 views
This was a really interesting exercise, and a testament to the depths of some of our friends' cellars, to be able to put together a dinner encompassing all 9 of Gevrey-Chambertin's vineyards across one single vintage. I should say that one particular bottle - the Chapelle Chambertin - eluded us. It had to be sourced from a bottle shop in Hong Kong, and hand carried back (on the very evening of the dinner no less) by a very committed JC.
I cannot quite remember why we had a ringer (in the Lafon Volnay), or why the Mazoyeres was thrown in with Latricieres rather than with the Charmes, which would have been more natural; nor why indeed we put the Chapelle together with the Grotto, although that may have been something to do with our resident MW telling us that the topology or geology between the vineyards are similar, or something along those lines.
On a side note, it was also a good opportunity to assess the shape of the 2002 vintage some 16 years in. I have always loved the 2002 reds. At their best, they are classically shaped Burgundies in the very best sense of the word - pure, transparent wines, with delicious juicy fruit, yet also showing really nice depth and balance, and very fine tannin structures. The issue I have had is that many of the 2002s, especially on the Grand Cru level, have been asleep for some years - sometimes showing as obdurate, rather opaque or one-dimensional shadows or their former selves. Unfortunately, this tight, sleepwalking state seemed to have afflicted some of the bottles on the night. Thankfully, the quality of the wines were such that we had some really nice bottles even then.
Notes aside tough, this was a smashing night, and a very interesting experience indeed. If I learnt anything through tasting all nine terroirs together, it was that the quality of the maker still matters most in Burgundy.
2002 Pol Roger Champagne Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill 93 Points
France, Champagne
Popped and poured, this was lovely and rather surprisingly easy-going for a relatively young Churchill, but somehow just a little step behind a bottle I had a couple of years back, which had the benefit of some breathing before service. The nose here had classic notes of cream, white meat and a touch of earth alongside big white-fruited aromas and a waft of toasty brioche. The palate was big, ripe and fairly forward, with ripe red apple flavours, a touch of sweet lemonade, and some creamy notes, all couched in a gentle mousse and decent, if not exactly bright acidity. Tons of strength, lots of length - a bit obvious in its heft and girth, but this was a delicious powerhouse. I think it will get better as it mellows with time as well. I would love to try this in say 5-6 years' time.
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2002 Bruno Paillard Champagne Nec Plus Ultra 92 Points
France, Champagne
Perhaps a half-step behind a nice bottle of 2002 Winston Churchill on the night, but this was nevertheless a nice bottle in its own right. The nose had an interestingly oxidative edge to it, with an umami character showing through its aromas of white meat and earth, alongside sweeter yellow fruit notes. The palate was almost surprisingly dry and structure after that, with vigorous mousse, and bright acidity wrapped around a powerful core of yellow-fruited melons, kumquats, and a little shade of liquered notes. In spite of its power though, what stood out for me most was how linear it was and great a sense of definition the wine had, all the way into a really well-cut finished. Certainly sparer, more focused and, conversely, less generously effusive than the Winston Churchill on the night; but dare I say it - this may have been the Champagne with more character to it. With the bottle we had, I would say leave it aside for a few more years before broaching again. It should integrate better and develop a bit more complexity.
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