Dinner at Jardiniere

My wife and I attended her nephews graduation dinner with my wifes family at this restaurant last week while in San Francisco. He graduated from the California Culinary Academy and is currently working as the Garde Chef at Jardiniere. we went with the 7 course tasting menu with wine pairings. It ended up being 8 course since they brought out an introductory antipasto type course. I substituted the wines with the first 2 courses that you see below. Otherwise, the pairings were provided by the restaurant. Here are the courses, wine pairings and my tasting notes:

House made cured salume, olives, capers and cornichons. No wine pairing. Everyone just brought whatever they were drinking from the bar.

• 2006 Dönnhoff Riesling 89 Points

  Germany, Nahe

  (3/20/2008)

  This was paired with a green garlic and salsify soup garnished with a sheep's milk crostini and borage pesto. I thought the soup was a little bland but the pairing was nice. The wine was only slightly sweet. Notes of fresh cut apple and pears. This had a refreshing minerality and a lively body. Solid acidity. 89 points.

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• 2005 Franz Hirtzberger Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Axpoint 90 Points

  Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau

  (3/20/2008)

  Paired with an endive and arugala salad with chopped beets, spiced almonds and piave vecchio cheese. This wine threw me a little because I tried it after the Donnhoff and it was much drier. As a result came off as lacking fruit at first. However, once my palate adjusted, this was an excellent wine. My pairing was acceptable. However, the others would paired this with their seared Rhode Island black bass raved about the pairing. Bone dry and dripping with minerality. Piercing acidity. Chalky character with white fruit and citrus notes. This wine is much better with 4-5 years on it. I liked the 1999 that I had in 2004 better. The 2004 that I had at the winery was comparable. 90-91 points.

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• 2005 Remoissenet Père et Fils Bourgogne Blanc Renommée 87 Points

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc

  (3/21/2008)

  This was paired with Potato Gnocchi with Perigold truffles over creme fraiche. A round wine for being so young. Good purity. Not as much fruit as expected but I detected apple, citrus and hazelnut. Some oak treatment here. I was not thrilled with this pairing but then this is oaked Chardonnay so what do you expect. 87 points.

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• 2004 Harmonique Pinot Noir Delicace 90 Points

  USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley

  (3/21/2008)

  This was paired with Liberty Farms Duck breast, Seared Foie Gras, Farro, Lucques olives, and rhubarb sauce with vanilla salts on the Foie. The match with the duck breast was excellent. The foie match was subpar. Don't quite understand why they put the duck and foie on the same plate. Would have been much better as seperate courses with a Sauternes or Tokaji to pairing for the foie. I liked this pinot though. Rose red color. Creamy texture with an earthy core of fruit. Old world style. Notes of black fruit, charcoal and liquid smoke. 89-90 points.

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• 2003 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Fontalloro 90 Points

  Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

  (3/21/2008)

  This was paired with Colorado lamb loin, Ricotta dumpling, braised greens (mustard and collard), and olive jus. I liked this match. This Supertuscan is 100% Sangiovese. A dry wine. Medium bodied with black cherry notes and solid acidity which made it very food friendly. An outstanding wine but not as good as the top notch 1986, 1999 and 2000 bottlings. The equal of the 2001 in my opinion. 90 points.

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• NV Blandy's Madeira Malmsey 10 Years Old 88 Points

  Portugal, Madeira

  (3/21/2008)

  This was paired with Pecorino Foglie Di Noci, toasted walnuts, truffle honey and baguette. They also brought out 4 bonus cheeses on the house for this cheese course. This was a nice wine but I simply do not prefer sweet wines with my cheese course. Would have preferred a bold red here. The Malmsey had notes of almonds and carmel and was rather sweet. 88 points.

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• NV Veuve Clicquot Champagne Demi-Sec 89 Points

  France, Champagne

  (3/21/2008)

  This was paired with dessert of Lemon tart, Fromage Blanc Sherbet and Thyme. I thought the extra sweetness in this sparkler was appropriate. Pairing it with dessert made it taste drier than it actually was. Good bead. Crisp with lush citrus notes. 89 points.

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