Two 2006 Aussie Shiraz at home

Drunk side-by-side over three evenings, during which neither wine changed much

• 2006 Penfolds Shiraz Bin 28 Kalimna 89 Points

  Australia, South Australia

  Under cork. Good ruby with a touch of garnet. A bouquet of red and damson plums, crème de cassis, milk chocolate, vanilla ice cream and new leather. On palate, thicker and looser than the Glaetzer. Ripe, rich and unctuous. Meatier and more jammy than, and without the acidity and focus of, the Glaetzer. In fact, somewhat lacking in freshness and acidity. Plums, cherries and chocolate. The moderately high alcohol (14.5% ABV) well hidden by the dense fruit. Smooth tannins but some oak derived vanilla notes. No great detail or complexity. I really doubt this wine will improve with more cellar time. Drink soon, by say 2024.

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• 2006 Glaetzer Shiraz Amon-Ra Barossa Valley 92 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley

  Under cork. Colour deeper, more purple-red than the Penfolds. Unfiltered, it threw a lot of sediment in decanting. Fresh aromatics - cedar, black cherry and some blueberry and boysenberry, vanilla pod and red liquorice. Dashes of black pepper and dark spices. Like the Penfolds, quite rich and opulent. Yet fresher and finer. Richer than the Penfolds, yet more precise, better focussed. Decent acidity but ideally I would have liked more. Black cherries, blackberries, dark chocolate, black plums and mochaccino. Lacking the nuance, layers and detail for a higher score. Tannic grip now loosened. Fine grained tannins. A little alcoholic burn on the moderately long finish (14.5% ABV). A good Syrah - with a little French Syrah character beside the Penfolds' Aussie Shiraz character. As with the Penfolds, I do not expect it to improve more with time. To drink by say 2028.

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