A Mixed Bag of Burgundies

Drunk with convivial company and casual, informal small dishes.

Whites

• 2005 Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Yellow with a touch of green. Ripe nose with melon and a little honey. Full bodied but nice tension between the excellent fruit and bitter edge of minerality and acidity. Big for Chablis, very good but simple and lacks elegance.

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• 2001 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  A tone lighter than the '05 Brocard Clos that preceded it. Very different nose with marked florality and high toned distillate like a Chartreuse or Grappa. Fresh, elegant, and taut without coming across as austere with classic Chablis structure. Not a hint of the wood that I found so offputting the last time-maybe I was mistaking oxidation for toasty oak. Perhaps not of Grand Cru weight or length, but very enjoyable nonetheless.

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• 1996 Marc Colin et Fils Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru La Garenne Flawed

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

  Not without underlying richness or interest, but clearly oxidized.

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• 1990 Paul Chapelle & ses Filles Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs-Gain Flawed

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

  Corked.

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• 1992 Paul Chapelle & ses Filles Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Hameau de Blagny

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

  Healthy, medium yellow color. Very toasty aroma, but surprisingly fresh and vibrant. Has held up quite well. Wood treatment is heavy handed though. OK.

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Reds

• 2001 Domaine Lignier-Michelot Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Les Faconnières

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru

  Medium color with fading. Medicinal cherry and evergreen nose. Some effervescence on the palate, chunky, simple dark fruit. Rather diffuse, poorly defined flavors. Previous bottles have been better than this. No reason to wait any longer.

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• 1996 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Clos Vougeot

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru

  Medium ruby tone with desaturation at rim. Big wine with prominently stemmy aromatics. Not brutally acidic, but the fruit doesn't really sweeten that much over time. Clearly very young and awkward right now, but not one that I would personally bet on given its lean, green structure.

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• 1988 Louis Jadot Bonnes Mares

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

  Light-medium ruby with paler edges. This smells like refined, aged Pinot! Hard to pick out any dominant element. Very poised, elegant, medium weight wine that has developed subtle secondary nuances and a seamless palate feel. Has just a touch of the underlying '88 harsh structure remaining, but much better than most in its harmonious feel. Not a trace of wood. Great purity, unadorned and understated style--recent vintage Jadot Bonnes Mares are much more asseritive.

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Nothing truly great tonight, but an interesting array of wines. The favorites were the Fevre (a terrific wine that transcended its vintage) and the Jadot.