Terroir-istes International - France, Bordeaux 1996 Vintage

Rodwell House
Tasted Monday, February 2, 2009 by rikipedia with 119 views

Introduction

A look at the Left Bank 1996 vintages against a few South African examples with an older wild card thrown in!

Flight 1 - 1996 St. Julien & a Haut Medoc (5 Notes)

  • 1996 Château Cantemerle 86 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc

    Medium Garnet to orange rim.
    A soft nose with warm, ripe boysenberries, cigar box, marmite and brown spices
    More intense on entry with a supple, open-knit, rather pleasant style - I picked up very little acidity yet the wine isn't flabby. There is some tertiary evolution with more marmite and meat stock noted, but the texture is soft with pencil shavings and blackcurrant notes. The tannins have some width yet feel supple and accessible. With a long finish, there is a warm richness on the aftertaste.

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  • 1996 Château Lagrange (St. Julien) 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    Mid garnet to a thin orange rim. Intense nose filled with tinned fruit, spice, pot pourri and black fruits. Similar to the previous wine, there is an openness to the palate with soft fruit cake, black currant yoghurt and cassis. A dry, and still full-bodied style, the wine is balanced by a high green acidic kick making the wine slightly off-balance. Despite this, there is plenty of flesh to cover the more austere tannin structure, a clarity almost cool mint to the mid-palate and great complexity. The finish is long with some aged beef, black fruits and good depth of flavour.

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  • 1996 Château Léoville Barton 88 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    Medium garnet to an orange rim.
    The nose accentuates more mint and sandalwood than cedar or cigar and bears some black fruits.
    Medium-bodied, the entry is subtle and slightly closed with notes of marmite, wafer biscuit and cigar box. The texture is soft and approachable (even slightly sweet perhaps), round in the mid-palate but lacks some depth. Balanced by a lively integrated acidity, more cucumber acid than lemon. Despite its lighter weight, the Merlot adds a little more richness to make this 1996 very accessible.

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  • 1996 Château Léoville Poyferré 87 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    A bouquet of saddle leather, liquorice with black fruit yet possible Brett issues as well. Some smoke, meat and wildness confirm.
    On the entry, the fruit appears quite subdued, leaning more to marmite, meat and some chalky tannins. Overall, the palate lacks balance with a lively acidity that lifts, little fruit to balance and then a dry bitterness on the back palate. Didn't really improve in the glass either. Slightly bacterial?

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  • 1996 Château Gruaud Larose 87 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    A deep to almost opaque ruby colour that graduates to a wider orange rim - contrasting!. Plenty of tertiary notes make up the bouquet including truffle, forest floor, mushrooms, game and meat stock.
    A lively acidity that turns soft and supple in the mid-palate, showing flavours of dry biscuits, mushroom and cigar box. a touch of black fruit peeks out. Rather open-knit texture showing a Merlot richness, the wine is more light to medium bodied than with gentle supple tugging tannins and a medium finish. Enjoyable without wowing.

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Flight 2 - 1996 St. Estephe (3 Notes)

  • 1996 Château Lafon-Rochet 88 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

    Deep garnet colour going to an orange rim.
    A penetrating nose filled with ripe blackcurrants, black fruit yoghurt and brambles.
    A richly textured wine with blackcurrant and blackberry, touch of sea salt and possessing a dense structural frame. The wine is muscular and powerful, and the tannin seems a little foursquare, and firm and adds dryness to the back palate. Impressive more than accommodating, the wine is just a little challenging even a little leathery.

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  • 1996 Château Cos d'Estournel 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

    A bouquet of earth, cedar, truffle and mushroom with a lovely intensity behind it.
    A broad fruit spectrum balanced by lively acidity and fine-grained tannins. Full-bodied, the wine has an amazing depth of flavour with a core of black fruit and persistent length. There is a mineral, saline edge, enough fruit to provide material, a sprinkle of peppercorns, and pencil lead. A smart wine!

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  • 1996 Château Lynch-Bages 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    A subdued nose that slowly releases whiffs of chocolate, pressed red flowers, ripe blackcurrant, mineral and cigar box.
    Medium-bodied, the texture is soft and round initially but builds to a more soft mineral, silky but then crushed velvet tannins that gives a beautiful lightweight structure to the wine. The mineral is that touch of lemon acidity but the wine stays its course with some Pauillac lead pencil, more linear frame that leads to a long finish. A fresh and lingering wine that I really enjoyed if perhaps a little compact and tighter than expected.

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Flight 3 - Pauillac & 2 S. African wines (1 Note)

Only the Lynch Bages was tasted against a Stellenbosch 1996 and a wild card from 1974 also South African

  • 1974 Nederburg Cabernet Sauvignon 84 Points

    South Africa, Coastal Region, Paarl

    Brown/garnet to wide orange rim with sediment. Resinous aromas with caramel, plasticine and swimming pool chemicals. Old, ripe fruit, some power with a rum and raisin ice cream. High tone with a sweet vinosity. A Curio

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