Piemonte Wimps

The most amazing duck roll things.

• 2016 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Served from Magnum. On the nose, a whiff of struck match, silage. Pale lemon colour. On the tongue, bit of a spritz. Very sweet - someone mentioned sherbet pips, which i got, and a hint of creaminess. I really want to like this kind of wine but struggle to do so - hopefully continued exposure will work...

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A great transplant from the glasshouse is a vegan, cauliflower based starter. A victory.

• 2018 Heinrich Mayr (Nusserhof) Blaterle Bianco

  Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Vino da Tavola

  Lovely stuff with a fascinating story - evidently this is a somewhat rare indigenous grape variety whose name is not permitted to be printed on the label. Medium pale yellow. On the palate - someone described it as "weight without heft" and I thought that was very fair. Some body here for sure, but it's elevated - vibrant without being too acidic. Lovely stuff and I will look out for it again.

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• 2018 Giuseppe Nada Langhe Bianco "Armonia"

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC

  My extra wine - brought due to a slight mix up in the listings and kindly served due to an excess of generosity on the part of the restaurant. Perfectly decent wine - I believe a blend including indigenous varieties but I also sense a bit of sauv blanc. Told far less of an interesting story than its flight mate however, and I didn't finish my glass.

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• 2010 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  Served from magnum. On opening - tightly coiled, and could maybe even be described as foursquare. Opened up, what seemed like rusticity or clumsiness started to unfurl - this has years ahead of it but a jolly decent wine.

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• 2010 Giuseppe Nada Barbaresco Riserva Casot

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  Looks older than the preceding wine, more bricking around the rim. And almost went in the opposite direction - on opening, clearly more perfumed, more elegant, but seemed to somewhat fall apart at the end - like a guitarist attempting a complex solo and not quite being able to pull it off. With some air, became more together. I have a few bottles left and will endeavour to drink them in the next year or two - but still more than pleasurable.

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• 2011 Gaja Langhe Nebbiolo Sperss

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC

  It would be both trite and damning with faint praise to say that this is the Hegelian synthesis of the flight. Really lovely stuff - a hint of plushness perhaps, but in the classiest way. Fragrant - a hint of, maybe blueberries - and a length on the palate. A treat to drink at this lunch, and (perhaps along with the Mayr) a wine that would benefit from being contemplated over the course of an evening.

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I often feel that choosing fillet in a restaurant is a waste, as it's so easy to cook well at home. There are some circumstances under which this is wrong - this was absolutely lovely in every way.

• 2008 Marcarini Barolo La Serra

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Just what I imagine barolo to be. Purple colour with a little bricking. On the palate - tar, cherry stone. There is some fruit under the structure but it must be sought out.

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• 2004 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Cannubi

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  On the nose, forest floor, just a hint of complexity. Very clean palate - clearly barolo but more resolved, more ready to share its pleasures than the previous bottle. On swirling around the mouth this really came into focus - a wine definitely worthy of contemplation - certainly one could imagine drinking this slowly over the course of a few hours and enjoying seeing its progress.

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• 2004 Fratelli Brovia Barolo

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  A slightly burned, pruney flavour which I found to be faulty. Some interesting discussion at the table as my fellow diners did not perceive this - is there perhaps a specific compound to which I am uniquely sensitive (as some are to brett or TCA)? I recall having a case of halves of some 98 St Emilion which I thought had a similar fault, but a friend loved so...perhaps I learned something more about myself than I did about wine with this one.
  
  We were also offered a glass of the 98, which I did enjoy, and had none of that characteristic.
  
  My apologies to my fellow diners, who heard my opinions on this wine shared more loudly and often than was required.

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