EL Birthday Dinner

Began with some golden ostera caviar and the chef's canape

• 1996 Krug Champagne Clos du Mesnil 96 Points

  France, Champagne

  This was a freakin' frozen rope. It came out with a bang and didn't stop delivering. Great energy. Great salinity, creating just that touch of salt on a perfect piece of bread. This wine did not have bread notes - there was no fat or flab here, just a little nuttiness to make you swoon. I have been underwhelmed by many 96 champagnes, but this did not disappoint.

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• 1983 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon 95 Points

  France, Champagne

  I am a sucker for 80s Dom. Came out of the bottle a little awkward, but once it settled in the glass it revealed my favorite, honey-roasted almond flavors. Good effervescence for almost 40 years in the bottle. And this was just a p1! Next to the 96 Krug Mesnil it didn't have the energy, but really delicious.

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• 1983 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Rosé Brut 91 Points

  France, Champagne

  Good character. Felt a little in between stages of development. The nose was muted, not giving much of an experience. On the palate it was much better. Drank more like a still wine.

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Here we had the yellowfin Tuna dish as well as the Bucatini dish. The pasta was the highlight, combining the guanciale with the squid ink sauce.

• 1983 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet 97 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

  Effing amazing. 2nd time drinking this wine in less than a month and it consistently delivers. Deep. Floral. Delicious.

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• 1982 Coche-Dury Meursault 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

  At first, I thought this was just past its prime. A fine wine where all the good bits have faded leaving a simple wine behind. Evan mentioned this vintage is maybe a little Sauterne-like? I could see it; it has some botrytis to it so maybe that is what took over? Z said the advice she received was to let it open in the glass. That was good advice. The wine expanded a lot over a couple of hours and show greater dimensionality. I think its best years have past, but it showed quality.

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• 1990 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Blanchot 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Served blind next to the 83 Leflaive BM and the 82 Coche Dury Meursault. Obviously Chablis. Obviously Raveneau. Many questions on age.
  
  Looks young in the glass. Drinks young but doesn't have the intensity that is off-putting for me with most Chablis. The flavors had room to show and they were a good mix of citrus and honey. The length was amazing.
  
  I guessed late 90s. No one guessed early 90s or 90. Impressive bottle

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Another round of caviar, this time the kaluga, with roasted arctic char. Also a roasted dover sole with perfectly browned skin.

• 1999 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru

  This was a little disappointing. It had a one-note vanilla profile that wasn't very interesting. It wasn't bad but wasn't the vaunted experience I am used to. The weakest DRC Monty I've ever had.

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• 2001 Coche-Dury Meursault 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

  Very good, basically textbook Coche Meursault. Had the requisite matchstick on the nose, good Meursault roundness and that magic Coche weight to it. Didn't offer more than that though so I put it below the 1995 Coche MP.

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• 1995 Coche-Dury Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 97 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  Holy moly. This was cracking. Served next to 99 DRC Monty and 01 Coche Dury Meursault. The color was a pale green-yellow next to glasses of gold. It felt perfect. The finish was impossibly long. It was both generous with flavor and deliciousness will not losing crispness. Acidity still strong. Didn't fade.

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Dry aged black angus with the duo of braised beef cheek and strip loin.

• 1983 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin-Clos de Bèze 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru

  A good bottle with a solid amount of life. Found the nose somewhat muted but the fruit on the palate was nice. It had earthiness but didn't give up on quality of the texture. Very easy to drink but wasn't the most compelling wine in front of me.

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• 1982 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin 95 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru

  A cut about the 83 Beze. Everything was dialed up relative to the Beze: the nose much more inviting and calming, the fruit had a strong core of aged cherry with a little smokiness that was haunting. Really delicious.

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• 1983 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Grands-Echezeaux 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru

  The nose was so DRC. It jumped out of the glass with a high pitch and strong attitude. You couldn't miss it. This needs much more time. Unlike the other bottles that were somewhere towards the middle/end of their window, I felt like we are at the very beginning here. Noticeable structure and tannins. Roundness just starting. Give this time.

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• 1988 Domaine Dujac Clos St. Denis 96 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos St. Denis Grand Cru

  WOTN? A really complete wine. Great balance. Endless finish. People at the table, who've had this wine recently, noted how great this particular bottle showed. They weren't kidding. The wine is so soft and light but without lightness in color or thinness on the palate. The benefits of whole cluster on full display here. Really delicious.

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Chocolate, chocolate cake, and raisin whole wheat bread (I think I ate the whole loaf)

• 1983 Château d'Yquem 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  Great end to the night (drank out of 750). The color is golden and pure. Not too sweet. Not too viscous. Really elegant.

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Missing from these notes:
3 blinds
- 83 Angerville Clos Des Ducs
- 83 Pousse D'Or
- 80 Mugneret Clos Vougeot

Madeira
- 1907 D'Oliviera