Visit to Azienda Agricola Giacomo Fenocchio

A associate and I visited with Claudio Fenocchio whose wines I have really admired but only got to know well in the last several years. We spent nearly 2 hours walking though their recently expanded and updated facility. We barrel sampled numerous wines (from Dolcetto, Barbera and Nebbiolo) including the new 2022 vintage. Unfortunately walking around the cellar and barrel room with glasses in hand made taking detailed notes impossible until we sat down for just a couple bottled Barolo but the experience was a pleasure which we thank Claudio for the generous use of his time. The 2022 vintage while very hot and extremely dry looks to have turned out rather well actually though not likely to be up to the level of the 2019 and 2021 vintages which are looking like really great wines for the cellar, though a step below the 2016 vintage of the century so far.

One of the most interesting discussions we had was regarding his Riservas which he macerates for 90 days. When When we suggested that it might over extract and add excessive tannin to the wine, he argued that in fact it does the opposite and actually naturally fines the wine by allowing more of the solids to fall out of the wine and [promotes polymerization of the tannins which also fall out when it is racked and eventually bottled. Upon tasting three vintages of the Riserva from large casks it was hard to ague with his conclusion.

• 2019 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo 90 dì Riserva Bussia 97 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  This was a barrel sample among numerous tried with Claudio Fenocchio at the winery without taking specific notes, so from memory… this is amazingly complex and delicious. Fragrant on the nose with obvious porcini, truffle and balsamic. Rich on the palate with a very savory profile with the addition of dark black cherry and some black raspberry notes in addition to the porcini, balsamic and truffle flavors. Very deep and complex. This was fermented (from spontaneous native yeast) and macerated over 90 days in temperature controlled stainless steel and will see a total of nearly 3 years in large Slavonic oak botte before expected bottling in December 2023 and not likely to reach the market until early spring 2025. This is a beauty I must get when available!

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• 2020 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo 90 dì Riserva Bussia

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  This was among several barrel samples we tried with Claudio Fenocchio on a visit to the winery. I was unable to take detailed notes so this is from memory… His Riserva comes from the Bussia Vineyard and sees a 90 day(!) spontaneous native fermentation and subsequent maceration in stainless steel. It then sees nearly 4 years in large Slavonic oak botte before bottling and then staying at least year in bottle before release. This wine was quite soft and still somewhat primary and drew a rather concerned expression from Claudio as we tasted it. It was not a bad wine with just lacked any real unique expression. He is uncertain that he will end up bottling a riserva in 2020 and I would bet not. This will likely be blended back into the 2020 Bussia cru or the normale/classico when it is bottled.

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• 2021 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo 90 dì Riserva Bussia

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  This was among numerous barrel samples we tried with Claudio Fenocchio on a visit to the winery. I was unable to take detailed notes so this is from memory… His Riserva comes from the Bussia Vineyard and sees a 90 day(!) spontaneous native fermentation and subsequent maceration in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. It then sees nearly 3 years in large Slavonic oak botte before bottling and then staying at least a year in bottle before release. So this wine will not likely see the market until 2027. It will be a beauty! It is still primary but Claudio is quite proud of this already and we could see why. It has great texture and plenty of acidity along with broad fine grained tannins all supporting a lovely base of fruit. As one would expect at this stage in its development there isn’t a great deal of the complexity showing as in the 2019 but time should serve this well.

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• 2019 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Cannubi

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  This was among numerous barrel samples we tried with Claudio Fenocchio on a visit to the winery. I was unable to take detailed notes so this is from memory… I have to admit that despite the Cannubi Vineyard’s reputation I often don’t find myself preferring this cru to many other distinguished vineyards in Barolo or Barbaresco. This has a very broad palate and nice texture but it didn’t excite me and seemed somewhat oak influenced despite its aging only in large Slavonian oak botte and its fermentation (spontaneous native yeast) and maceration (~30 days) in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. It is certainly a wine with a lot going on but seemed a little less focused for me than the other cru’s. This is expected to be bottled quite soon (December 2022) and available in the market in 2023.

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• 2019 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Castellero

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  This was among numerous barrel samples we tried with Claudio Fenocchio on a visit to the winery. I was unable to take detailed notes so this is from memory… This underwent spontaneous fermentation with native yeast and macerated for ~30 days in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks before racking to large Slavonian oak botte. This was really lovely, very precise and elegant. Fresh with bright acidity and polished tannins and a nice balanced texture/mouthfeel. Long and it seemed rather feminine to me. Quite a beautiful wine that should age well.

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• 2019 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Villero

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  This was among numerous barrel samples we tried with Claudio Fenocchio on a visit to the winery. I was unable to take detailed notes so this is from memory… This underwent spontaneous fermentation with native yeast and macerated for ~30 days in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks before racking to large Slavonian oak botte. This will be bottled shortly (December 2022) I always seem to love this cru from Fenocchio. It showed great depth and broad texture with some dense mineral support in addition to the acidity and tannin. Balanced fruit and nice floral elements on the nose. Top Notch with good aging potential!

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• 2019 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Bussia

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  This was among numerous barrel samples we tried with Claudio Fenocchio on a visit to the winery. I was unable to take detailed notes so this is from memory… This underwent spontaneous fermentation with native yeast and macerated for ~30 days in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks before racking to large Slavonian oak botte. This was really lovely! Supremely balanced with everything in the right place and a rich layer of fruit in the mid-palate and finish which was really very long and luscious. Great structure and aging potential.

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• 2018 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Cannubi 92 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Tasted with Claudio Fenocchio at the winery on the Bussia Hillside. Medium to dark translucent garnet. Fragrant with roses, spice and red fruit on the nose. Round and savory on the palate yet structured for reasonable aging. Long finish. Very balanced and elegant with excellent terroir and pure varietal expression.

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• 2014 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Villero 92 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Tasted with Claudio Fenocchio at the winery on the Bussia Hillside. This much maligned vintage was drinking quite well. It showed as a light to medium translucent garnet color. The nose was quite fragrant for not very floral, rather more earthy and spicy with nice mineral undertones notably some charcoal in my perception. Given the vintage the tannins were not aggressive and the acidity while bright was not overly tart. Rich and chewy on the palate with distinct cherry but more savory overall. Fairly evolved and less bright than most everything we tasted today but balanced well enough and quite ready to enjoy.

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Claudio’s attention to detail and traditional winemaking style come through loud and clear with these wines. No new oak and gentle natural, mostly organic processes (though he is not certified or an absolutist about it) in the vineyard and cellar make for very clear varietal expression in all of the wines.