La Festa del Barolo: Rare Wine Dinner - Bartolo Mascarello

One of my favorite producers in Piedmont and so a real treat to get to try these going so far back. I blown away by the second flight and so surprised to see that the later flights held their own as well.

All of the wines were served in magnum and there were back-ups of all of the bottles. Alas I did not grab the sheet with the breakdown of the meal but overall I would say Legacy Records did an exceptional job with the food - esp a few of the pastas - and I found myself finishing items I hadn’t meant to.

A wine to get us started and the palates whetted. Fun to try something a bit different.

• 2016 Bartolo Mascarello Langhe Nebbiolo

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC

  The pre-dinner sipper. Usually this would be a champagne but this was a fun surprise especially as you don’t see the Langhe Nebbiolo that often and very often it’s relatively marked up. This is still drinking on the young side of things. Bright and red fruits and lighter bodied and easy in style.

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The ‘in-betweeners’ which don’t quite have the age to make them really stand out but nor do that have that new finesse in approach that comes later in the winemaking. Still very enjoyable wines, but I was impressed with how Antonio did the flights. Not how I would have thought about it but it certainly worked.

• 2001 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  From a magnum. Interesting because when this wine was first poured my initial impression was it was older than its years and time to drink up (and quickly). With some time in the glass though that blew off and then it was quite a nice wine - all red fruits and rose hips and the power and elegance of the wine shows through. Very pretty wine.

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• 1999 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  From a magnum. This was the only wine of the tasting that seemed like it was just a bit off to me. Not corked per se, but not a perfect bottle. It happens. It’s a bit older than its years and it never quite softens from that. There’s a background of mustiness. Underneath it can see some of the nice wine, but with so many other great ones at the table this wasn’t a focus.

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• 1996 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  From a magnum. Probably my favorite of the first flight. This was very nice. Darker fruits and almost a hint of licorice and then a bit of sweetness. Very well integrated and just overall drinking great.

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Basically the rocking 80’s plus one 90. This worked well and initially had me wondering if we were going to go backwards when we got to some of the younger wines. It was a risk but it worked out.

• 1990 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  From a magnum. Nice style of wine. Darker fruits. A bit more of the leather and tannins and very much present with the secondary and maybe even getting into some tertiary notes. Still a lovely wine.

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• 1989 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  From a magnum. A favorite at the tasting for a number of people. Really soft and gentle and initially doesn’t quite stand out as much as some of the others here (the 82 was particularly rocking). This was more quiet and perhaps a touch muted but in that there seemed to be some elegance to the style.

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• 1988 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  From a magnum. The nose is a bit off but the palate is really quite nice. A bit of a juicy style of wine. Darker red fruits. Very round in style. Not quite at the level as some others in the flight but still an enjoyable wine.

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• 1985 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  From a magnum. One of the top wines of this flight. This was drinking very well. Very clear in style, darker fruits, a bit of blackberry and then maybe some brambles. But fresh and holding up nicely.

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• 1982 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  I think my favorite wine of the second flight. This was drinking really well. There’s depth and class and style and structure to this wine.

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The early days of Marie Therese. Lots of great wines in here and lots of showing of the potential. You can see how things went up a bit.

• 2008 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  From a magnum. This wine really surprised me. It’s just straight up beautiful. One of my favorites of the whole tasting less because it’s truly ready right now, but instead because of what the potential is. Dark black fruits, a kindof deep sweetness like very ripe berries, very pretty and just this great elegance and lightness and yet there’s so much flavor packed behind it all. A very enjoyable wine.

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• 2006 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  From a magnum. Again very classic in style. Fresh. Bright. Darker fruits. It’s a lovely wine who’s only transgression is it fell right after the ‘08 which was a truly stunning wine.

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• 2005 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  From a magnum. This is a wine built for the long run. I have in my notes that it may last forever. It’s lovely and fresh in style. The first vintage that Marie Therese did on her own (although before she had a chance to start implementing some of her changes like new barrels, etc.). Dark and yet lively.

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• 2004 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  From a magnum. Very interesting to compare the last wine that was a collaboration between father and daughter with the first wine that was the daughter only (this was the collaboration). It doesn’t quite have the liveliness that you see in the others in the flight. There’s a weightless elegance that she captures or a lift that isn’t quite in this wine. Not clear how the longevity will go on this one although there is some evolution in the glass and it starts to open up with some time.

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The most recent vintages which is funny to have in the second to last flight. Some great ones in here as well although all need more time.

• 2016 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  From a magnum. Reminds me a lot of the ‘08 in style. A bit of sweetness and lovely fruit and very classic and pretty in style. Lightly floral. It holds together very nicely. Much too young at the moment, but there’s a lot to like here and it’s still approachable.

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• 2013 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  I’m not sure I’m totally sold on 2013 despite a lot of love from others on it. It is much more austere in style. Lighter bodied. Missing some of that depth and power that I like in the ‘16 and the ‘08 (and the ‘10).

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• 2010 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  From a magnum. Really good. Sweeter black fruits, very well structured. It’s still young in style although relatively accessible. Just missing those secondary notes or more of that full integrated impression. Quite lovely though as a wine. Will just keep getting better.

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The killer flight because even if the winemaking is evolved when you get a great bottle with 60+ years its hard to match it. That 1958 was so completely on. Really a special treat to get to try it.

• 1978 Cantina Mascarello Barolo

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Madeirized in style. It’s got that oxidation and a bit of a sherry-like bit to it. Some old leather. It’s interesting but not as compelling as some others.

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• 1964 Cantina Mascarello Barolo

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  From a magnum. I did not take very detailed notes on this. It was getting towards the end of the night and this was right next to the 58 which absolutely bowled me over and so this got a bit less focus. It’s a good wine per my notes but not at the level of the ‘55 or ‘58

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• 1958 Cantina Mascarello Barolo Cannubi

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  From a magnum. This was just unbelievable stunning. It’s spice and fruit and vibrant and bright and really surprising to think that this has 60+ years of life because it is going very strongly. Really drinking great. Don’t get confused by the label. They always said Cannubi but it is the same blend that Bartolo Mascarello has always done. Just used Cannubi since that was the most famous of the vineyards but this is still a blend. Ironically some of that Cannubi parcel was a trade from some mediocre vineyards in Barolo proper where a farmer wanted to consolidate his holdings and so gave a 1 for 1 trade of acreage.

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• 1955 Cantina Mascarello Barolo Cannubi

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  From a magnum. Also a truly great wine and honestly if not for the stunning style of the ‘58 this could easily be a WOTN in most company. The biggest difference is the impression of depth they each give. The 58 feels like it’s layers upon layers where here I feel like I can see to the bottom. Still bright and lovely and still with the fruits and spices but just a bit less evolution as drinking. Great wine though.

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After dinner drinks at the bar at Legacy Records. Not entirely clear that extra wine was needed but it is nice to spend some time with old friends and make new ones at these events and some of the best time is at these sessions.

• 2015 Agrapart Champagne Grand Cru Vénus Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  Off the wine list at Legacy Records. It’s late in the evening that was a big evening and I wasn’t taking detailed notes at this point. Still, this had that sharpness that I associate with Agrapart. Lots of minerality. Strong edges. It almost needs a bit of time to readjust to the style and then it can be very compelling.

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• 2017 Savart Champagne Premier Cru Le Mont des Chrétiens

  France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru

  From a magnum off the list at Legacy Records. Always nice to end an evening with bubbles. This is a favorite producer for me and not a wine that I see around quite as much but quite tasty. More in the herbal and while always more brut in style just slightly softer edges than the Agrapart.

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The 58 was the clear WOTN for me but it was interesting to see how split the group was across all of the different wines and even the different decades. I also had a takeaway that I should be getting more ‘08s from Piedmont. They seem to drink really well. And certainly this is a producer to continue to look out for as Marie Therese’s wines are only getting better and perhaps even improving a bit upon the heritage of the cellar.

Overall a truly successful evening. While I didn’t capture the food it was quite wonderful as well.