Syrah Young and Old

What a fun dinner - the charcuterie and sausages were superb, and the company was wonderful.

• 2017 Elise Dechannes Champagne Brut Nature "Absolue Terre"

  France, Champagne

  Served blind. Dark colour - one could almost imagine a pale rose. The colour made me expect something pretty oxidative but it was not to be - fine bubbles, nice acidity, I enjoyed it and it passed the Roederer Collection Test. Evidently this is a Pinot noir based wine, and is aged in earthenware…who knew? Worth pointing out that opinion was divided with our host being far from a fan.

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• 2007 Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile

  France, Alsace

  The nose - oomph. Cut grass and citrus and so much going on. Will the palate spoil things? No! Lovely acidity, still lively but the acids are in line and there’s an almost richness to it. Sone discussion at the table - evidently these can be a lottery with premature advancement or even out and out pox. We had a winning ticket with this one. I think my #2 wotn.

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• 2020 Mickaël Bourg Cornas Les P'tits Bouts

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas

  Heavy Metal bands from Stoke on Trent don’t make wine labels - but if they did, they’d make this one. Fab nose - a fellow diner described it as “young Syrah” - factually accurate of course but there’s more here, some zip, sone excitement. I’d previously though of Bourg as having a kind of New Allemand character - it’s true but there’s more here, maybe a kind of broadness? This is drinking great now but has such a life ahead of it.

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• 2020 Domaine Georges Vernay Côte-Rôtie Blonde du Seigneur

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  Compared to the cornas which preceded it - more adult, more balanced - like a sequined velvet cushion. Enjoyable now but if I had a bottle I’d be leaving it for some time.

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• 2017 Mickaël Bourg Cornas Les P'tits Bouts

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas

  Somehow a little less punk than the last time it tasted. Someone said it faded in the mouth - I didn’t find this at all, far from it. After a bit of time - and sausages - it became more compelling - definitely top 2-3 red for me…

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• 2017 Domaine Georges Vernay Côte-Rôtie Blonde du Seigneur

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  A hint of reduction on the nose - a lovely wine underneath but of all the youngsters, the grumpiest.

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• 2020 Graeme & Julie Bott Kāmaka

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes

  Served blind. Super engaging nose and a palate that is just much more open and ready to go than the preceding reds. I wrote “quirky” but not in a natty way, more like a surprisingly hummable sparks song. Another surprise to hear that it fits the 17 or 20 theme - instinctively feels it must be older but doesn’t have the same character as the other 17s. It was also revealed that this is a meager 12.5% abv - my goodness. Behind the 17 Bourg in terms of the excitement and pleasure it’s giving today, but my goodness this is decent stuff. A six pack duly ordered.

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• 1991 Noël Verset Cornas

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas

  Served blind. Just to look at it you can see it’s older - bricking on the rim. The nose talks of gentle decay - still sone fruit there, some vigour, but a hint of silage perhaps and earthy dark notes - it just pulls you in, the vaguest hint of warning that the palate may disappoint - that this may have fallen apart. Has it? Not a bit of it - still vibrant, some fruit, a kind of late stage freshness, along with the classic “old wine” character. A fellow diner described this as a wonderful old person and this was spot on - charming and experienced and you overlook the occasional misstep because the stories are so wonderful, and you know if you don’t pay full attention right now you may never get the chance to again. Im my notebook I wrote “like a power chord on a Les Paul through a fender twin reverb turned up too loud” - in the sober light of morning I stand by every word. A privilege to taste this.

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• 2018 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie Côte Brune

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  Served blind alongside the 91 Verset - I didn’t pay it any attention at all until the older wine was all gone - and if I’m honest, I didn’t pay it any attention until my senses were already quite diminished. With that said - real structure there, crunchy tannins and a certain liveliness. With air and cheese it opened up - another treat in an evening of lovely treats.

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The youngsters were really impetuous teenagers, full of life and energy but not yet fully formed. Really good event but no rush to drink any of these wines (except your 91 Versets - they are ready...)